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ryoken

ryoken

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gooseneck trailers...


no freakin clue about trailers overall... what makes a gooseneck superior to a standard ball hitch/pintle reciever in the back?

how about some pics or pricing?

can I get a pretty decent trailer used for $1500 to 2 g's? I'd like something with plenty of capacity for the K5, and maybe some gear/tool storage at the front..


since i'm eyeballing a possible towrig, it's the next obvious question.. since it more than likely will be a tube flatbed, it should be ideal for a gooseneck if they're a nice advantage.. obviously I'll still run a stout reciever out back too...
 
Think leverage.

The gooseneck trailers put the tongue weight over the rear axle, whereas a ball hitch puts the tongue weight hanging off the end of your frame.
 
the only advantage that I'm aware of is it moves the tongue wait directly over the rear axle. So the towing vehicle doesn't get light on the steering.

Edit: got sniped by sniperthx1!
 
Although Im new and novice to towing since I just started hauling at work in the last year. Gooseneck gives you better weight distribution over the truck and a better turning swing.
 
ill take a gooseneck over a regular trailer anyday. when we haul our equipment around you dont even know theres a trailer back there sometimes
 
so a twin axle 18' would probably do me nice...


015ffa87-929d-4fd5-835d-ad3548df5f77_gallerybig.jpg



maybe some lockable storage at the very front of the deck...

can that be had used for 2 g's?
 
hmmm, just saw a ton listed for 2 to 3 grand..
 
Ive never pulled a flat deck with a fifth wheel, only bumper pull. But have however pulled my share of 5th wheel horse trailers. Like said above they just pull way better, none of that push pull like a bumper pull gives you.
 
measure 2x and buy 1 time. ask me how i know :doah:


make sure your bumper to bumper full vehicle length will clear the ramps/front frame work on the trailer / and be able to secure it all down correctly.

i had a 18ft bumper pull and with ramps fliped up i couldnt fit a std cab long bed. and std cab short bed was also a bit fun.

i should have got min 20ft deck.
 
plus you still want room availalbe so you can move the truck forwards or rear to adjust tongue weight.
 
turning radius is one of the main reasons.....with a bumper pull you can only turn so sharp before the front edges of the deck get into the bumper or the fenders ( especially on a dually.... ask me how I know :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes: )

with a gooseneck you can pivot 90 degrees easily.....great in tight spaces..

down side of a gooseneck....forget to lower your tailgate as you drive off after disconnecting the trailer just once......:whistle: knock on wood.....haven't had that brain fart yet.....but have seen it done...
 
Weight capacity is just as important as length. I used to borrow a standard 7k bumper pull car trailer to haul my old K10 (~6200 lbs), it was always suffering and hating it. The trailer I have now is a 12k bumper pull with 7k axles and it doesn't break a sweat with the K5 on it.

Figure out how heavy your K5 is and consider that before buying. Just like measuring the length to make sure it'll fit you don't want a trailer that will be bottomed out every time you use it.
 
Gooseneck trailers pull soooo much nicer than a bumper pull trailer.

IMHO I would never even think twice about it. Get the gooseneck and be done.

Grew up on the farm and ranch always pulling something. Had both types of trailers and I would rather pull the gooseneck any day.
 
talked to our one boat hauler today and he confirmed what I suspected, and you guys reiterated so well..

I'm planning a gooseneck for sure. it'll be an 18 or 20... i definitely want some storage up front, and I'm sure the rig will be pushed up pretty far... and as long as the ramps fold up with the K5 in a good spot, I don't care how much is in back...

how are axles rated? is it more a third being added, or the capacity of each? like would 2 7500 lb axles be as good as 3 5000 lb ones?

this is obviously something down the road.... looking like a flatbeddable K30 is what I'm hunting, see next annoying thread for those questions.... ;)
 
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My friends say that the 3 axle trailers are harder to turn

It's mainly about the size of the axles, you should see how huge the dual tandem axles are
 
ok, good.. so a pair of stout axles is fine.. I'm guessing 7000 lb'ers would be good.. what trailer are you putting the burb on? you got a pic of that right?
 
When turning sharp especially, 3 axles turn harder than 2, 2 turn harder than 1, its all about the tires trying to at different rates and being longer from the point touching the ground on the front tire to the point touching on the back tire. When backing up especially with multiple axles you get the tires pushing and scrubbing across the ground as you try to turn sharper, your definately going to have multiple axles but I would stick to 2. Another advantage of 2 over 3 is only having to buy 4 tires when replacement time comes versus 6.
 
It's been a long time so the details are a little fuzzy but I think this was a 20' 7k trailer I borrowed to pull my old crew cab to the Indy Jamboree back in '03. Just thought I'd post it to give a little trailer length vs truck perspective.

Indy2003.jpg
 
nvrenuf said:
It's been a long time so the details are a little fuzzy but I think this was a 20' 7k trailer I borrowed to pull my old crew cab to the Indy Jamboree back in '03. Just thought I'd post it to give a little trailer length vs truck perspective.

Indy2003.jpg
Click to expand...

Hey I know where that was at!:D
 
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