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L18 8.1L swap resource thread

The mounting pattern is the same, but the connector changed. All you need to make it work is the 8-pin connector and wire it as shown.

Throttle connectors.jpg

Electronic Throttle Controls 1 of 2 2005.gif

DBW throttle control 2005.gif

TAC motor controller.gif

TPS sensor conn..gif
 
So as far as tuning goes, whats everyone doing on their 8.1 swaps? I have an 02 Silverado 8.1/Allison that I'm trying to tune with LS Droid and Tunerpro. Stock OS is the 6125 and the XDF for that doesnt have very many definitions done so I was planning a swap to the 2156 OS but cant find a correct bin for that OS and engine/trans combo
 
Is anyone else using a 4L80-E? Since the LS-based inspection cover bolts to the oil pan and 8.1L has no such provision, there is a big gap. Does a 90's 4l80 inspection cover fit? I see part numbers 15671929 and 15671930 available. I haven't found evidence online of anyone getting strut rods to work with the 8.1L.
 
Is anyone else using a 4L80-E? Since the LS-based inspection cover bolts to the oil pan and 8.1L has no such provision, there is a big gap. Does a 90's 4l80 inspection cover fit? I see part numbers 15671929 and 15671930 available. I haven't found evidence online of anyone getting strut rods to work with the 8.1L.
Don't know if this helps, I'm using the older 4L80e and I made the strut rods work with a torch and lots of patience.

IMG_0131.JPG

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Don't know if this helps, I'm using the older 4L80e and I made the strut rods work with a torch and lots of patience.
That's really good.

I finally found the GM number for 8.1/4L80 combo and it's the sheet metal one 15000206::frown1:

15000206.jpg

I prefer the cast aluminum style. The one I have from the 6.0 is a lot like this (15765623)

15765623.jpg

There are also some stamped filler panels available that could be made to work. If I can't find the older cover like you have I may fab up something similar to use with the one I already have, at least for temporary use.
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I think the part number I'm looking for is 15671932, which should be from a 7.4L truck.

15671932.jpg
 
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The mounting pattern is the same, but the connector changed. All you need to make it work is the 8-pin connector and wire it as shown.

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Just pulled the trigger on all the parts needed to swap from the delphi plug end, fill neck and a tb unit. Are only 4 of the locations used in the plug "d, h, a, and e"? If so factory I only have the two a and c looks like I use a but where does c "brn" go? Do I only need the wires listed? Or do I use all 8 locations using a combo of the tps harness plug wires and the hi/lo tac wires? Sorry for all the questions but I'm trying to get my ducks in a row
 
Just pulled the trigger on all the parts needed to swap from the delphi plug end, fill neck and a tb unit. Are only 4 of the locations used in the plug "d, h, a, and e"? If so factory I only have the two a and c looks like I use a but where does c "brn" go? Do I only need the wires listed? Or do I use all 8 locations using a combo of the tps harness plug wires and the hi/lo tac wires? Sorry for all the questions but I'm trying to get my ducks in a row
Check out lt1swap.com tons of wiring swap info, even for the 8.1 !
 
Just pulled the trigger on all the parts needed to swap from the delphi plug end, fill neck and a tb unit. Are only 4 of the locations used in the plug "d, h, a, and e"? If so factory I only have the two a and c looks like I use a but where does c "brn" go? Do I only need the wires listed? Or do I use all 8 locations using a combo of the tps harness plug wires and the hi/lo tac wires? Sorry for all the questions but I'm trying to get my ducks in a row
Not sure what the question is, but it's the same 8 wires either way-just all in one connector instead of two connectors.
 
Oh, I had to look at the diagram and your post a few times. All pins ARE defined in the diagram. Top row is A, B, C, D. Bottom row is E, F, G, H. The four with tags on them are so there's no way to misinterpret the order, even though there isn't a tag on every cavity.
 
That's the evap purge solenoid.

on a swap into a squarebody..is it needed?
If I could do it over again I would have had Howell wire and tune in the EVAP purge solenoid to operate then add a charcoal canister from a newer GM truck or van somewhere on the frame. I am so tired of smelling raw gasoline on my K10 and Suburban it isn’t funny. In fact, I may still have EVAP turned on in the ECM then wire it in especially on my Suburban where the gassy smell goes right inside the cabin. That kind of shit doesn’t bother you when you’re in your 20s and early 30s but now I'm closer to 50 than 40, I’m tired of smelling gas and exhaust (might add cats too)!:haha:
 
As I’ve been prepping @ZooMad75 8.1 the past few days I was able to grab a few clear photos of the method to remove the oil bypass valve for those that chose not to run engine oil coolers…or just simply don’t have the real state to mount a cooler anywhere. The update is at the bottom of Post 24 on Page 2 of this thread
 
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