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Leveling Kit for the '07 and up Silverado/Sierra?

Craig Artzner

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I just bought an '07 Silverado and want to get the 2" leveling kit to bring the front end up level with the rear. Has anyone here done this? How hard is it to install and how does it affect the ride? I've heard that putting these things on can affect the ride negatively.

Me and the new ride:
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vary simple. coil strut setup . i have used the skyjacker kits before with zero problems. bad ride is mostly torsion bar style with bars cranked up.

jack up the front end.

remove tires.

remove caliper to not over strech the brake hose

remove the 3 top strut mount nuts to frame bracket.

remove big lower bolt for strut to a-arm

possible remove upper control arm ball joint nut from knuckle to drop out strut unit. allen wrenchs metric needed to hold stud from spinning from locknut style retainer.

add level kit to the top of the strut mount bolt on and go style.

swap struts left to right as per the kit directions.

reinstall all parts.

get front end alignment.

dosnt effect spring rate. :waytogo:

edit : biggest problem with these trucks tho is the square fender openings. even a lift or level kit you cant realy do much bigger on tires for the fact thay hit the fenders.

if i recall summet racing sells them :whistle:
 
front still rides good, and we did an add a leaf in the back that was noticably stiffer.
 
07 Is the first year of the new front, non-tbar suspension.

Looked into the designs of hte leveling kits, i see no real issues. Some space the bottom, some the top, but all are better than the tbar setups.
 
Actually it does affect the spring rate.

You're compressing the coil more by squeezing that spacer in there. Puts it under more of a load than just supporting the weight of the vehicle. However it shouldn't be anything worrisome. Just firms up the ride basically.


Still better than torsion bars.
 
Actually it does affect the spring rate.

You're compressing the coil more by squeezing that spacer in there. Puts it under more of a load than just supporting the weight of the vehicle. However it shouldn't be anything worrisome. Just firms up the ride basically.


Still better than torsion bars.

ya those kits are out there.

but i only like to use the bolt on top plate spacer. never touch the spring rate.

i did 1 kit for a guy with the stupid coil spacer thing. had to fite like hell the whole time. and so frigin stiff later . said never again.

and prob 75% of the key kits i have installed for t-bar trucks come back out.
 
Actually it does affect the spring rate.

You're compressing the coil more by squeezing that spacer in there. Puts it under more of a load than just supporting the weight of the vehicle. However it shouldn't be anything worrisome. Just firms up the ride basically.


Still better than torsion bars.


Nope, you arent' really compressing the spring farther. Just putting a spacer under neath it.

So yes, the neutral position is slightly different....but .5" isnt' enough to do anything....definitely doesnt' increase the spring rate like a tbar key....
 
How could squeezing a spring into a space smaller than it not change the effective spring rate?
 
It is. You are forcing the arm down a bit but you're still wedging a relatively taller coil/spacer combo in there than the space allows. The knuckle is still the same height so the "triangle" can only change so much.

I've done this a few times on different vehicles and the ride always got firmer.
On my Trackers/Suzukis it's been noted that the Old Man Emu lift 1.5" springs are shorter than stock springs with 1.5" lift spacers on them. This is so that they fit easier and due to them having a higher rate than the stock coils.
 
Ok I bought the ReadyLift spacer kit. Watched the install video and it doesn't look too hard. Only thing about the video is that they do the install on a 2WD truck so they weren't dealing with the half-shaft in the way (like I will be). I'm guessing you just have to work around it, but not much difference in method.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RLS-66-3085/


Anyone have any pointers? I'm going to dive into it this weekend.
 
Trying to remember on the Chevy's...does that just bolt on top of the strut/spring assembly's "top hat" or do you have to slide that between the spring and the top of the assembly?

If it goes on top then just lift the vehicle up, let the suspension droop out, unbolb the strust/spring assemblies, bolt that in, reattach assemblies, and go to alignment shop. Coworker just did a setup like that on his Ram 1500 and he said it took him 30 minutes with hand tools.
 
ya its a top strut mount spacer bolts on.

i my self dont like that kit. no new studs/bolts makes the factory studs real short. watch for full thread engagment.

and only other thing i ever did was unbolt the axle nut to not over extend/pop out the c/v when movin things around.

watch out for the little 10mm bolts for the abs / brake hoses to the upper a-arm. rust in and snap.

i have done the skyjacker lift and like that one better in my opinion as its bolt on spacer NOT sandwich like readylift. and gives new studs for lots of thread contact.

skyjacker kit cheeper also. and prob get a deal at this place http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=c720ms&dds=1
 
i my self dont like that kit. no new studs/bolts makes the factory studs real short. watch for full thread engagment.
I'm guessing that the extra spacer they give me for the lower strut mount is what allows me to use factory studs by allowing the top spacer to be less thick. But yeah good point I'll definitely want to make sure the nuts engage properly.

With the Skyjacker kit they tell you that you may have to cut down the original studs to get the new spacer to fit properly. That was one thing I didn't want to do.
 
all you cut off is the dome top of the stud.

but good luck and post up before/after pics. and ask if you got questions.
 
I'm guessing that the extra spacer they give me for the lower strut mount is what allows me to use factory studs by allowing the top spacer to be less thick. But yeah good point I'll definitely want to make sure the nuts engage properly.

With the Skyjacker kit they tell you that you may have to cut down the original studs to get the new spacer to fit properly. That was one thing I didn't want to do.


I did struts on our 07, it will be cake.

Was thinking about this too, this will not effect spring rate.

If you have a spring sitting on a table, and you put a block on top, is the spring rate changed?

This is similar to what a Zero rate Add a Leaf does to a leaf pack.....
 
Yes, but you still have the A-arm mounts, the upper spring mount, and the knuckle located in the same places. You are pushing the A-arms downward at a further angle which generates more room but it's not the same distance as the taller spring/spacer assembly. You are increasing the spring rate slightly because you're jamming the taller assembly into a space not as tall as it is.

Been there, done this.
 
Done! Installed the lift tonight.

I'll get better pics tomorrow. Too dark now to get a good overall shot. Test drove it after the install and the ride hasn't changed. Still rides awesome and looks even better. I'm going to get an alignment tomorrow. :waytogo:

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