k5 sound system

[78K-5BLAZER]

i am puting togethor a system in my 78 k5 i have desided on the pioneer deh-x9600bhs when i got the truck it had a junck aftermarket cd player that did not work and some old worn out 6x9s in the lower doors no other speakers in the truck my plan is to a good pair of 6x9s in the doors and in the back seat put a good set of 6-1/2 speakers my question is should i use a 10 or 12 sub i not want anything crazy or overwellming to the other speakers got plans to install a 140 amp alternator and a good heavy duty battery also would like sugjestion on amps 4 channel class ab and 4 channel lowprofile and if i use a sub a good ab class or lowprofie amp the reason for the lowprofie amps is i the k5 not just of roading but also for hualing in the back storage

 

[shadowwalker_02]

pad

 

[neverdone]

Here's some more periods. ...............

 

[78K-5BLAZER]

ok i get it! i am a scramble brain and disoranised i am just looking for sugjestions advice and answers and opinions

 

[73k5blazer]

I have one 10" sub in my side panel. I, like you, didn't want to be overwhelmed or need or want thumping while sitting at lights. I just wanted some more bass in the sound when going down the road.

It is driven by a dedicated sub amp, a Polk C500.1 monoblock class d amp, rated 350w@4ohm, and 500w@2ohms. 2ohm stable amp.
I have an Infinity 10.1d DVC subwoofer (just 1) rated 350w RMS, (or 175w per coil). each coil is 4ohms. 1400w peak (or 700 peak per coil). I did build a cavity of the proper side in the side panel itself,completely under the side panel, sealed section that the sub sits in.

Together with an older (2005ish) high end Pioneer head unit, polk 4 channel amp driving 4 polk speakers, it is exactly what I was looking for. Clear, clean sound, with bass, top on or top off, low speed or high speed.
One key element, I think, bass seems to vary in different songs and sources, I'm very glad I installed the available remote bass adjustment knob that came with the amp. It's on my dash, can turn it up and down at will.

You can see the amp mounted within the cavity.

Sub toward the right of the picture, partially obscured by the roll cage.

 

[dhcomp]

If you already have 6x9's in the doors, do 6x9's in teh side panels too.

The added mid bass will be welcome.

A 10 or a 12 in a sealed box will do great. I've always run 12's, but a good 10 will get the job done.

If you are just running a 4 channel, and a sub amp, no need to do alternator upgrades.

If it were me, i'd buy a 5 channel digital class amp amp, mount under the drivers seat, or behind the spare tire, and skip needing 2 amps. The alpine PDX's are a bit pricy, but the digital class amps are smaller, run cooler, draw less amps, and are more consistent in general.

Even if you don't go with the PDX model, defintiely look into a 5 channel.

 

[brans87]

73k5blazer your pic didn't show up. Mind sending a link or posting a pic up?

 

[Deuling]

Supertrapps are a good sound system

 

[78K-5BLAZER]

tell me what you guys think of this setup head unit pioneer deh-x9600bhs speakers pioneer TS-A6995R 6x9 5 way 92db 27hz-37000khz sub 12'' KICKER 10VC124 27hz-500hz 88.3db sub amp BOSS R1100M THD: 0.01% Dimensions: 10-7/16" (W) x 2-1/4" (H) x 9-1/8" (L) Class A/B which in my opinion sounds better then class d Signal to Noise Ratio: greater than 102 dB main 4 channel amp also class a/b BOSS R4004 Power output: 4 x 150W RMS (@ 4 ohms Frequency response: 9 to 50,000 Hz Signal-to-ratio: greater than 102 dB Total harmonic distortion: 0.01% @ RMS power output • Damping factor: greater than 125 Dimensions (L x H x W): 10.44" x 2.25" x 15.51 conecting the head unit to the 4 channel amp i am using StreetWires ZN5460 4-Ch Interconnect rcas

 

[Massacre-77]

boss amps are garbage get a kicker b stock or referb.
you can find them at hifisoundconnection.com
check out the class d mono for your sub.

 

[78K-5BLAZER]

i know the amps are not that good but i am on a tight budget the on only reason i am geting the 9600bhs is because they are under 200$ on ebay every eelss online they are like 256 where also the 6x9 i have listed are pretty pricey but can be had for under 100$ on ebay as well also am geting the sub there it is a package with the amp i have listed and a amp install kit for only 200$ and free shiping i am set on the head unit speaker and sub package but am open to opinions and sugjestions on a four channel analoge amp also for got to say i am use 10 awge speaker wire for the four 6x9s and the sub and 8 awge wire for the power wires for the amps thanks

 

[Massacre-77]

You can get a referb around that price just check out the link

 

[shady]

if the boss amps actually meet them specs at the THD stated then I'd go that route over the kickers myself too. Boss was CHIT a few years ago but they've gained a lot of ground. 0.01% is awesome.

 

[Greg72]

if the boss amps actually meet them specs at the THD stated then I'd go that route over the kickers myself too. Boss was CHIT a few years ago but they've gained a lot of ground. 0.01% is awesome.

Pure specsmanship.....

I guarantee that distortion rating isn't at full-frequency. It's probably only measured at 1000Hz or some other arbitrary value where it happens to perform well.

Anyone who buys an "1100W Amp" for $55 and thinks they're getting quality is falling for the marketing hype.



-G

 

[454Sub]

I run 4 Pioneer 6x9s on a old Pyramid 400watt amp, 4 Boston tweeters running of the Pioneer headunit amp, 2 Sony 4in rounds in the dash also running off the headunit, 2 JL 12s in a ported box running off a 1800watt older Rockford amp and it will shake a half dollar on the hood if I want it too. Honestly though, you can make an entire system bought from wallmart sound better than most with careful tuning, and a good use of either Dynomatt or equivalent, or simply heavily coating the floorpans with bedliner. Most peoples 5000$ systems sound like crap simply because they have zero clue on how to tune them correctly, and then on top of that the rattles from things inside make it sound worse than it should. I set mine up to have a seperate switch so I can turn the Rockford amp off by itself so it makes for much easier tuning without all the bass, then I would manually turn off all the speakers to tune the bass, then turn everything on and fine tune it together. Its very hard to tune it all together at first due to distortion from the bass interfering with your ability to hear your mids.


And lastly, dont listen to most of them idiots working in Best Buy selling this stuff, use your own ears and common sense. After all, that guy isnt going to be tuning or listening to it once you purchase it anyways.

 

[shady]

I run 4 Pioneer 6x9s on a old Pyramid 400watt amp, 4 Boston tweeters running of the Pioneer headunit amp, 2 Sony 4in rounds in the dash also running off the headunit, 2 JL 12s in a ported box running off a 1800watt older Rockford amp and it will shake a half dollar on the hood if I want it too. Honestly though, you can make an entire system bought from wallmart sound better than most with careful tuning, and a good use of either Dynomatt or equivalent, or simply heavily coating the floorpans with bedliner. Most peoples 5000$ systems sound like crap simply because they have zero clue on how to tune them correctly, and then on top of that the rattles from things inside make it sound worse than it should. I set mine up to have a seperate switch so I can turn the Rockford amp off by itself so it makes for much easier tuning without all the bass, then I would manually turn off all the speakers to tune the bass, then turn everything on and fine tune it together. Its very hard to tune it all together at first due to distortion from the bass interfering with your ability to hear your mids.


And lastly, dont listen to most of them idiots working in Best Buy selling this stuff, use your own ears and common sense. After all, that guy isnt going to be tuning or listening to it once you purchase it anyways.

couldn't have said it better myself

You can perform wonders just by simple speaker angle and placement... with subs its even more defined. The absolute best sounding SQ and bass system I've ever heard (frequented competitions and shops a lot) had infinity kappa's running off of kenwood deck power. With 2 15's and an amp that were bought off the net for $600.

That pioneer has a built in Mosfet amp. I wouldn't even put an amp on the full ranges. just a small A/b sub amp and call it good. you can always add an amp up front if you want but I bet you never will after running it for a bit.

 

[runamok151]

First off, if you have a choice, always use a round speaker instead of an oval. There's a reason pro audio components all use round drivers. Secondly, don't skimp on speakers. The speaker is what makes the sound. A good speaker driven by a cheap amp will sound better than a cheap speaker run by the best amp.

I'm w/ Shady on speaker placement. The proper speaker in the right spot makes all the difference. And if you do it right, you don't need to use a s*@tload of power to do it. You can put the best 6x9 and run it w' the best amp on the planet, but if you shoot it out under your legs from the bottom of the door, it will always sound muddy.

If you want clean sound, put a small mid range and tweeter up in the factory holes in the dash (I used 3 1/2" 2-way BA plates). They'll bounce off the glass giving you nice dispersion and nice clean highs. You could probably run these off the factory front high output, depending on the head unit. Then put a decent 6" on the door or kick panel for mids and some lows.

Mound your 6x9s (or my preference 2-way 6" rounds) in the side panel or in small speaker boxes mounted in front of the rear tire humps. If you use the boxes in front of the hump method, it leaves the side panel open for a 8" or 10" sub up front instead of all the way in the back of the truck.

One good amp, properly wired, could easily run the fronts and rears, w/ the sub(s) mono-bridged.

 

[78K-5BLAZER]

what you guys think of this amp only i do not like about it is it is not class a/b i dont want to bor anyone with a long post on the difference between class a/b and class d to keep it simpule iprefure as much decreat componients as posable not a fan of ics and a bunch of chips but anyway here is the amp and its specs Lanzar MAXP4260 Output power: 4 x 250 watts RMS at 4 ohms THD: <0.05% • S/N ratio: >95 dB • Channel separation: >65db Frequency response: 10 Hz- 40 kHz Dimensions: 10.16" W x 2.56" H x 12.8" L it cost 135$ and the 4ch boss i had listed earlyer is 100$ the lanzar has more then tw ice the wpc then the boss however theboss is class a/b with mosfet power suply and as for the thd rating for the boss it is at the rms watt rating do not know about the lanzars thd rating and afor comparing the db ratings i am not sure just want to know if the amp i have listed is any good or not and earlyer in the thread some one said since i have 6x9 cutuots in the doors i should put 6x9s in the back and now i am hearing i should put round speakers in the back if i do go round in the back you think 6-1/2s will do good thanks

 

[82355]

You really need to look into punctuation and capitalization.

Martin

 

[rampage]

You really need to look into punctuation and capitalization.

Martin

Along with spell checking and proofreading.

And here's a few more periods just in case you ran out ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................