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L18 8.1L swap resource thread

got back to this project, have had a ticking noise since I purchased. I pulled the intae for the egr delete and both valve covers leaked some. Inspect push rods per tsb
49312688593_0e0d500a13_z.jpg

Fist 3 exh push rods pull all show damage
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I am about ready to pull my 8.1 in the 02 c3500hd truck for the knock . It has 40lbs oil pressure cold start . Was told it was run low on oil . Going to find out soon . Would be nice if i could do just bearings and run it but who knows yet .
 
got back to this project, have had a ticking noise since I purchased. I pulled the intae for the egr delete and both valve covers leaked some. Inspect push rods per tsb
View attachment 499322

Fist 3 exh push rods pull all show damage
View attachment 499323
I am sure mine are the same, it has the ticking at idle once it warms up.
The ticking goes away once rpm is at 800 plus.

Oh I take it back, that's not my problem.
The TSB shows the ticking does not go away with rpm change
 
I inspected 2 lifters for #1 cyl and am able to see many lobes, so far all looks good. Will inspect all the lobes next
 
got back to this project, have had a ticking noise since I purchased. I pulled the intae for the egr delete and both valve covers leaked some. Inspect push rods per tsb
View attachment 499322

Fist 3 exh push rods pull all show damage
That looks like two problems, a slot that leaks, and also it appears the rocker is rubbing on the pushrod every cycle? I'm not talking about the guideplate rub, thats normal, I'm talking about the groove worn around below the ball. Normally a 210 degree clearance pushrod ball would solve this, but it almost looks too low?

This is the pushrod ball I am talking about, but is usually only required on higher lift cams, these are one piece pushrods, not seperate balls, I don't trust separate balls on performance applications...

Some have a shallower taper and would clear better.

Do the new pushrods solve this or the same problem will exist?

1741613569624.png


Like these...

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I believe the gm updated push rods have a longer taper.

I have 8 of ea on order from Rockauto. Will post up a comparison photo when they arrive
 
I believe the gm updated push rods have a longer taper.

I have 8 of ea on order from Rockauto. Will post up a comparison photo when they arrive
Ok, if they don't, let me know, we'll get you something that works.

Inspect the rocker arms to make sure they aren't damaged, if they are binding it could elongate the rocker cup.

And how could they say that noise would not vary with engine RPM? It would definitely be directly correlated.
 
My push rods arrive while I was away playing.
comparison of exhaust push rods.
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The part numbers match the tsb
 
yep must be an early 01 tsb says new push rods avail 6/01. I'd expect the production engs got them @ the same time.
 
Dug this one out today to swap in my 3500-hd with bad bearing knock . Its from a big med duty truck and had air compressor on it . So i know i got to swap some stuff i know .

Any thing to look out for now and were is torque specs please . Thanks for any help guys .

and its got 50k ish miles on it and drove to were pulled .

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Install a “new” crank sensor, as they are terrible to reach once the engine is installed. Plus, they like to break off inside the block on removal.
 
Ditto on the crank sensor. Whether you think it’s fresh or not. Just don’t now so you know it’s solid. I don’t think Larry has torque specs in this thread but they should be easy to dig up.
 
That engine has the newer style sensor (single O-ring - 12575172, ACDelco 213-1556), as the connector is parallel to the block. The old style sensor (double O-ring - 12556427, ACDelco 213-942) has the connector perpendicular.

1742909887407.png

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I just removed the crank pulley/dampener, and don’t see any indexing device. Does it not matter how it is installed?
Google fu has failed to answer my question.
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