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K5 saggy butt cures - zero rate or long aal?

AJMBLAZER

Better to be lucky than good.
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The K5 has the saggy butt syndrome. Not so apparent now but I figure once the heavy ass front bumper and winch are gone it will be more noticeable.

I honestly like how it rides. I figure after the new shocks are in it should firm up the bouncing and swaying as the ones on it aren't doing much now. I don't want to end up with a harsh, hard ride but I'm also kind of wondering about axle wrap, especially if I add a zero rate to it.
I put a BDS long add a leaf in the stock pack of my Ranger to help with a nose up attitude it had. Stiffened up the rear a bit but definitely wasn't as bad as I hear people talk about short add a leaves. Got 1-1.5" of lift out of it and it acted more like another leaf in the pack than another overload.
I've also used zero rates in various vehicles.


Zero rate - cheap, easy to do, effective one inch rear lift. Might add to axle wrap issues that may or may not exist.

Long add a leaf - not as cheap (still not expensive though), help stiffen up the pack without being harsh like a short add a leaf...but will it be worth the extra effort?
 
this is why i went with the ord 2.5" shackle flip. no matter what i do with the lift, i will always have that extra half inch.
 
u could have some one recurve your current leafs it can add a bit.
Gah, rearching leaf springs?:crazy::eek1: People still do that? Good way to make a saggy spring a stiff riding spring that quickly sags back to the way it was or just worse than it was.
Rearching springs is old, outdated tech.
this is why i went with the ord 2.5" shackle flip. no matter what i do with the lift, i will always have that extra half inch.
Eh, it's staying stock. 32's MAYBE and I really don't want it to end up being higher than stock other than the appropriate 1" or so rear height.
 
oh, well sounds like you want the zero rates.

not sure what long add-a-leafs you are looking at, but my last set added about 2" of lift, and a stiffer spring rate.

you can always have Alcan make you some springs if you want to be real picky. $$$
 
If you are going to keep it fairly stock and plan on new shocks soon, why not look at some air shocks. I put some on my 2wd burb and love them. Makes it easy to adjust for mild spring sag and I actually think it rides better. Maybe a little stiffer in the rear but definately not bad and you can always add/remove a little air to adjust to your taste.
 
Eh, I want to actually fix the issue, not bandaid it. Coil over shocks, air shocks, weight helper shocks, etc wouldn't fix the actual suspension, just fix the symptoms.
 
Eh, I want to actually fix the issue, not bandaid it. Coil over shocks, air shocks, weight helper shocks, etc wouldn't fix the actual suspension, just fix the symptoms.


The other options you mentioned are also bandaids. They don't fix the fact that the springs are 20+ years old. The only real "fix" would be to get new springs all together. But you mentioned you are looking for more of a budget minded fix to the levelling issue, and you are in need of new shocks. Honestly if you are happy with the current ride, and just want a little levelling front to rear, then I would give the air shocks a chance. I have very minimal sag on my burb and love the way it rides. I got mine to help level things out when towing without having to add something that would change the ride unloaded like an AAL or the overload springs. When not towing I run about 30psi in the shocks and its nice and smooth and level front to rear. The best part is that if you try it and don't like it, keep the pressure at the minimum of 20psi and they are just like regular shocks. You could then add the AAL or zero rate.
 
I don't agree with the above. These trucks had the "saggy butt" syndrome when brand new so I don't believe it's caused by worn out springs. I bought my '90 with 49k on the clock and it sagged noticably in the rear, and to the is day with over 100k it still has the stock rear springs with the same profile (only difference are 4" lift front springs and 4" shackle flip).

Why do pickups not look this way when stock....simple, Blazers and Suburbans have substantially more weight on the back axle than a pickup has with no load. Put 500+ lbs. in a 1/2 ton pickup and see what it looks like then.

Anyway, if you like the current ride I would go with the zero-rate.
 
Did some measuring last night and mine is about 2" lower in the rear than the front. Thinking the zero rates might not be enough.

I measured from the center of the front hubs to the fender lip straight above and the center of the rear center caps to the fender lip straight above.
 
Did some measuring last night and mine is about 2" lower in the rear than the front. Thinking the zero rates might not be enough.

I measured from the center of the front hubs to the fender lip straight above and the center of the rear center caps to the fender lip straight above.
then i would go add a leaf
 
Did some measuring last night and mine is about 2" lower in the rear than the front. Thinking the zero rates might not be enough.

I measured from the center of the front hubs to the fender lip straight above and the center of the rear center caps to the fender lip straight above.

remember the fender opening is taller in the front than in the back, need to measure from the body line.
 
remember the fender opening is taller in the front than in the back, need to measure from the body line.

Thats what i was goign to mention.

Do an add a leaf if you want it stiffer in the rear (no jokes :haha:), zero rate if you don't want it stiffer. Pretty simple question i think.
 
Hrmmmm...need to go remeasure that.

I'm hopeful about a long add a leaf. I had good luck with the BDS's I put in my Ranger's soft rear packs. Only got 1-1.5" of lift out of it.
 
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