Title in hand in the sellers name. If he has a rig and no title and you plan to register it, it could prove to be difficult
CK5
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K5 buyers guide/checklist
- Thread starter Jessie James
- Start date
Title in hand in the sellers name. If he has a rig and no title and you plan to register it, it could prove to be difficult
Jessie James
1/2 ton status
Any legal and legitimate seller can contact the DMV and get a copy of the title. If they do not have the title, assume it's stolen.
You do NOT want to be in possession of a stolen vehicle (or were in possession of it) at ANY time. I bought a car from a shop that closed up and they had mis-reported the VIN. When I sold it, I found that and fixed it. A few days later the cops showed up to my home, school, and finally work with guns drawn looking for me. Since I sold it the left me alone. I did not record the name of the buyer, though.
They then arrested the buyer who bought it from me while he was waiting at the DMV. Same deal, guns drawn, dragged him out in handcuffs. Unfortunately for him, he spent 2 months restoring the car back to glory BEFORE he registered it so he lost all his money - about $5k. I was on the hook for the sale price to him so I had to pay him back, and the guy I bought it from also had to pay me back. I lost $1000 in that deal. It was a 1967 Mustang, and the original owner got their car back completely restored!
And be sure the title is in the SELLERS name, not just signed over to him or in someone else's name (unless that person signs the bill of sale). "Skip titling" is illegal, I found that out also.
No title in the sellers name = no sale. Run away.
You do NOT want to be in possession of a stolen vehicle (or were in possession of it) at ANY time. I bought a car from a shop that closed up and they had mis-reported the VIN. When I sold it, I found that and fixed it. A few days later the cops showed up to my home, school, and finally work with guns drawn looking for me. Since I sold it the left me alone. I did not record the name of the buyer, though.
They then arrested the buyer who bought it from me while he was waiting at the DMV. Same deal, guns drawn, dragged him out in handcuffs. Unfortunately for him, he spent 2 months restoring the car back to glory BEFORE he registered it so he lost all his money - about $5k. I was on the hook for the sale price to him so I had to pay him back, and the guy I bought it from also had to pay me back. I lost $1000 in that deal. It was a 1967 Mustang, and the original owner got their car back completely restored!
And be sure the title is in the SELLERS name, not just signed over to him or in someone else's name (unless that person signs the bill of sale). "Skip titling" is illegal, I found that out also.
No title in the sellers name = no sale. Run away.
Bill Howell
Newbie
I am a bit late to the party here, but I see you are in Georgia. If the vehicle is registered there and has a tag there, you are fine. Some states don't title vehicles over a certain age and I know Georgia is one, since I lived there for 40+ years. If you sell it to someone out of state, (at least to someone here in Tennessee) they can take your registration and a bill of sale to their courthouse and get a tag and TITLE. Don't be alarmed if there is not a title in Georgia, and most people from other states don't understand Georgia's process. If it is registered there, the state has already checked with NCIC and found the vehicle not to be stolen, etc. They just don't retitle it.
Great list of things to look for!
Something about Salvage Titles is that they are not always bad. A vehicle can be salvaged for minor reasons because of cost of parts etc. It important to know what your looking at. Vehicles get salvaged when the cost of repair approches 70% of a vehicles blue book value, which in the case of Blazers is not high, and cost of repairs are extremly high. A good example would be a vehicle that got in a collision where the radiator, core support and a/c condenser were damaged along with a front fender. This would "Total" a 1988 Blazer because of the cost of radiators, a/c condensers, and body panels plus labor. This would cause the salvaged title to be put on an otherwise perfectly good blazer. I have seen more damage on blazer with clear titles that were used off-road than those in accidents.
I personally would have no trouble buying one in this case, although would get it cheaper!
Something about Salvage Titles is that they are not always bad. A vehicle can be salvaged for minor reasons because of cost of parts etc. It important to know what your looking at. Vehicles get salvaged when the cost of repair approches 70% of a vehicles blue book value, which in the case of Blazers is not high, and cost of repairs are extremly high. A good example would be a vehicle that got in a collision where the radiator, core support and a/c condenser were damaged along with a front fender. This would "Total" a 1988 Blazer because of the cost of radiators, a/c condensers, and body panels plus labor. This would cause the salvaged title to be put on an otherwise perfectly good blazer. I have seen more damage on blazer with clear titles that were used off-road than those in accidents.
I personally would have no trouble buying one in this case, although would get it cheaper!
Wish I would of seen this before my latest purchase. Drove three hours and bought a truck I realy didn't want. Had 3/4 ton axles and not one tons, wasnt geared or locked like I was wanting and there is more nickle and dime repairs than I care to do. BUT it is a 89 k5 with only two small rust spots, 3/4 ton axles 6 inch lift 40 inch tires and a running 350. All for 3500. Not bad but...
What I learned is take someone with you who isn't emotionaly conected to the purchase, Check how they sign the title (dont just trust a noterie), Don't let the distance traveled influence your descision to purchase or not, USE A CHECK LIST TO GO OVER THE TRUCK, If it isn't what you want walk away.
What I learned is take someone with you who isn't emotionaly conected to the purchase, Check how they sign the title (dont just trust a noterie), Don't let the distance traveled influence your descision to purchase or not, USE A CHECK LIST TO GO OVER THE TRUCK, If it isn't what you want walk away.
jogutier
Newbie
WOW, I would be scared to sell you a vehicle. 
garlicbreath
1/2 ton status
If you showed up at my house to buy a truck with a few jugs of gear oil to check the gear ratio in the axles, I would laugh. There is no way I am letting a POTENTIAL buyer pull the diff covers and make a mess.
If they were that determined I would hand them some string, a piece of tape, and a jack.
If I was looking at a mint 67 RS/SS 396 4 speed Camaro, THEN I would have the balls to whip out your checklist.
That list is VERY comprehensive though. It's almost the best overall preventative maintenance list I have seen!
Well Done!
If they were that determined I would hand them some string, a piece of tape, and a jack.
If I was looking at a mint 67 RS/SS 396 4 speed Camaro, THEN I would have the balls to whip out your checklist.
That list is VERY comprehensive though. It's almost the best overall preventative maintenance list I have seen!
Well Done!
ChevyToy04
1/2 ton status
I have read over your checklist and have found a potential K5 that I would like to check out. Talked to the owner, and got a great price. He told me that the brakes needed work due to it sitting up. Test driving down the road is out of the question. Any suggestions on what to do or how to make sure its worth fooling with???? 
tee13
Newbie
great rite up
bashepard
Registered Member
This info is invaluable! Im gonna put together a kit to take with me tomorrow!
MuzachMT
Registered Member
I bought my k5 not knowing much at all about mechanics. So I brought my ex-mechanic uncle with me..I figured if I missed something he wouldn't. Good to have a extra mind and body there to ask questions, and help push it if a bad decision was made :P. Funny though, when I bought mine the guy lived next to a mud bog of a parking lot, so that was my test drive. Gave me a lot of faith in the guy's word and the truck as I rallyed it through foot deep mud holes without any issues, and also took it for a street drive.
3car
1/2 ton status
sorry, i find it comical. at this point,most of these trucks are old, well worn, and put away wet. some of the details are useless.90% of the time, youre buying a project. suck it up
454Sub
5/8 ton status
Most of us are well aware of the fact these trucks are beat on and are project vehicles, but at the same time, most of us dont want to buy a truck with the power steering box hanging off because the frames cracked, and a rusted out hulk with new carpet over the problems. Great write up for the inexperienced wheeler, and a great reminder for the long timers who just forget about small details. I always learned to take a equal to or greater than mechanic buddy with me, always good to have an extra pair of eyes. That being said, I bought mine in the dark, at midnight, barely running, at a house party, and made some rookie mistakes and knowing better the entire time, but it was a had to have moment of weakness.
Jessie James
1/2 ton status
I have to disagree. The budget you have for the purchase price dictates what kind of vehicle you will end up with.
If you have $1,000 to spend, yes, it's going to be a disaster area.
On the other hand, if you have $5k to $6k, you can buy a truck that needs little to no work.
If you are in the middle, a checklist can help you find a truck that needs less work or help you avoid one that has major issues.
yup, spend some time looking around, I've seen some good deals for 3k-6k
and some that have been beat on too, that's why this thread is so helpful.
the best one I seen was the first one I looked at, unfortunately I didn't want to jump on the first one so after looking at several more I went back to the first a week later and missed it by a few hours. I'm sure another like it will come along.
thanks for this thread
and some that have been beat on too, that's why this thread is so helpful.
the best one I seen was the first one I looked at, unfortunately I didn't want to jump on the first one so after looking at several more I went back to the first a week later and missed it by a few hours. I'm sure another like it will come along.
thanks for this thread
wyomingk5
Registered Member
Checking ratio.
Hi guys, new guy here. You don't have to pull the cover to check ratio. This takes two people that can count at least to 60. Take a floor jack with you. Jack up one rear wheel, put t/case in neutral or trans in neutral, turn wheel 20 rotations by hand have the other guy count drive shaft revolutions, if the driveshaft turns 37.3 it is a 3:73 ratio if it turns 41 times it is a 4:10. If it has a posi, locker, or a spool you jack up both wheels and turn 10 times = same results. I put valve stem at 12 o clock and mark the drive shaft or use the balance weight as a point. The hardest part is finding someone that can count. This works great shopping at the junk yard. Just my 2 cents worth.
Hi guys, new guy here. You don't have to pull the cover to check ratio. This takes two people that can count at least to 60. Take a floor jack with you. Jack up one rear wheel, put t/case in neutral or trans in neutral, turn wheel 20 rotations by hand have the other guy count drive shaft revolutions, if the driveshaft turns 37.3 it is a 3:73 ratio if it turns 41 times it is a 4:10. If it has a posi, locker, or a spool you jack up both wheels and turn 10 times = same results. I put valve stem at 12 o clock and mark the drive shaft or use the balance weight as a point. The hardest part is finding someone that can count.
This works great shopping at the junk yard. Just my 2 cents worth.
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