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K5 Radiator Leak -Fix or Replace?
- Thread starter PaulZ
- Start date
Assuming copper brass, and you can find a shop to rebuild it for not a ton of money, I'd go that route. Copper/brass have gotten very pricey, but they hold up well.
Plastic/AL are the new norm, but really haven't heard of much first hand experience in the (our) trucks. Not being the OEM solution, the possibility exists that they are all lowest bidder garbage.
While I like the concept of the welded AL radiators, in execution most seem to be lacking, and "good" ones are going to be multiples in terms of expense over the plastic/AL ones. I'm not a fan of spending hundreds of dollars, then having to modify a piece, or the truck, to get it to fit. I don't care how much work it actually takes, lack of attention to detail on something so critical makes me question quality.
There is nothing inherently wrong with the plastic/AL, that is the norm in all modern production vehicles, but as a retrofit, I'm not sure aftermarket quality is going to match what comes OEM in modern vehicles.
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Vombrown
Mountain Man
Be careful with the aluminum radiators. Fully welded is more expensive than epoxied versions. They are also better. I stay away from plastic unless I have no other option.
Ned Kelly
1/2 ton status
I had to replace my brass rad (installed in 1989)...got 22yrs or so out of it.
I used a Spectre Rad (marked as 'Made in Canada' ...aluminum body with plastic tanks) as a temporary measure when I needed to get up and running asap.
6yrs later all is still good on my BBC. No problems in 6yrs, never overheats, no leaks. It was part number CU730 and still lists at only $150 at RockAuto. I'm totally happy with it.
On a side note...."Made in Canada", and I had to pay $325 for it here in Canada!! ...plus 13% provincial sales tax. Any Canadian auto hobby-ist will tell you we often get ripped off on prices here.
I used a Spectre Rad (marked as 'Made in Canada' ...aluminum body with plastic tanks) as a temporary measure when I needed to get up and running asap.
6yrs later all is still good on my BBC. No problems in 6yrs, never overheats, no leaks. It was part number CU730 and still lists at only $150 at RockAuto. I'm totally happy with it.
On a side note...."Made in Canada", and I had to pay $325 for it here in Canada!! ...plus 13% provincial sales tax. Any Canadian auto hobby-ist will tell you we often get ripped off on prices here.
I don't know about everywhere else, but around here it's getting hard to find anyone who still repairs radiators. Most places closed down years ago, and the few left charge almost as much to fix as it is to replace.
Ned Kelly
1/2 ton status
I agree..a lost industry/skill due to cheap imports and sky high price of brass. There were several local rad shops I went to back in the day. None left in my area.
Does your truck see much flexing?
I'm probably overthinking this as I do everything, but even with all the mounts between the frame and radiator, I'm curious about how much force the radiator might see. It seems the plastic/AL units are prone to leaking where the tanks mate with the radiator if they are going to fail, if there is any twisting force transferred to the radiator it definitely wouldn't handle it as well as a copper/brass. I suspect the core support is pretty well solid because the frame crossmember is quite close.
I may go the plastic/AL radiator route to test, if I don't decide to try my smaller radiator project first/instead. When your engine has all 8 cylinders working as they should, apparently you generate more coolant heat. Who knew? lol
Ned Kelly
1/2 ton status
Not really much flexing stuff on a regular basis. Mud/snow/dd/forest trails.
Just got back from the radiator shop. Operated by the same old timer that opened it many years ago, drives a Model A to work. When he retires that will be the end of it, another coffee joint or nail salon will move in. $100-$120 to repair my stock brass tank, bringing it in next week.
