I got the computer pulled and cut all wires that went from the computer to any plugs in the engine bay. I still have some wires that go from the computer harness to the firewall that I’ll eventually cut. Those I’ll consider extra for now. I found all the wires that I know I want to keep except the horn. It wasn’t hooked up when I got it so who knows where that wire is or what it looks like. I need to get a battery and wires to hook up the starter and alternator and get a wire to the fuse block then I can start testing any extra wires and figure out which ones are always hot, which ones are keyed hot, and delete the rest. When I figure that out I can use them to hook up the dizzy and fuel pump. Anyone know what size battery i need. I thought I remember it being 78 but maybe it was 75? Looking at odyssey. I’ve heard good things about them.
CK5
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K5 wiring
- Thread starter Jake_C_
- Start date
78 for side terminal. 75 is to small
While you’re at it, get a dual terminal version, side post for the truck and top post for a winch.
Ok cool, I do have the 73-80 battery tray. Not sure if that makes a difference
No that tray will fit either of the side post group 24 and group 34, 35 might be to tall. A group 27 will fit with a little massaging of tray lip
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Parts store has a yellow top size 34 with side and top terminals in stock, probably go for that one.
Alright I need some help again, what’s the proper way to wire up the starter and alternator? My positive cable has 3 leads, 2 red one black.
For the ground I’m doing battery to frame, frame to motor. And braided strap from motor to body.
I don’t remember how the starter and solenoid get wired and I don’t remember how the alternator gets wired. I assume the white wire on the alternator goes back to the gauge?
For the ground I’m doing battery to frame, frame to motor. And braided strap from motor to body.
I don’t remember how the starter and solenoid get wired and I don’t remember how the alternator gets wired. I assume the white wire on the alternator goes back to the gauge?
All nice and clean 
So the positive batt cable to top 3/8ths inch lug on solenoid, this also should have your fuse links that feed 12v hot to fuse block and buss bar on firewall. Alt should get 12v batt from the buss bar on firewall. Mine is driver side of distributor near top edge. Youll want 10g wire to your alt, 8g if 140 amps or bigger.
On the starter solenoid the small block side stud gets the start signal wire from ign via neutral safety switch. purple 12 or 10 gauge wire
So the positive batt cable to top 3/8ths inch lug on solenoid, this also should have your fuse links that feed 12v hot to fuse block and buss bar on firewall. Alt should get 12v batt from the buss bar on firewall. Mine is driver side of distributor near top edge. Youll want 10g wire to your alt, 8g if 140 amps or bigger.On the starter solenoid the small block side stud gets the start signal wire from ign via neutral safety switch. purple 12 or 10 gauge wire
Yeah everything is new, that’s part of the reason I have no idea where anything goes lol. Ok so battery to big stud on solenoid. Nss to engine side small stud on solenoid. Looks like the black positive wire with the boot is meant to go to the stud on the alternator. I still have two wires that I labeled alternator in my wiring harness, one red and one brown. I assume those go the the plug on the alternator. That leaves me one positive from battery. Does that feed the buss bar and fuse block? Not sure if I have a buss bar tbh.All nice and clean
On the starter solenoid the small block side stud gets the start signal wire from ign via neutral safety switch. purple 12 or 10 gauge wire
Ok I think I’ve got it, correct me if I’m wrong. Did a little tracing and I think I have it figured out. I guess this is the buss bar?
So big wire on the right is a feed from the battery, small wire on the right is fused and goes to the fuse block. Big wire on the left goes inside near the heater box, not sure what that goes to. So if that’s all right then the only question I have is does the starter get grounded and is the second small terminal on the solenoid used for anything.
So big wire on the right is a feed from the battery, small wire on the right is fused and goes to the fuse block. Big wire on the left goes inside near the heater box, not sure what that goes to. So if that’s all right then the only question I have is does the starter get grounded and is the second small terminal on the solenoid used for anything.
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yes that is the bus bar and should be hot at all times. the second small solenoid terminal used in the old olden days supply 12v to the coil while cranking. we don't need that any more. So leave that termial stud empty. Not sure where that second red wire into dash near heater is going either.
ground the battery to the block or head, avoid the exhaust manifold bolts. add a ground block to frame and block or frame to firewall/rad support
ground the battery to the block or head, avoid the exhaust manifold bolts. add a ground block to frame and block or frame to firewall/rad support
Thanks so much dude, much appreciated.
Ok I got most wires in the engine bay loomed up and routed fairly cleanly. Most everything is hooked up except the distributer. I need to go through the mess of extra wires that went to and from the ecm and figure out which one is keyed power. There’s a 10 gauge pink wire in the mess and I’m willing to bet it’s keyed hot. So I guess I just run one wire to the distributer? I bought this pigtail connector to fit it and it had two wires. Is one for a tac?
im going to do a toggle switch to bypass the nss. I know the purple wire goes to the solenoid. Anyone know which one is the feed wire in this harness?
Last question. Anyone know what color wires I need to run to the transmission for the reverse lights switch?
im going to do a toggle switch to bypass the nss. I know the purple wire goes to the solenoid. Anyone know which one is the feed wire in this harness?
Last question. Anyone know what color wires I need to run to the transmission for the reverse lights switch?
The large guage wires are the start solenoid circuit and the other 2 wires are the reverse switch. Iirc.
one of those two wires is tach. I would have said green is tach. To me the green wire is in the wrong cavity. I like the 12v keyed hot in the front cavity on the cap and the rear for the tach.
Last pic doesn't look familiar to me, so you will need to double check what I am guessing. the purple is the start signal to starter. 1 or both of the red wires will hot. I believe the brown wire is your reverse lights. Make a fused jumper 15 amps is good. jump power to brown and see if light are on
Last pic doesn't look familiar to me, so you will need to double check what I am guessing. the purple is the start signal to starter. 1 or both of the red wires will hot. I believe the brown wire is your reverse lights. Make a fused jumper 15 amps is good. jump power to brown and see if light are on
@Wes Harden @onetonbb74 ok my bad, that’s not the harness for the nss. I saw a purple wire and the plug looked kind of like the right shape but it looks like these two separate ones plug into the nss.
So I just need to run the blue and green wire down to the transmission pigtails and they should be good to go. Then put a toggle switch between the orange and black. Right? The red wire for the distributer plug is bigger so I’d say it’s definitely meant to be 12v keyed but that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s on the right side. I bought that plug separate and although it fits it doesnt necessarily go to this specific distributer, so it could be backwards. I’ll have to check on the dizzy itself.
So I just need to run the blue and green wire down to the transmission pigtails and they should be good to go. Then put a toggle switch between the orange and black. Right? The red wire for the distributer plug is bigger so I’d say it’s definitely meant to be 12v keyed but that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s on the right side. I bought that plug separate and although it fits it doesnt necessarily go to this specific distributer, so it could be backwards. I’ll have to check on the dizzy itself.
distributor wiring I may have it backwards now that I think about more. use it the way it is. The orange and black with white don't look like nss wiring. I am not sure what. The blue and light green are reverse light. yes the blue and green to each side of the reverse switch on trans. Blue hot key on, lt green to bulbs
I checked on the dizzy and it’s labeled so the pigtails are correct. I’m confused on the nss wiring then because it looks like the right connector and is the same length as the reverse lights and taped together with the reverse lights. I’ll look more into it in the morning.
It may be correct, been since 87 when I was under the dash of late model square, and it was new car warranty. Not gmt400.
I have a 90 gmc g20 and the wiring for the nss is the same color so I’ll go ahead and splice them into the toggle switch.
