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Leaf Spring/10 to 60 Axle Swap Questions

greyhoundjc

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I'm relacing the 10 Bolt with a Dana 60 and I've hit a snag with the leaf springs.
The center pin that runs through the springs has snapped on the drivers side. Can I replace this pin with a grade 8 bolt?

Also, the existing center pins have a larger diameter on the cap then the holes on the Dana 60 spring perches. Should I try to enlarge the holes on the axle so the pin fits down inside or should I look for a center pin that will fit without drilling?

Finaly the degree shim has been ruffed up some from the broken pin, but it's not too bad. The skinny end slightly bends up. Should I replace the shims or is it not all that important?
 
You can replace the center pin with a G8 bolt....just grind down the head so that it is round.

As far as the hole in the spring pearch, first be sure that it is 9/16 in size. If not drill it out to that. I would imagine that the main cause of it being undersized would be a little corrosion.

If the shims are made of AL, replace them with steel no matter what the condition of them is. Personally I prefer to not have any shims on a front D60 at all. It greatly simplifies the install of the Pass Side spring plate. If you leave a shim in there it will not allow the bolts or studs, whichever yours has, to be properly loaded.
 
readymix said:
You can replace the center pin with a G8 bolt....just grind down the head so that it is round.

That's what I am running right no. A quick hit with the grinder is all it takes.
 
Thanks for the quick answer:D

The shims are AL. I bought the truck lifted and all of the work was done by a very reputible local shop; however, it appears that the shims were installed backwards. They are pointing the pinion down to the point where the driveshaft is close to bind on a level surface. I'm gonna try to ditch the shims and see if that helps.
 
greyhoundjc said:
Thanks for the quick answer:D

The shims are AL. I bought the truck lifted and all of the work was done by a very reputible local shop; however, it appears that the shims were installed backwards. They are pointing the pinion down to the point where the driveshaft is close to bind on a level surface. I'm gonna try to ditch the shims and see if that helps.
is this for a front or rear 60? most rear shafts are 1 piece shafts, meaning that the pinion angle needs to be close to that of the t-case output. CV shafts need the pinion inline with the shaft. depending on the shaft, those shims may or may not be installed correct...but if its in the rear, im gonna say its correct.
 
Anyone know how much to torque down the center pins? They are for BDS 4'' springs if that makes any difference.
 
Try using an allen bolt as your center pin if you can't locate any center pins. The head is usally the correct diameter for the diff and they are grade 8.
 
Would I be better off to just use actual center pins? I thought since I had one shear that a G8 bolt would be an upgrade.
 
if you can find actual center pins and you dont mind paying/waiting whatever for em thats great. its usually easier to pick up a G8 bolt or even allen head bolt rather than hunt down real pins for a decent price.

i torque my center pins down to "goodntight"
 
4X4HIGH said:
Try using an allen bolt as your center pin if you can't locate any center pins. The head is usally the correct diameter for the diff and they are grade 8.

X2 worked great. Plus you don't have to waste time grinding :wink1:
 
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