CK5
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Leaky Hydroboost
- Thread starter PaulZ
- Start date
Blazer Chalet
Registered Member
Get a new one don't take a chance on failure !
I hesitantly took a chance on a remanufactured one, and cross my fingers it has worked for the last couple of years or so. If you can afford a new one go for that. The problem with remaned ones is that the piston seal rides in a piston sleeve that have gotten pitted with age, and can tear the seal up. A new hydro-boost has a smooth new piston sleeve to ride on. The only problem with new ones I have heard of is that Chines manufactures have a tendency to use cheap seals on them. The ultimate in hydro-boost is to buy a new one made in China, and then take it apart to re-seal it with quality seals. Then you will have a nice hydro-boost that will last a long time.
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Probably, there seems to be multiple applications for everything on these trucks. I second the replacement, I dealt with a leaky one for a while and finally bought a new one. No issues, easy swap, should have done it right away when I noticed a leak.
After three reman units I rebuilt my mine with quality seals. If anyone else is looking. Haven’t had a problem since.
https://boostautoparts.com/products/gm-hydroboost-seals-final
https://boostautoparts.com/products/gm-hydroboost-seals-final
Is this still the best source for seals? The website isn't great. Mine works fine, but weeps fluid from the input. I was hoping that just means a seal on the input shaft side and not giving up an otherwise original booster.
Piratejack.net best place for seals.
So it seems like the problem with mine would be "Input Rod Seals", but adding up various statements in the Piratejack instructions (https://piratejack.net/template/img/KIT50_KIT501.pdf) implies that it's a waste of time.
Then there's no mention of replacing the rod or welding the old one back together. The implication is that pulling the ball out of the staked socket will crack it. So...what's the point of the kit on these units? Only seal up the output and the figure-8 seal? Maybe all the remans are getting a new input rod? Anybody cut and weld it? Maybe the boot can be saved by cutting near the eyelet and using a wet rag?
Obviously mine is the tapered shaft style they're talking about. If you get a reman and the pedal push rod is the wrong length, I guess you keep sending them back and trying different applications? That's part of why I was so interested in just replacing the seals.
Then there's no mention of replacing the rod or welding the old one back together. The implication is that pulling the ball out of the staked socket will crack it. So...what's the point of the kit on these units? Only seal up the output and the figure-8 seal? Maybe all the remans are getting a new input rod? Anybody cut and weld it? Maybe the boot can be saved by cutting near the eyelet and using a wet rag?
Obviously mine is the tapered shaft style they're talking about. If you get a reman and the pedal push rod is the wrong length, I guess you keep sending them back and trying different applications? That's part of why I was so interested in just replacing the seals.
I sent mine to Power Brake Exchange in San Jose and for under 200 mine was rebuilt and and have had zero issues
1 408-292-1305
1 408-292-1305
I used a method pretty similar to the one above with the red vise, except instead of a notched plate, I used the end of a box wrench. Seems to have come apart and gone back together with no issues.
late to the show but I have done this many times. When the rod on the unit removed doesn't match the replacement and trucks gotta roll in the am or 4-8 guys are standing around waiting for a truck.
