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K5 Sye driveshaft donor

Tyler Hart

Tyler Hart

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Hey guys I'm in the process of putting a SYE kit on my np 241c transfer case and I'm going to need a cv driveshaft. Is the a donor shaft that I should look for that I can bolt in or possibly have shortened? I will be buying one from Tom woods but would like to have a spare for the trails. I'm running a 700r4 with the 241c going to a 14 BFF. Thanks for any and all info.
 
I had to buy a new one from Tom Woods. I'm not aware of a direct bolt in. With varying heights of lift and different flanged ends, too many variables.
 
Has anyone ever tried to use a driveshaft from a bronco? I know that they're cv driveshafts from factory
 
Tyler Hart said:
Hey guys I'm in the process of putting a SYE kit on my np 241c transfer case and I'm going to need a cv driveshaft. Is the a donor shaft that I should look for that I can bolt in or possibly have shortened? I will be buying one from Tom woods but would like to have a spare for the trails. I'm running a 700r4 with the 241c going to a 14 BFF. Thanks for any and all info.
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Which flange/yoke did you end up with? There are two(three?) the JB kit can come with, pretty sure there was mention that some of the later Ford stuff (Excursion for one) would have the right end to mate with ONE of the flanges you could get with the JB kit. Doubt any will be the proper length.

I had a front 241 flange machined to fit the rear for $70, it saved quite in bit in the cost of the CV, so I bought the JB kit sans yoke. Driveline guy swears it will hold up for my purposes, if it doesn't, he knows I'm coming back! I had a lot of back and forth trying to decide which route to take, the options are kind of murky but in the end what I came up with was, all options were relatively expensive.
 
I'm not sure what flange my kit has to be honest. I'll have to measure to find you. I know nothing will probably be a bolt on swap however having one shortened and balanced would be cheaper then buying a second driveshaft. I'm only looking to get back to the trailer with it haha.
 
I had to wait a long time until JB had those kits back in stock, so the whole time waiting I tried to figure out which flange/joint would work best, and never really could. Ended up getting the kit, installing it in the case, having a front 241 flange machined for the rear, and the case sitting in my garage for a ~year, and still not having installed it or a shaft made.

I can see the value of a cheap trail spare. For that, you might get away with doing the shortening yourself, since balance wouldn't be very critical.
 
Tyler Hart said:
Thanks for the input! And how exactly did this save you in the cv cost?
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The JB kit was something like $50 less without a yoke/flange. I already had the front flange, and it was $70 to machine it, which IIRC is about what JB charges for their yokes/flanges depending on which you pick. Would be really nice if they offered the kit with a machined front output flange for the rear with their kits. AFAIK there is nothing out there that is a bolt-in with the SYE kit that will mate to the front CV.

I SHOULD be able to have my current shaft cut down and new CV just welded in, and front CV's are relatively cheap. Can't remember what he quoted me on CV cost alone, but he said for a complete shaft if I had to go that route, it would be $400. If I went with anything else it would almost certainly require tubing and slip splined section which would have increased the cost. Can't really find a price for the complete front CV's online now, but at least with his prices, the front CV was the cheapest option. It may not have been significant, but it's fairly brainless once the flange is machined.

Not to mention, for the future, the rebuild kits and replacements of the CV will be cheaper.

I'm sure you can junkyard a solution cheaper, but I just don't have the time anymore. I enjoy going to the 'yards, but there are fewer around, many don't let you do your own investigating, and again, I'd rather be working on the truck as opposed to looking for parts.

Post #4 here talks about some Dodge apps that use the same flange: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy/2057690-241c-sye-yoke-option.html#post31510538
 
Just installed the JB SYE kit with 1350 flange. The flange has many hole configurations in it. I got my cv shaft from tom woods with the F4 CV flange. Download the Tom Woods measuring guide it helped me.
 
nbrown2500 said:
Just installed the JB SYE kit with 1350 flange. The flange has many hole configurations in it. I got my cv shaft from tom woods with the F4 CV flange. Download the Tom Woods measuring guide it helped me.
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I also got somewhat fed up with trying to get an answer from driveshaft places about which flange/yoke I should order with the SYE kit in regards to which CV I'd eventually end up running. Not really their fault or job, but since they couldn't recommend which flange, I had no idea which CV I'd end up having to run. I knew this flange would work with the front CV, so it saved additional hassle with my brain. :)
 
Thought a read somewhere that the front driveshaft was a 3r cv and not a 1310, anyone know if this is true?
 
I saw this before, and didn't even contemplate the possibilities with that.

Is there any reason with the SYE kits, that you couldn't take that Neapco piece, and just cut it down to the right length for the SYE kit? Assuming the center hole isn't too large already? Can't recall what the 241 SYE thread diameter is.

More expensive than the machining I had done, but if you don't have the flange already, that would be a cheaper way to get there I'm thinking.
 
dyeager535: Are you refering to the center hole in the Neapco part i used? If so there is no hole. I had to drill one so if im following you correctly then ya i don't see anything wrong with your idea.
 
Fancy said:
dyeager535: Are you refering to the center hole in the Neapco part i used? If so there is no hole. I had to drill one so if im following you correctly then ya i don't see anything wrong with your idea.
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Ahh ok, yep, you got it.

Thinking about it though, it won't work. :( GM used a different spline on the front and rear 241 outputs. JB SYE kits use the same spline on the output as the front output, so thats why the stock front flange swaps onto the rear JB SYE output.
 
dyeager535 said:
I already had the front flange, and it was $70 to machine it
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What machining was required to put a front flange on the new rear output? On my 208 I'm running 2 stock front flanges. Is the thread on the output shaft a larger diameter on a 241 SYE? I thought all of these 208 and 241 outputs were 32-spline.
 
I can't recall if the problem was the amount of threads exposed was insufficient, or the fact that by design (not saying it's the only way to do it, just the way NP did) the nut is supposed to somewhat crush the splined gasket. I've got a stock 241 front flange, I could check at some point if the issue was thread engagement and gasket, or just gasket.

The flange is just too long as-is, since it bottoms out. Don't think I took measurements of it, just realized the issue and took the 241 with SYE in it down to the driveline guy, he made a couple measurements, and took out some material from the nut side of the flange.
 
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