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lack of power K5 350 CID TBI

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Mikedohc

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Good morning Partners, I have not written to the forum for a long time, a hug for everyone. After the complete restoration of the engine, I have mounted the engine in the car. The first thing I have done is to adjust the ignition time, as follows, I have removed the unit cable for the ignition advance, I have set the time to 0 degrees and then connect the cable and clear the fault. The engine stabilizes the idle correctly, but it lacks power, even sometimes, you accelerate it thoroughly, and when you release the gas it stops. The spark plugs are completely black and the car is still without force. Sensor map, temperature sensor and o2 sensor are new. What should i check?

No code error present.
 
After you set the timing, make sure you shut the engine off first, before reconnecting the wire?
 
What kind of shape is the engine in? Have you done a compression test?

Are they the proper spark plugs? Does the EGR work properly?

SHOULD be seeing a code if there is too much fuel, and/or incomplete burn, does the check engine light work properly? I'm guessing yes based on the comment regarding resetting the code.
 
good night (in Spain) first of all I want to thank you for your help, I have returned to do the whole process and check compression, I have adjusted the timming and now everything is correct, it starts at the half turn of the engine, and it has a great power, there was never had so much power, only I notice a slight metallic sound, I don't know if it's normal ...

the noise is exactly the same as the one heard in the video when you finish adjusting the valves, is this:


its normaly a small metalic sound?! I no know it.

thanks
 
the sound is not that of the beginning of the video that is heard a lot of metallic blow, I mean the final sound, when it ends up that a very weak metallic sound is heard, I do not know if it is normal. I am afraid that the valve will touch the piston, although I have not tightened much, only what is necessary to fit as indicated in the manual.
 
The valve train noise could be from a pressed-in rocker stud that has pulled out of the head, and will not adjust properly.
 
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When you adjusted the valves, did you do like the video with engine running?
Or with a service manual?
With engine off, rocker nuts backed off. Start with #1 cylinder at Top Dead Center(TDC).
While turning the push rod with your fingers tighten rocker. When push rod is hard to turn with fingers add 1 full turn to rocker nut.
Do intake valve 1, 2, 5, 7 exhaust valves 1, 3, 4, 8.
Rotate crank till #6 TDC adjust intake valves 3, 4, 6, 8 exhaust valves 2, 5, 6, 7.
Put covers on start engine let idle stabilize. Listen to each cylinder, with setphiscope, or long screw driver.
If they all sound the same you are good.
Personally I would set my timing @ 4 advanced.
 
Wes Harden said:
Personally I would set my timing @ 4 advanced.
Click to expand...

I tried that with my TBI small block engine. Even though that 4-degrees advanced gave me a little more power in the lower RPM range it caused too many knock counts. I did some data logging with Tuner Pro, and it showed my knock counts to be a little higher than they should be. Setting my timing to 0-degrees brought my knock count down to normal levels, but I lost a little power in the lower RPM range.
 
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1-ton said:
I tried that with my TBI small block engine. Even though that 4-degrees advanced gave me a little more power in the lower RPM range it caused too many knock counts. I did some data logging with Tuner Pro, and it showed my knock counts to be a little higher than they should be. Setting my timing to 0-degrees brought my knock count down to normal levels, but I lost a little power in the lower RPM range.
Click to expand...

My friend ran 4* advanced on his worn out TBI engine without issue. As soon as he dropped a GM crate replacement in, he had to back it down to 0* due to knock. Maybe slop in the timing chain on worn engines is the difference?
 
Check your coolant temperature sensor if the plugs are black
 
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