CK5
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This came up on my IG feed and made me think of the air cleaner discussion. Dyno tested flipping the lid of a stock Gm truck air cleaner. +7hp at the wheels more flipped than not flipped.
Great find! That shows that small opening on a standard 350ci is causing some restriction.
Motivational picture off book of face
Love those stripes!Motivational picture off book of face
Been dragging my ass on this due to other projects.
Got some rust repair done. As you know, the areas behind the rear wheels are notorious. Unfortunately I found a spot on the drivers side floor. Cory Ratcliffe helped me out on this.
Tried some 33's with 15x10 wheels but they were too big with the stock springs and had to put the smaller tires back on. Ordered some 2.5" springs and will be using 15x8 OEM white wagon wheels soon.
Got some rust repair done. As you know, the areas behind the rear wheels are notorious. Unfortunately I found a spot on the drivers side floor. Cory Ratcliffe helped me out on this.
Tried some 33's with 15x10 wheels but they were too big with the stock springs and had to put the smaller tires back on. Ordered some 2.5" springs and will be using 15x8 OEM white wagon wheels soon.
Got the period correct bumper on it. Previous owner had 81+ front bumper on it for some reason. Looks way better. Will have to take it off for paint but for now it can stay on. Also installed the new hood. Chassis and engine pressure washed so I can go to town with some satin black paint and get the engine back to blue.
Are rpo codes still in glove box ?
If so I'd like to know the code for the brownish part of 2 tone.
Lookin Good
If so I'd like to know the code for the brownish part of 2 tone.
Lookin Good
Yes sir. Its a dark red color but the outside paint is in bad shape and doesn't look like a "red". 71 Metallic red is what the SPID shows:Are rpo codes still in glove box ?
If so I'd like to know the code for the brownish part of 2 tone.
Lookin Good
Very cool ty
The rear NP203 seal put up a good fight but I finally won. I had to take the rear housing off but it finally came out. This looks to he the original seal and the rubber is rock hard and brittle. Did a little clean up on the housing while I had it off.
Seal part number at Advance Auto Part # 473204
Outside Diameter: 2.754 in
Inside Diameter: 2.125 in
Seal part number at Advance Auto Part # 473204
Outside Diameter: 2.754 in
Inside Diameter: 2.125 in
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Had to tackle the rear brakes on this. The front brakes are all new thanks to PO but the rear is unknown and I was hearing a slight grinding sound in the back.
Tried to remove them one night for inspection. First thing I noticed is that 2 of the studs on each corner still had the factory locking clips which leads me to believe that these drums have never been off since 1978 and these are the original brake shoes and also tells me this K5 has 79k original miles. Another sign is the brake pedal pad is not worn on the right like they usually are at higher miles. Normally those clips are not re-installed after a brake job and its my understanding that the main purpose of those clips are for the assembly line so the rotors do not fall off when going through down the line. Its almost impossible to not destroy or distort the round locking clips when removing them and these clips look like they have never been touched.
After getting the clips off and destroying them, I soon realized the drums were not coming off that easy. Those MF's would not come off even when I pulled out the BFH and I was going at it hard enough that I was either going to mess up the bearings or distort the drums. Also to note- I may have lost some hearing that night...
Plan B- I finally ordered the correct drum puller which looks like this:
Picture above is not mine but taken from this video:
The puller got them both off quickly even though the drums had a ridge on the back and the tool pulled it across the shoes with no issue. I was pretty impressed with the tool making quick work for removing. After getting the drivers side off, I soon found where the sound was coming from. Worn down to the rivets which caused some deep grooves in the drums and are not salvageable. On top of that, it looks like a spiders nest inside:
What the Helly?
Other side wasn't so bad and the drum was in much better shape. No grooves and just starting to touch the rivets.
Ended up getting all new stuff at NAPA since they had everything in stock and was close by. Also they do online coupons now which helps with $$$. Got new shoes, all hardware and 2 new drums. I would have had the drums turned if they were both in better shape but with the one being so bad, it was worth it to me to just buy new and have matching drums plus my time was limited that day. As you know, turning drums requires more down time since you have to drop them off and they usually take up to 4 hours if they can do them that day then go pick them up. NAPA stocks the brake hardware in 3 different part numbers which I would suggest. Both of my bottom spreaders were seized up and I didn't feel like trying to clean and restore those. I also noted I have 2.75" wide brakes which NAPA did carry. Part Part #: FLT FT473. When I searched other parts stores , they only carry the 2" wide brake pads so good thing to keep in mind and always measure your shoes width and double check. The cheaper ones are bonded and the more expensive are HD and riveted. I got the bonded. Part numbers for pads and brake hardware below:
I always forget how much FUN drum brakes are to do. I did find a decent video which is great reference for me since I rarely replace drum brakes these days. I ALWAYS forget which spring goes where so it helps having some reference and having colored springs. I did not replace the wheel cylinders since they were not leaking (yet) but now is the best time to do that for peace of mind. Something I would consider if I had to do it again.
Helpful video guide here:
Tried to remove them one night for inspection. First thing I noticed is that 2 of the studs on each corner still had the factory locking clips which leads me to believe that these drums have never been off since 1978 and these are the original brake shoes and also tells me this K5 has 79k original miles. Another sign is the brake pedal pad is not worn on the right like they usually are at higher miles. Normally those clips are not re-installed after a brake job and its my understanding that the main purpose of those clips are for the assembly line so the rotors do not fall off when going through down the line. Its almost impossible to not destroy or distort the round locking clips when removing them and these clips look like they have never been touched.
After getting the clips off and destroying them, I soon realized the drums were not coming off that easy. Those MF's would not come off even when I pulled out the BFH and I was going at it hard enough that I was either going to mess up the bearings or distort the drums. Also to note- I may have lost some hearing that night...
Plan B- I finally ordered the correct drum puller which looks like this:
Picture above is not mine but taken from this video:
The puller got them both off quickly even though the drums had a ridge on the back and the tool pulled it across the shoes with no issue. I was pretty impressed with the tool making quick work for removing. After getting the drivers side off, I soon found where the sound was coming from. Worn down to the rivets which caused some deep grooves in the drums and are not salvageable. On top of that, it looks like a spiders nest inside:
What the Helly?
Other side wasn't so bad and the drum was in much better shape. No grooves and just starting to touch the rivets.
Ended up getting all new stuff at NAPA since they had everything in stock and was close by. Also they do online coupons now which helps with $$$. Got new shoes, all hardware and 2 new drums. I would have had the drums turned if they were both in better shape but with the one being so bad, it was worth it to me to just buy new and have matching drums plus my time was limited that day. As you know, turning drums requires more down time since you have to drop them off and they usually take up to 4 hours if they can do them that day then go pick them up. NAPA stocks the brake hardware in 3 different part numbers which I would suggest. Both of my bottom spreaders were seized up and I didn't feel like trying to clean and restore those. I also noted I have 2.75" wide brakes which NAPA did carry. Part Part #: FLT FT473. When I searched other parts stores , they only carry the 2" wide brake pads so good thing to keep in mind and always measure your shoes width and double check. The cheaper ones are bonded and the more expensive are HD and riveted. I got the bonded. Part numbers for pads and brake hardware below:
- Important Information: w/ 11 5/32" X 2 3/4" Brakes
I always forget how much FUN drum brakes are to do. I did find a decent video which is great reference for me since I rarely replace drum brakes these days. I ALWAYS forget which spring goes where so it helps having some reference and having colored springs. I did not replace the wheel cylinders since they were not leaking (yet) but now is the best time to do that for peace of mind. Something I would consider if I had to do it again.
Helpful video guide here:
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Nice write up and pics.
The last drums I worked were a 14bff. Everything was rusted and many parts we’re sacrificed, I didn’t care because I was swapping to discs.
I usually take both drums off, then do one side at at time, leaving the other for reference if needed.
The last drums I worked were a 14bff. Everything was rusted and many parts we’re sacrificed, I didn’t care because I was swapping to discs.
I usually take both drums off, then do one side at at time, leaving the other for reference if needed.
Thanks! I try to post up some info hoping it might help the next guy doing these jigsaw drum brake puzzles. Hard to find info on the older brake drum stuff and part numbers. I did the same thing and only took apart one corner at time along with more pictures. But with the video, I didn't need to reference anything in pictures or on the other side and gave a nice how to if you forgot what goes where and putting together the star wheel arms. It did go over some front brake stuff which I skipped through. I think the puller I got might fit over 14 FF drums too but don't have any to try at the moment.
If I ever have to pull the drums on my 14bff again it’s getting discs. Screw those heavy things.
Although the worse was a 2002 4Runner I had. Original shoes and drums at 220k miles when I bought it. And the adjuster and hardware was frozen. Hours with a hammer and torch working those off. I hate drums.
Although the worse was a 2002 4Runner I had. Original shoes and drums at 220k miles when I bought it. And the adjuster and hardware was frozen. Hours with a hammer and torch working those off. I hate drums.
Yeah they can sure SUCK to deal with especially with lots of miles and rust. I'm glad this is a Texas K5 so the rust isn't that bad. I couldn't imagine if this was from the rust belt. Drum brakes can be a PITA especially if you are new to working on this kind of stuff. I was having a few cuss word moments myself trying to get it all back together.
This tool does help-
My brother in law inherited his dad's tools from when he was a GM tech called me over to help him figure out what half the stuff was.
2" front springs installed. Still need to lift the rear with some blocks so its doing the Carolina Squat right now. Its worse on the drivers side since I think I have a bad rear spring pack and there is a 2" lean towards the drivers side. I went and ordered a new spring pack from General Spring today and should have it in 2 days. On the rear blocks, I decided to go 3" steel since it has the typical K5 squat and I wanted to level it out. The RC kit came with 2" plastic/nylon blocks which I'd rather not use.
Also looks WAY better without the pizza cutter tires with the wrong offset of wheels. 33x12.5 are perfect on 15x8 Rallys for this build. May switch to BFG K02 with factory wagon wheels later. These low mile Coopers took A LOT of weight to balance. Not impressed.
Passenger side:
Saggy ass Drivers side:
Also looks WAY better without the pizza cutter tires with the wrong offset of wheels. 33x12.5 are perfect on 15x8 Rallys for this build. May switch to BFG K02 with factory wagon wheels later. These low mile Coopers took A LOT of weight to balance. Not impressed.
Passenger side:
Saggy ass Drivers side:
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