K5 Steering questions

[pplblazerdude]

I have a 88 k5 that I have recently put one ton axles under it. Lockers front and rear and 38/13r16 tsl's.

I am using the sky offroad crossover steering and have the front axle pushed forward 1.5 inches.

Currently I have a weld in steering brace.

The issue I am having, on pavement I can not turn the tires. The way I see it I have two options. Either take my pump off and mod it and see if this will help it or do this and install hydro assist as well.

Well while looking over this I have noticed that my frame twists while trying to steer. What would be a good way to negate this? Any thoughts advice or pictures would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Clint

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

A bolt in steering box brace will help the flex at the frame but what you really need to fix both problems is hydro assist. That will give you the power to steer the tires and will take a lot of the stress off of the frame.

 

[Fordum]

Currently I have a weld in steering brace.

I think this should take care of the need for a bolt in.....


I'm wondering if something is binding, or if your bypass spring in the pump is weak. The ram will do wonders, but stock ought to at least try to move them.

 

[dremu]

I think this should take care of the need for a bolt in.....

Every now and again your lack of Chevy experience bites you in the ass

The weld-in brace patches the frame where it often cracks ... but the bolt-in is a cross-member that triangulates the frame to prevent the cracking from the gitgo. They are not mutually exclusive and in fact work well together.

-- A

 

[Fordum]

Every now and again your lack of Chevy experience bites you in the ass

The weld-in brace patches the frame where it often cracks ... but the bolt-in is a cross-member that triangulates the frame to prevent the cracking from the gitgo. They are not mutually exclusive and in fact work well together.

-- A

Yep, when I first started hearing about those, I looked them up on some site.
As I remembered it, both the weld in and the bolt in did the same bracing, but the weld in was for when the frame was already cracked.

Having never installed one, or even had one in my hand, I went with my memory.
It does not fail me often, but in this case it did.

Thanks.

 

[dremu]

Yep, when I first started hearing about those, I looked them up on some site.
As I remembered it, both the weld in and the bolt in did the same bracing, but the weld in was for when the frame was already cracked.

Having never installed one, or even had one in my hand, I went with my memory.
It does not fail me often, but in this case it did.

Thanks.

Further detail for all ... the weld-on goes on the outside of the frame where the steering box bolts on (which is what cracks when the steering box twists but the wheels don't.) The bolt-in gizmo goes inside the frame from the box to the crossmember, triangulating and strengthening that junction.

Every brand has their lousy designed bits ... Chebbies have 4WD frames and the &%^$&*@^$@ dizzy at the back of the engine...

-- A

 

[Gunny65]

Go with hydro assist. I used the surplus method meaning I built my own. It works great. I will never willingly go back to standard steering.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Yep, when I first started hearing about those, I looked them up on some site.
As I remembered it, both the weld in and the bolt in did the same bracing, but the weld in was for when the frame was already cracked.

Having never installed one, or even had one in my hand, I went with my memory.
It does not fail me often, but in this case it did.

Thanks.

The weld on brace is great for a damaged frame, it is extra insurance to make sure that the cracks won't open up again. Adding a weld on brace makes the frame thicker where it counts.

The bolt on brace really adds support where it's needed, 90 degrees from the steering box. The bolt in box brace has better support but it doesn't help your frame if it's already cracked.

Pretty much every solid axle Chevy needs a bolt in brace (you'd be amazed at how many 2WD box braces we go through ) but the weld in is mostly for damaged frames or under heavy use. It's definitely a good idea if your frame is cracked but the bolt on brace usually does a good job of preventing future cracks if your frame hasn't cracked yet.

 

[blazin' j]

^^^what he said...

 

[wakeup]

(All of the above) is why I like this forum! I ripped the steering box off my k10 a few years ago. Fixed it with the weld on plate, and called it a day. I didn't even know about the bolt in brace that goes to the cross member. I will definately be researching and purchasing one of those soon!

 

[pplblazerdude]

So from what has been said so far is I need to go ahead and get a bolt in brace.

Then I guess it is time to look into hydro assist. Well to be honest I have been thinking about it because it drives me nuts when the front end gets bound up and I can not steer it.

Now the question is ram size. I am thinking 1.5 inch since I still street drive the truck and do not want to loose the ability to do this. I know this has been discussed a thousand times, I am just thinking out loud.

Does anyone have a good link for tapping the steering box? I am on the fence on either tapping the box or buying the cap. My only issue with buying the cap is it really makes the lines vulnerable to damage since the line come out the front of the steering box.

Thanks

Clint

 

[TDAWG1]

(All of the above) is why I like this forum! I ripped the steering box off my k10 a few years ago. Fixed it with the weld on plate, and called it a day. I didn't even know about the bolt in brace that goes to the cross member. I will definately be researching and purchasing one of those soon!

Box Brace is worth it I can honestly say That if I didnt have one I would have Broken my Frame all the way through, The Frame Cracked three times and yes does still Move but the Brace distributes the Load Better and Reenforces the Steering Box Area, Which thats where my Cracks were.
I am sure that those Cracks would have lead to catastrofick Failure with out the Box Brace from (ORD) Recently I added the Frame Repair Kit and NOW ITs much NICE, Couple more Modifications and it will be 100 % worry free i.e. Hydro assist Couple of welds and Tubes etc. But if you have these issues call Stephen, Chris and almost anyone at ORD and get what you need.

In case you dont know 970-945-7777

 

[pplblazerdude]

Box Brace is worth it I can honestly say That if I didnt have one I would have Broken my Frame all the way through, The Frame Cracked three times and yes does still Move but the Brace distributes the Load Better and Reenforces the Steering Box Area, Which thats where my Cracks were.
I am sure that those Cracks would have lead to catastrofick Failure with out the Box Brace from (ORD) Recently I added the Frame Repair Kit and NOW ITs much NICE, Couple more Modifications and it will be 100 % worry free i.e. Hydro assist Couple of welds and Tubes etc. But if you have these issues call Stephen, Chris and almost anyone at ORD and get what you need.

In case you dont know 970-945-7777

What you mean a couple of tubes? You bracing the frame with some tubing? Doing a engine cage to go with a full roll cage? Or speaking towards Hydro?

I am sure when I get the brace and hydro it will make a huge difference but will it stop the frame twist or majorly reduce it? I do not want to trash another frame. I am on my second frame.

 

[wakeup]

ORD Bolt in Steering Box Brace

Box Brace is worth it...

...I am sure that those Cracks would have lead to catastrofick Failure with out the Box Brace from (ORD)...

....But if you have these issues call Stephen, Chris and almost anyone at ORD and get what you need.

In case you dont know 970-945-7777

Thanks TDAWG1, I went straight to the ORD website and checked it out. I will be ordering that and probably more when I get back to North Carolina! I believe it speaks volumes of a business to have their work recommended in this way on a forum, buy a long time member. I even sent them an email and told them how excited I was to find their products on this forum.

 

[owenst7]

So from what has been said so far is I need to go ahead and get a bolt in brace.

Then I guess it is time to look into hydro assist. Well to be honest I have been thinking about it because it drives me nuts when the front end gets bound up and I can not steer it.

Now the question is ram size. I am thinking 1.5 inch since I still street drive the truck and do not want to loose the ability to do this. I know this has been discussed a thousand times, I am just thinking out loud.

Does anyone have a good link for tapping the steering box? I am on the fence on either tapping the box or buying the cap. My only issue with buying the cap is it really makes the lines vulnerable to damage since the line come out the front of the steering box.

Thanks

Clint

Most guys around here (myself included) run this ram. https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7258-8&catname=hydraulic

I personally went with tapped caps because they are less vulnerable that way. Tapping the side of the box leaves the fittings vulnerable to the tire when steering under suspension compression. The sector cap fitting is inside the engine compartment, and the end cap fitting is under my radiator and 90*s behind the front of my front spring.

 

[jekquistk5]

Most guys around here (myself included) run this ram. https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7258-8&catname=hydraulic

I personally went with tapped caps because they are less vulnerable that way. Tapping the side of the box leaves the fittings vulnerable to the tire when steering under suspension compression. The sector cap fitting is inside the engine compartment, and the end cap fitting is under my radiator and 90*s behind the front of my front spring.

Its not really a deal after you put the time in turning the ends so the ports are facing the correct direction. For 80 more dollars you get the tabs, adjustable and replaceable heims, and its ready to go from psc. Yes the surplus center is a good alternative if you have the lathe to cut the welds and turn them, but I think its a better value to go psc. I would however order the lines from Surplus center.

 

[owenst7]

Its not really a deal after you put the time in turning the ends so the ports are facing the correct direction. For 80 more dollars you get the tabs, adjustable and replaceable heims, and its ready to go from psc. Yes the surplus center is a good alternative if you have the lathe to cut the welds and turn them, but I think its a better value to go psc. I would however order the lines from Surplus center.

Only took me about 20 minutes with a cutting wheel in my grinder and a steady hand...

If PSC made a 1.5" ram that had a 1" rod for $170, I might consider spending the extra money, otherwise I'll run this for ten years till the swivels wear out. It's not like they are moving hardly at all, so there's not really a significant amount of wear.

And I never actually said it was a deal, just pointed out that that is the ram a ton of people around here and Pirate have used with positive results. Nobody said anything about PSC or that the SC is the best ram out there. I think that ram is popular because of its specs, not necessarily because it's the most super awesome and sparkly ram out there. There's a lot of complaints on heavy trucks about bending a .75" rod which most 1.5" steering rams have, but most guys that still drive on the street want the 1.5" ram for quick response.

Honestly for lines and fittings, I am much happier going to one of my local hydraulic shops. Having a good relationship with the employees there helps me out all the time with other stuff, and I can usually get stuff cheaper anyway. Not to mention I can get field-repairable hose ends. I hadn't thought about it, but you might be able to get a custom ram from a place like that for about $100. It's not rocket science really.

 

[TDAWG1]

What you mean a couple of tubes? You bracing the frame with some tubing? Doing a engine cage to go with a full roll cage? Or speaking towards Hydro?

I am sure when I get the brace and hydro it will make a huge difference but will it stop the frame twist or majorly reduce it? I do not want to trash another frame. I am on my second frame.

I am going to Put a cage in and that will help but... I am putting some Tube Work in and its just two Pieces. A Chevy Frame is Kinda Chinsey and there for MAde to Bend and Twist and Stretch quite a bit. So yes it will only Quiet the Beast. But well Worth it, It will Literally stop it from Breaking. of course that part may or may not b my opinion, From what I have seen it is a Huge help.

 

[jekquistk5]

Only took me about 20 minutes with a cutting wheel in my grinder and a steady hand...

If PSC made a 1.5" ram that had a 1" rod for $170, I might consider spending the extra money, otherwise I'll run this for ten years till the swivels wear out. It's not like they are moving hardly at all, so there's not really a significant amount of wear.

And I never actually said it was a deal, just pointed out that that is the ram a ton of people around here and Pirate have used with positive results. Nobody said anything about PSC or that the SC is the best ram out there. I think that ram is popular because of its specs, not necessarily because it's the most super awesome and sparkly ram out there. There's a lot of complaints on heavy trucks about bending a .75" rod which most 1.5" steering rams have, but most guys that still drive on the street want the 1.5" ram for quick response.

Honestly for lines and fittings, I am much happier going to one of my local hydraulic shops. Having a good relationship with the employees there helps me out all the time with other stuff, and I can usually get stuff cheaper anyway. Not to mention I can get field-repairable hose ends. I hadn't thought about it, but you might be able to get a custom ram from a place like that for about $100. It's not rocket science really.

I agree, I was simply pointing out my frame of mind in ordering.