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Lift Block ?

B

BlazerWheels

1/2 ton status
Joined
Feb 13, 2003
Posts
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Location
California
I know - ditch the blocks....$$$$ dictates otherwise right now. SO on to my question...

If with two ujoints on my driveshaft...and the goal is to keep the angles between the Tcase - Driveshaft & Driveshaft - Pinion roughly the same, wouldn't I need lift blocks that have NO tapered angle on them. By keeping the blocks flat, The pinion wouldn't get rotated, thus the angles would change at the same rate as they were stock. Someone correct me.

Reason - I just changed u-joints, and Put the T-case back to stock position (Took away drop) and Vibration is back....But the pinion is almost pointing right at the Tcase with the tapered blocks.... /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
 
point almost at the tcase sounds like way too much angle. You need to measure the angle of your transfercase output. If you have an output shaft(slipyoke) you need to know what angle that is at. Then you want your pinion to be the same or 2-3* different at the most. When you dropped the tcase it was angled more, probably close to that 2-3*s now you took some angle away but still have it in the pinion.

As for the other question /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
Get yourself an angle finder. They're $9 at home depot in the tool section for the magnetic type. It'll end the guess work.

No, you do not want non-tapered blocks though. When you lift the rig, the change at both ends of the driveshaft is not the same. Remember, if one angle changes, the other one does too. Rolling the pinion up reduces the angle on BOTH joints.
 
I have a angle finder...The angle between Tcase and the drive shaft is 15*....The angle between drivesahft and Pinion is 8* = Difference of 7*. But that is with 6* Tapered blocks.

If I get Flat blocks wouldn't that put me right at 2 - 3*???????? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

I realize as I change the angle at the pinion it will change the angle at the Tcase, but not as Drastic....would it???? /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
 
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Get yourself an angle finder. They're $9 at home depot in the tool section for the magnetic type. It'll end the guess work.



[/ QUOTE ]

Whish I knew that I got mine from the Snap-On guy. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
 
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Get yourself an angle finder. They're $9 at home depot in the tool section for the magnetic type. It'll end the guess work.

[/ QUOTE ]

Whish I knew that I got mine from the Snap-On guy. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

If you didn't realize the Snap-On guy was a thief a long time ago you'd probably have a lot more money in your pockets than you do right now.

I hate Snap-On with a passion. I don't care how nice their tools are. Everything has a point at which it's not worth the asking price. Snap-On figured this price long ago, then doubled it.
 
[ QUOTE ]


If you didn't realize the Snap-On guy was a thief a long time ago you'd probably have a lot more money in your pockets than you do right now.

I hate Snap-On with a passion. I don't care how nice their tools are. Everything has a point at which it's not worth the asking price. Snap-On figured this price long ago, then doubled it.

[/ QUOTE ]

Oh no Ive realized that a while ago. I saw it, needed it and bought it. I am like you I dislike Snap-On with a passion also.
I must admit, sometimes he has some hard to find tools.
 
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I must admit, sometimes he has some hard to find tools.

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I agree. Hopefully there never is a day that I need to buy one. So far I've got by with my Sears stuff, IR air guns and that stuff, and never needed any of Snappy's overpriced crap.
 
[ QUOTE ]
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[ QUOTE ]
Get yourself an angle finder. They're $9 at home depot in the tool section for the magnetic type. It'll end the guess work.

[/ QUOTE ]

Whish I knew that I got mine from the Snap-On guy. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

If you didn't realize the Snap-On guy was a thief a long time ago you'd probably have a lot more money in your pockets than you do right now.

I hate Snap-On with a passion. I don't care how nice their tools are. Everything has a point at which it's not worth the asking price. Snap-On figured this price long ago, then doubled it.

[/ QUOTE ]Snap on makes nice tools. /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif

I have a lot of craftsman tools but lately it seems their ratchets and ratcheting wrenches are not very good quality. The ratchets feel loose and my wrenches have slipped many times. I have mostly Pittsburg tools in my mobile service truck mainly because there are so many tools to buy going with a cheaper brand is the only way to get enough at one time and I loose tools out on the road now and then. I am going to go with a John Deere set of tools next time around with my shop box, John Deere makes some really nice quality polished tools, a lot of my fellow farmers like them.
 
Their ratcheting wrenches are made in China crap. I don't buy those either. Their ratchets were better quality in the past than they are now, but usually I use power tools for any heavy work and thus I haven't had a problem.

Snap-On makes nice tools but they're WAY overpriced.
 
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Their ratcheting wrenches are made in China crap. I don't buy those either. Their ratchets were better quality in the past than they are now, but usually I use power tools for any heavy work and thus I haven't had a problem.

Snap-On makes nice tools but they're WAY overpriced.

[/ QUOTE ] I usually use my small 3/8" air gun when I can too but those ratchet wrenches are nice with my JD combines, they have tons of tenshioner springs with a long piece of all thread through the spring with a nut and a washer to collapse the spring, they come in handy then.
 
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wouldn't I need lift blocks that have NO tapered angle on them

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I haven't been able to find any non-tapered 2" or 4" blocks for my truck that are of a decent quality. All I could find was junk aluminum ones. I ended up making my own out of solid chunks of steel and bolting them to the spring pack, much like a zero rate.
 
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