broncoman6524
1/2 ton status
I recently built a 77 k20 for my senior project, while my DD had been a 84 K5. I don't need three vehicles (also have POS ranger...Parts runner
) so I decided to build the K5 with the k20 parts, the K5 is more sealed, and reliable.
The two trucks had these before I started.
K5- GM350,th400,np208. 10bolts, with lockright rear. 3.73. 4" front lift AAL rear with 33" BFG a/t
K20-383, sm465,np205, D44, 14BFF, detroit, with 4.10s 8" front, homebrew shackle flip rear.
Before I started school I started Phase 1.
This included swapping axles, lifts, and brake systems.
This went smoothly.
The blazer now has the D44/14b, and the 8" springs up front, but I decided to put 6" rear springs in the back.
THe k20 had the 1/2 ton crap, with 6" front springs and the shackle flip stuff.
Everything was fine for 2 weeks....Then I cracked the case on my TH400?!?!?!
This pushed me to finally start phase 2
The blazer will get the 383, sm465/208, and the K20 becomes a roller.
I converted it to hyrdaulic clutch, because I'm not smart enough to set-up the mech linkages correct...Popped off everytime I would torque the truck hard enough.
Obviously it's not done yet...Waiting on my bellhousing to get here, before I can do any "Big" stuff.
How-to: Hydro clutch conversion, in a pre-hydro truck, utilizing mechanical pedals.
Remove the cruise control wiring and grommet, this is approxametly where the master is put in later trucks.
I set my pedals in the truck and drilled about 3 holes before I got a good location. Which allowed the pedal to travel almost to the floor. (1/2" above)
I used a piece of 3/8 round stock, drilled and tapped it to accept a 5/16 bolt, then bolted this to the pedal. I then measured a good distance to space the pushrod away from the return spring far enough, but close enough to not interfer with the A/c ducting.
Sorry if the photo-quality sucks, most of this are from my phone.
I also put seats from an 2002 GMC truck in the blazer, the front tracks will bolt right into the outermost stock holes, the rears I had to drill new holes and put fender washers under the body to support the seat, in case of a wreck. (These seats use seat-belts in them.)
They were a little low for my liking, so I cut pieces of 1" square tubing to space the seat up from the floor. I'm happy to say that they feel stock, except they're more comfortable.
) so I decided to build the K5 with the k20 parts, the K5 is more sealed, and reliable.The two trucks had these before I started.
K5- GM350,th400,np208. 10bolts, with lockright rear. 3.73. 4" front lift AAL rear with 33" BFG a/t
K20-383, sm465,np205, D44, 14BFF, detroit, with 4.10s 8" front, homebrew shackle flip rear.
Before I started school I started Phase 1.
This included swapping axles, lifts, and brake systems.
This went smoothly.
The blazer now has the D44/14b, and the 8" springs up front, but I decided to put 6" rear springs in the back.
THe k20 had the 1/2 ton crap, with 6" front springs and the shackle flip stuff.
Everything was fine for 2 weeks....Then I cracked the case on my TH400?!?!?!
This pushed me to finally start phase 2
The blazer will get the 383, sm465/208, and the K20 becomes a roller.
I converted it to hyrdaulic clutch, because I'm not smart enough to set-up the mech linkages correct...Popped off everytime I would torque the truck hard enough.
Obviously it's not done yet...Waiting on my bellhousing to get here, before I can do any "Big" stuff.
How-to: Hydro clutch conversion, in a pre-hydro truck, utilizing mechanical pedals.
Remove the cruise control wiring and grommet, this is approxametly where the master is put in later trucks.
I set my pedals in the truck and drilled about 3 holes before I got a good location. Which allowed the pedal to travel almost to the floor. (1/2" above)
I used a piece of 3/8 round stock, drilled and tapped it to accept a 5/16 bolt, then bolted this to the pedal. I then measured a good distance to space the pushrod away from the return spring far enough, but close enough to not interfer with the A/c ducting.
Sorry if the photo-quality sucks, most of this are from my phone.
I also put seats from an 2002 GMC truck in the blazer, the front tracks will bolt right into the outermost stock holes, the rears I had to drill new holes and put fender washers under the body to support the seat, in case of a wreck. (These seats use seat-belts in them.)
They were a little low for my liking, so I cut pieces of 1" square tubing to space the seat up from the floor. I'm happy to say that they feel stock, except they're more comfortable.
