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k5 drivetrain-help me make up my mind

Possibly. I drove my 1990 Blazer from California to Nebraska, and have since driven it all over the place with no VSS.

Martin
 
Possibly. I drove my 1990 Blazer from California to Nebraska, and have since driven it all over the place with no VSS.

Martin

Knowing the issues I listed, where would you start if it were your truck. It's driveable, but not ideal at all, especially the delay between shifts.
 
That is probably your problem then. Controls the shifting of a TH700R4.

Martin
 
The cable running from the transmission to the carburetor/throttle body.

Google it, I am sure you find a multitude of good explanations on how to properly adjust it. Better than my explanation would be.

Martin
 
The cable running from the transmission to the carburetor/throttle body.

Google it, I am sure you find a multitude of good explanations on how to properly adjust it. Better than my explanation would be.

Martin

Alright, I'll see if I can Google it. I did order the part from jagsthatrun.Com so I'll update when I get it installed.
 
http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/

Pretty good article here on the subject.

yaeh i was just looking over it. From the "illness" section I couldnt pin anything that was exactly like the issue I was having, this seemed close I guess:
Something I want to mention as well. The issue with delayed shifts is at its worst when I first drive the truck. When I pull out of my driveway and it shifts to 2nd i have to almost completely let off the gas and let it shift. As the truck is driven it smooths out and sometimes isnt an issue. Ive thought about putting the gopro under the truck and taking a video of what i mean. Would that help you guys?

The other incorrect TV set up condition is what we call Long Spring Syndrome (LSS). This condition exists when the TV valve is positioned in such a way as to cause TV feed fluid to be prematurely feeding into the TV feed orifice. This condition will be influencing the transmissions control circuits even though the accelerator pedal is still in its idle position. We know of four things that will normally cause the LSS "illness". First is when the vehicles accelerator pedal will not rotate the "carburetor linkage" to its full W.O.T. position and the accelerator pedal is then used during a factory "set" procedure to "set" the W.O.T. position. Second cause would be a "carburetor linkage" which causes the TV cable to return a distance shorter than required to position the TV valve at its correct starting position. Third is a TV spring that's too long which subsequently will not allow the TV valve to position correctly at the edge of the TV feed orifice. This LSS condition rarely causes damage but can result in some very frustrating behavior. LSS causes the TV valve to be positioned in such a way as to allow TV feed fluid pressure and volume to feed into the TV feed passage before the accelerator pedal is depressed at all! This condition signals for higher line pressures and instructs the up shift control circuits to start delaying the up shift timing before the accelerator pedal is even depressed at all! Common symptoms of LSS are late hard up shifts compared to the accelerator pedal position during light to medium throttle driving situations. Late hard shifts during light throttle driving situations gets very old in a hurry. Downshifting may occur too early and can sometimes causes "shuttling" between overdrive (4th) and 3rd gears. The transmission may produce double down shifts at inappropriate times, of example, it shifts from overdrive (4th) down to second gear (2nd) gear when a shift into third (3rd) would have been far more appropriate.
 
I went out and looked at my TV cable. It seems like it's pulled way out. I'll have to try an adjust it. From some youtube videos I've watched it goes something like this:
there is a "button" on the back of the TV cable/mount. When you press it you can adjust it out or in. At the time have a friend push the gas pedal to the floor allow the TV cable to pull out to maximum then release the "button" to lock it in position.
basically you don't want slack at full throttle on the TV cable right?

Now I also want to clarify, the further this is pulled out the more pressure the transmission will apply. correct?
 
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depress the "D" button and push the cable sheath back towards the firewall.. release D button... actuate throttle to full throttle.. the cable should click out a couple clicks...
 
depress the "D" button and push the cable sheath back towards the firewall.. release D button... actuate throttle to full throttle.. the cable should click out a couple clicks...

Thanks! Ill do that here in a little bit.
I also want to thank everyone for their input. I promise im not an idiot or anything. I truly appreciate the help.
 
Don't worry about anyone thinking you are an idiot. The TV cable is the cause of a lot of operator induced problems. People just don't understand it.

Martin
 
Don't worry about anyone thinking you are an idiot. The TV cable is the cause of a lot of operator induced problems. People just don't understand it.

Martin

Well my daughter and I adjusted that together. At first she hit the pedal fast and I think it jerked it out too far. Had her do it slow. We took it a spin and it's like a whole new truck! No delay in shifts 2nd revved out kinda far but that is probably normal. It felt great and like it should be. Had it on the highway, downshifts were crisp and predictable. So I'll get the jegsthatrun part, get my speedo etc back. Plug in for torque converter and if I still have an issue I'll check the brake pedal adjustment. (I'll have to research that, but one thing at a time.) I also have a promising lead on seatbelts for the rear. So I'm hoping I can button up these loose ends before daughter #3 is born. (Due April 26th) after that I'm going to work on keeping the transmission alive and get it painted. I am so happy!:bow:
 
Glad that it worked out for you. Much easier than a tranny swap.

Martin
 
Glad that it worked out for you. Much easier than a tranny swap.

Martin

You are right about that! I kinda avoided driving it because I was afraid to burn it up. Do they make an aftermarket transmission pan that has the temp sensor in it? Guess I should Google that.
 
Just a quick question. I notice when I driving really slow and taking it easy 1st and 2nd shift great but the rpms have to be almost 4k. Do I still need to adjust some on the TV cable or is this something else?

Edit: toward the front end of the truck is less pressure sooner shifts, toward the firewall is more pressure later shifts. I ouldnt probably fine tune it a bit more But it's good for now.
 
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