5280k5 said:
Good luck on your purchase.
What's your plan for mounting that much juice to your door, IB in the door or some trick glass work ?
I don't mind talking car stereo, just been out of work for couple months now and haven't been able to make any progress on any of my audio projects. Now I have to play catch up with the bank account
On a side note, have you or anyone you know had any experience, good or bad with the CDT upstage kit? I've read a little and seems like either people love or hate CDT's
My girlfriends system doesn't really need to be active and was wondering if a speaker setup like those upstage really help. The plan is to have the mids and tweets in the doors and the addtl. tweets up in the pillars. I have a pair of JL 6" 8ohm subs to replace the factory subs in the b-pillar panels but seems like everywhere I read no one bothers to do a whole lot outside of fronts (2&3 way) and subs. There's also 2 12's going in the back hatch area. Thoughts/comments ?
Im deciding between IB and aperodic. IF these things actually show up, I'll get more serious and see if my doors even offer enough space for them IB. Otherwise, I'll be looking at aperiodic, which would be nice, but I have no hand's-on experience with AP.
Significant sound deadening is in the process of being installed, shouldn't have any rattle issues. (I should mention this isn't in one of my blazers, just a DD dodge)
The two pair of midbass 8's in the doors would be getting about 750 watts from an old soundstream reference amp. I know that seems like alot, but the rest of my front stage is going to be very efficient (compression horns and pro-audio mids) so I need alot of cone area and power to keep up... plus a lil headroom.
I really have no experience with the upstage kits, so Im afraid my opinion wouldn't be very helpful. Sorry.
Running two different sized subs is generally a no no. If you want to run them in the rear, Id recommend running them as rear-fill... bandpassed and atenuated. You dont want them to really compete with the subs in the rear, nor do you want them to draw your front staging rearward. If you hook them up, try playing with the freq range they play, and their volume. They should only reinforce your front stage, not dominate it.
Greg72 said:
Oooo Oooo Oooo! I do, I do.
I keep thinking about how to install some JL Audio 13W7s in my 1st Gen in metal compartments in the floor just behind the front seat area. Some sort of slotted bandpass deal so that the speakers are protected from the weather (with the top off) and the bass can come from a forward-facing port. My fear is that every bandpass box I've ever heard was a "one-note wonder".......super-peaky at one frequency, and lousy everywhere else.
I could mount them in conventional sealed boxes (still in the floor, but facing UP) but then I need a strong enough grille that rear seat passengers could walk on it, and if it rained they'd will fill up with water like expensive birdbaths....
There you have it. Stuff I think about, but don't really post about until someone shames me into it.
BP enclosures tend to get a bad rap due to the proliferance of pre-fab BP boxes. A bandpass box is relatively complex, and very spcific for the speaker mounted in it. A generic one size fits all BP box is going to, under the majority of circumstances, exhibity an extremely narrow useable freq range, ending up in that one-note-wonder we all hate.
But with that being said, a BP box CAN be made to sound very good, and fit into a system very elegantly (musically). A BP, when built speaker specific, can have a wider freq range, and given enough midbass support to reach down and grab what it misses at the top end, you will have a nice sounding system. Remember, BP enclosures, due to burying the woofer deep inside the box, display very little audible distortion. When done right, they can sound really good. But those proper BP setups are few and far between.
I think 13w7's hanging below your rig in metal boxes would be so big as to create some real clearance issues. lol BP boxes are big.
Have you considered a simpler method, like a removeable box? Downfire would be a good idea like suggested above. It sounds like you are wanting to flush mount the box into your pass compartment (like the floor)...?
bowtiepower00 said:
I was heavy into Car Audio about ten years ago, but since I can only afford so many hobbies I've gotten away from it a bit. One of these days, I will piece together another Competition level system, hopefully sooner rather than later.
Cool, nice to hear from ya. Hopefully when you start building your new system you'll post up about it.
Cheers guys. As always, a pleasure...
