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K5 buyers guide/checklist

Most of the trucks in my area are missing the emmisions controls. Sellers still want full price. Also the seller is responsible for passing emmisions (denver area). If they don't want to have it inspected only offer tow away/scrap value. Bills of sale are usless here to
 
3car said:
sorry, i find it comical. at this point,most of these trucks are old, well worn, and put away wet. some of the details are useless.90% of the time, youre buying a project. suck it up
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I kind of agree. While that huge checklist is a great idea, it's somewhat impractical to go through the whole thing. If someone showed up wanting to tear apart my truck to check every crevasse, I'd probably tell them this vehicle is not for them. Lol
 
To be honest these are good points but as I read on Gota wonder what is realistic for rigs this old.

Even grandpa driven driven street rigs.

We have to decide what we want the rigs purpose to be.

Is it going to be restored to better than new condition? Maybe,there are some very clean rigs out there that haven't been molested by the high school kid installing steroids shit. On that same note I've seen guys in there 40s that are dumbest shit.

But if you want a wheeling rig we can compromise alot. Let's throw the fine tooth comb in the trash. So it's rusty. Won't start cause the starter bolts are stripped out. Is rusty, has broken

What we might find is a showroom floor k5 if we're looking and have the cash. But most likely not.

Grab your grandpa uncle or wherever mechanic you have in the family maybe a friend who's a mechanic. You know what your fubared before you start. I know a lot of so called mechanics


Lol. Whatever you do pull all the I found you can and throw a few grains of salt whenever possible.
And if they want 2 grand, offer 800 and come up to 1000
 
rjfguitar said:
I kind of agree. While that huge checklist is a great idea, it's somewhat impractical to go through the whole thing. If someone showed up wanting to tear apart my truck to check every crevasse, I'd probably tell them this vehicle is not for them. Lol
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I think the idea is more to know what you're getting. Whether the truck is a weather beaten wheeler for $1200 or a pavement princess for $5800, i'd want to know what I need to fix, or can expect to have to fix soon (and make sure the price point is suitable to the condition) before shelling out a paycheck or 3.

*EDIT: That said, it's only fair for me to admit, I bought mine sight unseen from across the country. I contracted out a service that does car inspections for this kind of thing and it was a waste of money, they focused 99% on cosmetics. Fortunately, the PO was well equipped to give an accurate, objective assessment of the vehicles mechanical condition, had service records and receipts for aftermarket parts (including engine/trans), and was forthcoming about the few minor problems the truck had. In retrospect, I was REALLY lucky. The terms of escrow would've allowed me to refuse the vehicle, but I would've eaten a sizable shipping cost (CA to NY!) were I to exercise the option.
Maybe I should start a separate thread on interstate car sales, I'm sure there's a wealth of advice to be had from the members on here. Anyone know if there is one already?
 
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Man wish I had this list when I bought mine. I got hosed on my deal. Great list!
 
Hey guys- I would like to just throw this out there. Make sure the VIN on the FRAME and CAB match the VIN on the title! Especially if your bringing in something out of state and into California.......For those of you who want to take advantage of the smog exempt status wich is 75 and under,You could be going home with a huge mess when dealing with the CHP inspector!
 
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I wish I'd read this list before buying my K5!!!
 
I'll add to this good list and other comments to date it's October 2020 as of the time of this post and all these trucks are over 30 years old now and unless they've been in a climate controlled Barrett-Jackson Garage for decades you're not going to find a cheap K5 that does not need one of just about everything...

How soon one of everything needs to be replaced is the question and how much of that can you do yourself...

A 100% Rust Free K5 is a Unicorn even in the southwest...

Just about any K5 you find that has not been restored is on it's 3rd or 4th Engine and Tranny by now, speedometer has probably been turned over 3-4 times and or replaced, on these K5's stated mileage or mileage you find on a car fax is too subjective to mean anything on a 30+ year old vehicle with more than one owner...

And it's Transfer Case & Axles have had something done to them several times if original...

Unless I missed it, one key thing to check on K5's is frame cracks and or repairs by all the shock mounts and their mounting tabs, brackets, etc...

Also, crossmember, frame cracks and or repairs opposite the steering box, near the fuel pump on a small block chevy...

Finding a K5 without frame cracks by the steering box and or shock mounts at frame and or mounting tabs is also edging into Unicorn Territory, how bad the unrepaired cracks are or repair job is on previous cracks is something to be mindful of...

I'll add a note on Salvage Titles, it's true stuff can be totaled by insurance companies for what may not seem signifigant to many...

The problem is it's forever a salvage title and the vehicle will have little or no resale value no matter what you do to it and you'll have dificulty getting insurance on it, and will pay more from those who will insure a branded salvage vehicle...

When it comes to buying a K5 now days you're buying a project or a restoration, with few exceptions...

IF you want a K5, unless it's had a frame off restoration by Gas Monkey Garage or Count's Kustom's or some other well known shop, you're going to have to do some work on it, probably a lot more often then not...

When it come's to pulling the trigger on a K5 for myself who like most can't afford to buy a restored one done right, I have some numbers in my head, like the cost of a crate engine, transmission, transfer case, rebuilding or replacing axles, rust repair, etc...

I'm in the running and driving project camp, if I find a K5 that run's and drives, has a clean title in the name of seller, in hand, and I don't think it needs one of everything right away and the price is what I'm willing to spend that day I might pull the trigger on it.
 
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Bohemian said:
I'll add to this good list and other comments to date it's October 2020 as of the time of this post and all these trucks are over 30 years old now and unless they've been in a climate controlled Barrett-Jackson Garage for decades you're not going to find a cheap K5 that does not need one of just about everything...

How soon one of everything needs to be replaced is the question and how much of that can you do yourself...

A 100% Rust Free K5 is a Unicorn even in the southwest...

Just about any K5 you find that has not been restored is on it's 3rd or 4th Engine and Tranny by now, speedometer has probably been turned over 3-4 times and or replaced, on these K5's stated mileage or mileage you find on a car fax is too subjective to mean anything on a 30+ year old vehicle with more than one owner...

And it's Transfer Case & Axles have had something done to them several times if original...

Unless I missed it, one key thing to check on K5's is frame cracks and or repairs by all the shock mounts and their mounting tabs, brackets, etc...

Also, crossmember, frame cracks and or repairs opposite the steering box, near the fuel pump on a small block chevy...

Finding a K5 without frame cracks by the steering box and or shock mounts at frame and or mounting tabs is also edging into Unicorn Territory, how bad the unrepaired cracks are or repair job is on previous cracks is something to be mindful of...

I'll add a note on Salvage Titles, it's true stuff can be totaled by insurance companies for what may not seem signifigant to many...

The problem is it's forever a salvage title and the vehicle will have little or no resale value no matter what you do to it and you'll have dificulty getting insurance on it, and will pay more from those who will insure a branded salvage vehicle...

When it comes to buying a K5 now days you're buying a project or a restoration, with few exceptions...

IF you want a K5, unless it's had a frame off restoration by Gas Monkey Garage or Count's Kustom's or some other well known shop, you're going to have to do some work on it, probably a lot more often then not...

When it come's to pulling the trigger on a K5 for myself who like most can't afford to buy a restored one done right, I have some numbers in my head, like the cost of a crate engine, transmission, transfer case, rebuilding or replacing axles, rust repair, etc...

I'm in the running and driving project camp, if I find a K5 that run's and drives, has a clean title in the name of seller, in hand, and I don't think it needs one of everything right away and the price is what I'm willing to spend that day I might pull the trigger on it.
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In Texas, you can apply to have a "repaired/rebuit" title after all the problems have been addressed. Still wont be as valuable as the original blue title. But better than a salvage title. Just an FYI.

https://itstillruns.com/rebuilt-title-texas-7160671.html
 
I think this check list is great, and the argument that these are 30+ year old vehicles is valid, it all depends on what you are using it for. I am looking for a daily driver with a budget of 8-12,000 which is the lower end of a one owner daily driver Suburban. Titles in Alabama are also not needed over 25 years but its easy to call the local PD and have a VIN checked for free. Good job!

Any chance there is an update PDF for the checklist? The link is dead.
 
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eodcoduto said:
I think this check list is great, and the argument that these are 30+ year old vehicles is valid, it all depends on what you are using it for. I am looking for a daily driver with a budget of 8-12,000 which is the lower end of a one owner daily driver Suburban. Titles in Alabama are also not needed over 25 years but its easy to call the local PD and have a VIN checked for free. Good job!

Any chance there is an update PDF for the checklist? The link is dead.
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The system here in Alabama is pretty lax and easy.
In 2006 I bought a new Harley.
Went to the courthouse, got my tag, rode it for a year before the dealership called to tell me they gave me the wrong title.
I’m glad they figured it out and didn’t just report it stolen.
 
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