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Let's talk torque converters-Now a trans build thread without pics.

Yes soak the clutches in fluid, I have done it both ways but the soaking always seemed like a good idea to me.

Another thing Jason, when the trans is out the 4 holes in the trans, the ones that are threaded and hold the adaptor to the trans. Heli coil these, seriously do it. I know heli coils are expensive but it is very common to have those pull out. Even with the factory torque rod in place.

Remember clean clean clean clean clean clean clean clean clean clean.

Wish I had time to run down but I have a family reunion on saturday.

If you have any questions while you are in the process don't hesitate to give me a call, I am no expert but i play one on tv.

One more thing be very careful putting all the seals on the white seals that lock into each other can be broken very easily. They are the teflon ones
 
I think I have a bunch of heli coils in exactly the right size already. Good idea.

As for cleaning, just bought me a new 20 gallon parts washer. Been wanting one for a while, this just seemed like the right time to buy it. Also have oil pads on my bench to absorb the oil, and a few cans of brake clean.

And my new tech manual warns about those teflon seals and shows where they are. Will keep a close eye on them when I am doing this. Not in a rush, got 6 days, and I want it right.

Thanks for the info on the clutches, I will put them in a pan tomorrow after the trans is out.

Also need to get to the linkage portion to see what parts need replaced to restore shifter feel. Right now it is sloppy and I can barely tell what gear I am in. Hoping Transparts can help me fix that.
 
You are probably missing the white bushing that goes in the cup looking thing that the shift rod goes into. Should be a spring and a washer on that too to retain tension. That little bushing is missing alot. Most trans places have them in stock last time I bought one I think it was like 3 bucks
 
One more thing Jason, are you using the stock cooler in the transmission. If so you really need to flush it. If you are using an aftermarket cooler that was in before you need to flush it. If you are putting in a new cooler then you need to flush the lines

They sell something call cooler flush at most trans shops. Use it
 
I will get some. Planned to use the aftermarket cooler that is in it already, so I will get it flushed out along with the lines.
 
If you put the clutches into a pan of fluid at the start of the build they will be more than ready by the time you start stacking your clutch packs. they will only require an hour or less for a full soak, they suck it up pretty quick.
 
I think I have a bunch of heli coils in exactly the right size already. Good idea.
Click to expand...
I would chase every thread in the case before I got started..
and then would helicoil the four threaded holes at the rear of the case...

Then get (4) grade 8 studs and red locktite them into the case.....

then when you mount the transfer case adaptor,,use grade 8 flat washers,,lock washers and nylock nuts...

I have had the best luck doing it this way...


just my .02
 
one other thing, if your aftermarket cooler is a stacked plate design, don't even try to flush it, replace it. Stacked plate coolers can not be flushed properly. If it is tube and fin, flush away!

Cheers,

Rufus
 
It is a tube and fin. One day I will replace it with a heavier duty stacked plate, but right now I just want her running.
 
I didn't think these had lockup on them, but apparently I was wrong. There is a single weatherpack that hooks up, and when I drained it there was the lockup controller. Still not out, running into issues with the trans lines, most likely going to have to cut them. Once it is out today I will begin the teardown and rebuild. Still hoping to have it done by Wednesday.
 
FYI the valve body gaskets for the lockup trans differ from the conventional 350. If your rebuild kit is not for a lockup, get some gaskets on order, one upper and one lower for the valve body, everything else should work from the non lockup kit.
 
would an 80 have the lockup TH350? I though that came later?

And replacing those bolts with studs is a great idea. Ill have to dao that next time.
 
rufusbooth said:
yep, as others have said, sounds like a th350c.

These are your friends to get your trans lines off without stripping the heads.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog


Cheers,

Rufus
Click to expand...
Nope, I had a set of those but the angle wouldn't clear. I either hit the frame, or the trans, or the floorpan. A buddy of mine came by with a set of crows feet style line wrenches that worked perfectly and didn't strip the lines.

The transmission is now sitting in pieces on my workbench. Going to clean it all up tomorrow and start re-assembling it.

Only thing I am currently worried about is the low and reverse clutch piston at the end of the case. I don't have a spring compressor to remove the snap ring and allow me to actually re-assemble it. This has me a bit nervous about the slipping in first and reverse when cold. What says the brotherhood, should I find a way to tear that portion down, or is it unlikely to be the issue.

Overall clutches don't look bad, but I have no previous experience to reference. There were no chunks in the pan and I haven't run across any during the teardown. I did find one retainer spring missing, no sign of it so far. I am probably going to pick up a new one tomorrow before I begin putting it all back together. Going to scrape the bulk of the grease off then take it to the car wash and clean it up really good. Then start cleaning all the components.

blazinzuk said:
You are probably missing the white bushing that goes in the cup looking thing that the shift rod goes into.
Click to expand...
That white bushing was there, but the shift in the trans feels really good and isn't worn, so I will buy a new one tomorrow.
 
I would sure try and remove that piston and replace the seals on it. Low and Reverse are pretty critical gears in a 4x4, not something you would want to gamble on if the the piston seals are original. You can make a simple spring compressor with some flat stock and a length of all thread. put a narrow piece of flat stock against the spring pack, then put the all thread through the center and out through the center of the case bushing to the rear of the trans and through another piece of flat stock laid across the rear case opening. Tighten nuts down to compress the spring pack and remove the snap ring. Use a small hit of compressed air through the reverse apply passage at the base and center of the valve body area to dislodge the piston once the spring pack is removed. Use plenty of petroleum jelly on the piston seals when reinstalling the piston into the case, the seals are easy to damage if forced and dry.
 
Ok, well I am not going to have this thing torn down this far and not replace the three seals on that piston. Just waiting on a friend of mine to stop by and give me a hand pulling the snap ring and then I will put new seals in and put it right back into place. Then the re-assembly will start.

Trans has been taken to the car wash and cleaned up. Now I didn't worry about making it professionally spotless, but it is much cleaner than it was. Pulled the accumulator today, and getting ready to put it back in place. Also pulling the governor in a minute to seal it back up with new o-rings.
 
Hold up on the governor install till after the trans is assembled. you run the risk of damaging the gear when installing the output shaft.
 
I left the governor out for now. It is easy enough to install last so I just figured I would wait.

As of right now the low and reverse piston at the end of the trans has been removed, and all three seals installed. We used a piece of allthread, through a steering lock plate compressor, out the tail end with another part to hold it there. This worked perfectly, and saved me from having to buy a tool I might never use again. It was then put in, followed by the output shaft and the clutch pack. Just working on installing the snap ring that holds that assembly together. A couple of the snap ring spots are in place, just got to press the rest down and get the snap ring to drop into the groove.

Getting there, although it is taking me a long time. I would rather take my time and do it right than have to tear it back out.
 
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