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kind of a newbie question... zerorate up front forward 1" dragling & DS ?

jjlaughner

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kind of a newbie question... zerorate up front forward 1\" dragling & DS ?

OK here's the deal... on the DD the rear sits just a hair low after the 4" BDS front and rear spring lift. Current setup is 4" front springs and 4" rear springs with a zerorate in the rear (and it still sits low). Bought some 2.5" tapered blocks for the rear and I want to pull the zerorate and the shim out replace them with the 2.5" block.

Now to the questions. IF I put my zerorates up front to push the front axle forward do I just turn the draglink in about an inch? Also I have a front driveshaft spacer and with the axle another inch forward I dont think its going to be long enough still.

Reasoning behind doing the zerorate up front is, we where playing around trying to get some pics and I put the passengers side tire into the fender pretty hard (NO TRIMMING, this is on the daily driver, its not even a consideration). We where pulling off a small drop off and the truck got up a few degrees and started felling tipsy so I turned into it and heard the RRRRRR RRRRR RRRRR thump thump thump. Luckly I have a diamond plate mud flap and it took part of the rubbing and didn't damage the fender other than bowing it out just a hair and wrinkling the inner lip of the fender above the mudflap where it was getting pushed up, the mud flap was also taco'd slightly around the lip of the fender /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif


ANYHOW! Drag link... just shorten it? Driveshaft... just lenghten & smooth the cv ears on it and loose the spacer and probley clearence the crossmember and exhaust ypipe? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
Or just leave it since its a DD? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif

Still looking for a good 10bolt 4.56 R&P or a 6lug 12/14sf rear with 4.56's close to indiana /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Re: kind of a newbie question... zerorate up front forward 1\" dragling & DS ?

Seems like there's plunty of room but man it moves back alot /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
frontwheelwell1.jpg


will this 1" forward messup my furd tower location any?
 
Re: kind of a newbie question... zerorate up front forward 1\" dragling & DS ?

If you are happy with your height, you can move the axle 1" foreward, just drill a new 1/2" in hole in the spring pad to locate the centering pin, then a 3/4" hole in the spring plate one inch back. I think that shortening the drag link will make the steering a LOT worse off road.
 
Re: kind of a newbie question... zerorate up front forward 1\" dragling & DS ?

I think that no matter what you do, you're going to rub with 35s and no trimming. There is just no way to get a 35 all the way into the fenders without rubbing if they're not trimmed.

I suggest bumpstops to limit uptravel to where it will not eat up the fenders and leave the axle location alone.

Rene runs his axle 1.25" forward with the front to back draglink though.
 
Re: kind of a newbie question... zerorate up front forward 1\" dragling & DS ?

while shortening the draglink may not do any good, leaving it long would be worse. there are few things that will piss you off more than a truck that will only turn right.
 
Re: kind of a newbie question... zerorate up front forward 1\" dragling & DS ?

I moved my axle foward 1.5...But tommorow now I have to move it back to stock so I can use a bent drag link..(temp thing till I can afford the rebuild on the 60) I have a 3-4" steering arm and with the axle moved foward the angle was to much( I even cut a good portion of the longer tie rod end off so that I could thread it in the adjusting sleave more .. , To where I sould see it pushing the steering arm down when the wheels went to the left.. I am not comfortable with the force it was applying on the arm and knuckle..Plus I didnt want to only turn to the right since it would only turn to the left about 1/4 of the way
 
Re: kind of a newbie question... zerorate up front forward 1\" dragling & DS ?

You're talking about adding 1.5" to the back and 1" to the front. That alone will give you a little more tire to fender clearance.

Take some measurements to see how far you come to hitting the front of the fender. 1" may not be the ideal amount to move forward. You can use the spring pad trick to move forward any amount you want, but you won't pick up the extra 1" of lift.

I was afraid of trimming for a long time until I realized that the contact really only happens at the bottom of the fender lip, not out at the side. Trimming off that bottom lip gives almost an extra inch of tire clearance and still looks stock from the side. I'm talking about of piece of sheet metal about 1" wide x 3" long.
 
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