The picture in this thread wwere so awesome that I got all fired up. I have teh metal and will build my anti wrap bar today...I'll post some pics. Thanks again for the info.
CK5
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Lets see your Traction bars
- Thread starter NateInChandler
- Start date
What did you guys do with your emergency brake cable and that little braket that holds the cable?
sweetk30 said:
I beleive this is because of the way the axle wraps. When going forward the force is rotating the pinion up. Although they work in both directions it seems.
I got 95% done before I realized that a side mount anti wrap bar needs to go on the passenger side if there rear axle is a 14FF. Luckily I saw that moments before I welded the final configuration in place. I just need some 3.5" eye to eye shackles and I am ready to roll...It is interesting to jump on the rear bumber and see how much the front of the bar moves up and down...and then think about fixing it in place...
BKinzey
1/2 ton status
So, is RuffStuff selling a complete kit now? I thought they just sold the axle parts and you made your own ladder and frame connection?
Gravel Maker
1/2 ton status
No, we do not sell the complete kit......
The complete kit depends too much on the components you have chosen to use and we would have to make 10 different bar configurations to fit everyones' different setups. I should explain a little here
, when you change engine location, transmission length, transfer cases (length), or double the transfer you are changing the correct position to locate the crossmember end. We can't decide that for you ahead of time without making 10 different length wrap bars, and then we still would likely be off from the prime location by an inch.......Did I make sense?
BKinzey said:
The complete kit depends too much on the components you have chosen to use and we would have to make 10 different bar configurations to fit everyones' different setups. I should explain a little here
, when you change engine location, transmission length, transfer cases (length), or double the transfer you are changing the correct position to locate the crossmember end. We can't decide that for you ahead of time without making 10 different length wrap bars, and then we still would likely be off from the prime location by an inch.......Did I make sense?
BKinzey
1/2 ton status
Sure did! Thanks!
Oh, BTW, I got the diff cover & disc adapters Friday
Luckily I was home to help the nice old lady mailman or she may not have made it up the driveway
Oh, BTW, I got the diff cover & disc adapters Friday
Luckily I was home to help the nice old lady mailman or she may not have made it up the driveway
How far does the front shackle move when the axle moves through its range of motion to stuff the wheel or if there is a lot of droop? I am trying to figure out if it is unrealistic to think that the shackle moves 1" or less.
I think I may chage the way the bracket mounts. This picture is withthe passenger side rear tire of the ground, 100% droop...but that is not a lot of clearnace.
Im not a fan of these type of traction bars... They create issues when the suspension cycles. A look at renes post a while back explains this well. A single bar on each side properly laid out with orbital eyes/ rod ends would be a better overall performer...A look at wally (ord's rig) has this setup and worked very well when they were still on leaves...
Basicly the issue with these barsis that in a normal sprung suspension there is little to no change in the pinion angle as the suspension cycles, with this style (dual bars- triangulated) as the bar moves up and down it moves in an arc, and trys to rotate the pinion with its arc. Since the pinion doesnt want to move like this it puts TONS of stress on that bar/ bolts...
Basicly the issue with these barsis that in a normal sprung suspension there is little to no change in the pinion angle as the suspension cycles, with this style (dual bars- triangulated) as the bar moves up and down it moves in an arc, and trys to rotate the pinion with its arc. Since the pinion doesnt want to move like this it puts TONS of stress on that bar/ bolts...
Supreme70
1/2 ton status
So who has a pic of the very best set-up.
I have horqable axle wrap and need to something about it very soon.
I have horqable axle wrap and need to something about it very soon.
Gravel Maker
1/2 ton status
???Huh???
There is a heim on the end of the bar at the shackle to allow rotational movement? What am I missing? I do not agree at all with individual bars, drag racing yes, rock crawling no.....
There is a heim on the end of the bar at the shackle to allow rotational movement? What am I missing? I do not agree at all with individual bars, drag racing yes, rock crawling no.....
You're not missing anything, as long as it has some way to change its horizontal length (shackle, one tube sliding inside another, etc.) it will work.
There are two mount points on the diff end, and this style of anti wrap bar does not jive well with the way the diff wants to move. One of the mount points on the diff end will always shear eventually.
You need to compare the pinion's arc of travel through the limits of the springs to the arc of travel of the anti wrap device. It's not about the fore and aft compensation, and it's not about the twist due to articulation. It's how those two arc's I just described cannot jive with each other. What part breaks only depends on what the weakest link is. On my set-up the weakest link was the alloy 1/2" pins.
Frankly, the best way to get rid of axle wrap is to link the rear. Anything else is asking for a lesson in 'weakest link' theory.
Rene
You need to compare the pinion's arc of travel through the limits of the springs to the arc of travel of the anti wrap device. It's not about the fore and aft compensation, and it's not about the twist due to articulation. It's how those two arc's I just described cannot jive with each other. What part breaks only depends on what the weakest link is. On my set-up the weakest link was the alloy 1/2" pins.
Frankly, the best way to get rid of axle wrap is to link the rear. Anything else is asking for a lesson in 'weakest link' theory.
Rene
Gravel Maker
1/2 ton status
Frendship nonewithstanding......
I completely dissagree....
The 2 axle mounting points travel together due to them being attached before the heim at the shackle. If you break a bolt that you believe is from stress it originates elsewhere. Perhaps the heim didn't have enough articulation for the flex you were capable of?
I completely dissagree....
The 2 axle mounting points travel together due to them being attached before the heim at the shackle. If you break a bolt that you believe is from stress it originates elsewhere. Perhaps the heim didn't have enough articulation for the flex you were capable of?
All of this was cnc'd from billet, bars were 1.5" x .375" DOM. Shackle ends of the bars were threaded with some high end aircraft grade unobtanium stainless alloy inserts. Both bars could rotate 360 degrees...certainly more than any heim out there.
Shackle had free and adequate movement.
Springs were 57" F150 springs, and with the bar it would ramp 1200 plus on a 20 degree ramp (42" + under a rear tire).
Add throttle while twisted, or while seriously compressing the springs and snap goes one of the two diff mount pins
Rene
All of this was cnc'd from billet, bars were 1.5" x .375" DOM. Shackle ends of the bars were threaded with some high end aircraft grade unobtanium stainless alloy inserts. Both bars could rotate 360 degrees...certainly more than any heim out there.
Shackle had free and adequate movement.
Springs were 57" F150 springs, and with the bar it would ramp 1200 plus on a 20 degree ramp (42" + under a rear tire).
Add throttle while twisted, or while seriously compressing the springs and snap goes one of the two diff mount pins
Rene
Its probably that the springs offered very little resistance to axle wrap and hence put all the stress on the 1/2" bolt.
Link suspensions generally use 9/16" bolts or larger.
My joints are use a 3/4" bolt, which is a bit more than 5x stronger in shear than a 1/2" bolt.
Gravel Maker
1/2 ton status
My experience says....
You have to allow for "some" forward and back movement, yours dosen't appear to do that? It could just be the pic also but I can't see it.....
Also, are your 2 bars attached to each other, the shadow makes it possible to me that they aren't and they need to be?
You have to allow for "some" forward and back movement, yours dosen't appear to do that? It could just be the pic also but I can't see it.....
Also, are your 2 bars attached to each other, the shadow makes it possible to me that they aren't and they need to be?
Forward end is a shackle, and the bars are not attached to each other.
383...not bolts, alloy pins.
Rene
383...not bolts, alloy pins.
Rene
Gravel Maker
1/2 ton status
If they are not attached......
they would natuarlly fight each other.....
they would natuarlly fight each other.....
