CK5
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Let's talk torque converters-Now a trans build thread without pics.

You should have the output hub/ring gear assembled onto the output shaft, and the rear planet installed into the rear ring gear before dropping the assembly into the case. The 350 is easiest to build if you load it all from the trans in an upright position. You can stand the case up on an inverted 5 gallon bucket with a hole cut for the output shaft, or inprovise another support system to load it this way. Once the output shaft and planet are in place you can load the steels and clutches, steel first, then clutch till the last clutch is in place. Then take your anti clunck spring and paste it into the case with petroleum jelly and install the fully assembled low sprag and housing into the case, you will have to twist the inner sprag race to line up with the lugs on the rear planet as these two go together. Once the support is in place in the case you can install the large snap ring into the case groove that holds it all in place and proceed with the remainder of the build. Sunshell next, then planet, then front ring gear and hub, then small snap ring on front planet to output shaft. Assemble direct drum and forward drum packs then put both drums together and load them into the case at the same time twisting the input shaft as you set the drums in so that the forard clutches engage the splines on the input ring gear. Once the drums are all the way down you should be able to lift them up an eighth inch and set them down and feel a very solid thud, if not, keep twisting till the clutches are all in position and the forward drum is sitting on the thrust washer on the forward hub. Next, drop the band into place, the intermediate clutches and then the pump assembly. You can establish final endplay by installing the pump without the pump o-ring and only a couple of pump to case bolts. Use a small punch inserted into the feed hole on the side of the protruding input shaft and pull up on the shaft. It should be about .025 to .035 total for best results. You can use thin steel shims behind the pump stator bearing to tighten it up if need be. These are available from your parts supplier. Have fun!:D
 
Well, I screwed up. Forgot the wave spring in the forward clutch drum. Now I get to tear back down to that point. Luckily I caught it before the pump went in, as I just have to pull the intermediate clutch and then the forward and direct clutch drums. Minor setback to be sure, but it is chewing up my time.
 
Got the spring in, had to remove one friction plate to get the endplay that is needed for the clutch pack to work. No big deal, the direct drum was missing one friction when I tore it apart, so I know this will work here. Working on the pump now and then I can finish up and start re-installation.
 
I was aiming to have between .035 and .085 which is what the manual calls for. I didn't check it exactly on one, but the forward drum had about .040 without the friction plate, with it there was 0 clearance and I couldn't get the snap ring into place without a press. I know that isn't right, and there had to be a bit of rotation capability to get all the clutches lined up with the splines.

At this point it is what it is. I have it fully re-assembled, put the cork gasket in with the pan to allow me to get it into place, then I will use the new rubber gasket that came with the filter.

I am done for the night, and won't be back on it until Friday. Then I can get it installed and see if I royally screwed it up, or if I did it right. I will report back as to how things turn out, and I sincerely hope it is right at this point. I really don't want to pull it back out again!

I really want to thank Eric(blazinzuk) for calling me back this morning and explaining about the missing friction plate in the direct drum. :bow:
 
I can't say long term obviously, but as of right now she runs and drives. Shifts nice semi-firm shift through all the gears, and locks right in when shifting to reverse or drive. I sure hope it is right, but so far I am not seeing any slippage and she is working well.
 
I doubt forever, but I would be happy if it doesn't fail until after I get back from Yellowstone later next month.

Now just to replace the front pinion bearing that is bad in the rear axle housing. I know it isn't going to be right, since I am not going to use a new crush sleeve, but it should hold until I can pick up some new 8 lug wheels and get my 3/4 tons under her.

As for performance, the shifts feel like a new truck, and far firmer than in the last 4 years I have owned Krusty. Very happy, and hoping I can finish the other little issues so I can give her a proper break in and run.
 
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