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Lets see your open element air cleaners

sandawgk5 said:
Here is mine.
14653EGRconn_003.jpg

I am cheap, the filter was in it when I bought it plus when I take it in for smog I just flip the lid back over, after I clean it off of course. As far as noise there is a definate deeper sound I think from the injectors firing. It makes it sound more like a V-8.

Ira


That's what I did. I noticed that I'm getting alittle better gas milage.
 
neverendingproject said:
For the k&n ones, if you hav any noise coming from the carb or TB then you will hear it, big noise difference, of course it almost sound like a supercharcher, at least on mine


EXACTLY!!!! I have a K&N filter element in the stock air cleaner with the top inverted, and it makes a MUCH different sound then when the top was on correctly.
 
RootBreaker said:
for mud or water... yer gonna gulp some ..... not bad if yer motor is thursty :haha:

I had an open element.. and same day took it off... now I use this...factory one.... for my holley I had to use the chevy van spacer... it isnt "sealed" but does the job so far...

snorkel.jpg





I know I know... the 1989 olds 88 fuse/relay pack on the firewall looks like poop... gonna clean that up next summer :haha:

Supposedly PVC piping emits toxic vapors when heated under hood. It might be worthwhile to switch to exhaust tubing instead.
 
rcamacho said:
Supposedly PVC piping emits toxic vapors when heated under hood. It might be worthwhile to switch to exhaust tubing instead.


I was told only worry if it catches on fire.. then that is the case....
 
big94gmc said:
EXACTLY!!!! I have a K&N filter element in the stock air cleaner with the top inverted, and it makes a MUCH different sound then when the top was on correctly.

You get the same sound effect if you have a stock air filter and flip the lid. My TPI, fully enclosed from the radiator support back, makes the same noise.
 
smokkey1 said:
That's what I did. I noticed that I'm getting alittle better gas milage.


Interesting,,,when i did that to mine, it turned it into a dog,,definate "feel" with loss of horsepower :dunno:
 
I got a shiny one off de bay for ?$50 pm me and we can hook up and you can see it
 
rcamacho said:
Supposedly PVC piping emits toxic vapors when heated under hood. It might be worthwhile to switch to exhaust tubing instead.
Good thing it's mostly ABS.
 
pull it from outside then

mini_mull said:
I thought that TBI engines liked cold air, and actually run worse with an open air element???

i used this air filter tunnel ram with the 5" element....
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...atalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=12283


i have vortec heads and a high rise aluminum intake for a carb all from gmpp's...pluss i run a 2" phenolic spacer under my carb and i had to cut a hole in my hood and the whole element is out of engine compartment. i have a outterwear on it so i dont worry unless i start getting water up over my hood......i also took off the hood hinges and used pins on all 4 corners so i could just cut a round hole instead of an oblong to clear the hood as the hinges swing forward as it is opened...i wound up with about 1" clearance around the filter because of the motor torquing over...i've chained the drivers side head to the frame to stop this but it still torques some...and i get clean fresh cool air from outside! plus it looks cool ...every1 assumes its a blower under the hood because i'm running noisey pete jackson timing gears ;)
 
mini_mull said:
I thought that TBI engines liked cold air, and actually run worse with an open air element???
You're right! So I'm going back to a stock system...but maybe a bit bigger than stock. :D This is what I have at the moment.

160505 021 copy.JPG
 
mini_mull said:
I thought that TBI engines liked cold air, and actually run worse with an open air element???

i like the stock unit.. a few mods could improve it... one day i'll get around to making it duel feed...
 
ryoken said:
i like the stock unit.. a few mods could improve it... one day i'll get around to making it duel feed...
Yeah me too. I was thinking of building a dual feed around this 4" element. Probebly overkill but what the heck! :D
 
i was planning on using 2 parts of another one added to mine.. the other intake obviously.. then another inch or so of the main body to run a taller filter... fair amount of work, but i think would work well.. certainly have enough clearance, even with the Powercharger... :D
 
littlmeck said:
I got a shiny one off de bay for ?$50 pm me and we can hook up and you can see it
It says I can't pm you,you have chosen not to or something like that.I would like to take a look at your air cleaner.Where in Carson are you?I live in the new area behind Target off of Jacks Valley Rd.Let me know when is best for you.
 
mini_mull said:
I thought that TBI engines liked cold air, and actually run worse with an open air element???

I personally believe carbed or TBI, whatever increases are noted, are incidental and likely insignificant statistically. I did my own testing when carbed, flipping the lid on the 6" stock air cleaner did nothing for mileage, up or down, and I check mileage every single tank. Did it on a car as well, same result.

As to heat, the pros and cons IMO are pretty even, especially so with carb and TBI. Heat keeps the fuel in suspension, but cold air makes more power. If it was that big of a deal, you'd be seeing some real consistent gains or losses in mileage one way or the other, and you don't, or at least I've satisfied myself with my own testing that it doesn't. Airflow? Well, what are the stock snorkel CFM numbers, how much do either of the stock air cleaner sizes flow, and whats the flow rating of the carb or TBI itself?

I lean towards cooler intake air, but in reality, its up to what the owner wants to do, as always. I think a better arguing point pro/con is the K&N itself, but that's been hashed over in another thread and no reason to start that all over again, people can go find that if they want to.
 
I'm using a comp cams composite housing (check comps website 'cuz they are on the clearance rack for $32). In april I dyno'ed a 383 using both that housing and a KN oval housing. The KN is billet alum that really looked cool and had a 4 inch tall element. The end result was the comp housing made 8 hp more then the KN. In fact the dyno guy looked at both and predicted this beforehand. What I learned was the housing has more to do with power than the filter. I'm not trying to start a flame war over filters here, if you like yours, use it. My point is the housing you use should help turn the air into the carb or throttlebody...it should not be perfectly flat across the top. The picture Zoomad76 posted is what the top should look like to make max power. About his water problem, I got no ideas.
George
 
open elements and water crossings dont mix.we lost 2 engins this summer to river crossings in rigs with open elements.best factory aircleaner assembly you get is off the 5.0 ho engines from the z/28s or montecarlo ss .use the top of the truck filter to give lots of filter surface and run the air intake hoses back to the firewall area.i have had water on my hood-4"lift and 36s- and have had no water in my air filter area yet.
 

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