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Lift blocks

77k5blz

77k5blz

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 12, 2012
Posts
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Location
Mchenry illinois
I put a 4 inch rough country ez ride on my blazer a while back its worked great so far. Ive always heard lift blocks suck and I understand why they can be bad. But has anyone ever seen or known someone to have a problem with them breaking in any way? The one thing I like about them is price diffrence for one and the ord shackle makes the wheel look stupid in the wheel well and I couldnt afford a spring lift its just in the front thats got the leaves im sure you guys know the kit I got thanks.
 
they just dont give you a solid connection between the springs and axles, ive had them slide around and come loose. For ride quality and safety, they should be avoided. Shackle flip or lift springs are a much better idea. But to each their own.
 
skip the blocks ORD shackle flip and a set of zero rates to add an inch to get rid of the saggy rear and relocate the axle.
 
Yeah, you can just use a zero rate to move the axle back to where you want it in relation to the wheel well after using a shackle flip.

I have never seen a block break, but I have experiences their awful wheel hop.

Martin
 
The PO of my Blazer put lift blocks in the front. The blocks were aluminum and they broke, slid, and got deformed. The locator pin on them broke off completely and allowed the movement. U-bolts worked loose, steering and braking issues resulted. Getting the proper lift springs, shocks and brake lines on it made a world of difference.

That being said, I've never seen any blocks on any other trucks break. Also, the ones on my rear axle have been fine (same aluminum blocks as the front had), but I'll still be doing a shackle flip soon.
 
Had 4" blocks in a couple trucks, no real complaints with em. Other than they would work loose everyonce in a while. Ive since shackle flipped er and havent looked back.
 
I have 4" blocks on the rear of mine right now, I've ran them for 7 years and never had an issue. That being said the best way is a shackle flip, plain and simple.. After I get other problems out of the way that are a little more important, I'll eventually ditch the blocks for a flip and use them as paper weights. :D
 
Thanks for the replys guys I didnt know about r5 hat "add a leaf" ord has thats pretty slick re centers the axle and evens ride height cause mine is a ittle low in the back which I hate I was hoping the front would settle more but nope.
 
Ive broke a pair of those cheap aluminum 2" blocks before. Took out one rear shock, rear u-joint and pinion yoke.
 
Aluminum blocks suck the big one, my truck had those on the front when I got it along with a homemade U-bolt made out of all thread.... :doah: needless to say I didn't drive it other than the two miles to the house from where I bought it in first gear thanks to the trans being shot and parked it until those were gone!
 
Broke mine and they popped out. Bent the spring perch and almost lost my axle from under my truck. I will never use lift blocks again. Never use them up front unless they are a zero rate which bolts into the spring pack and becomes part of the spring.
 
Depends how you use it. Street queens and mild off roading is fine, just check the U bolts like you should anyway. Also, use the steel blocks. If its the difference between wheeling and not wheeling, I'd use them.... till I could afford something else. Block kits are cheap and don't hurt the wallet to toss them a few months later.
 
You may or may not get wheelhop. Mine was never real bad with my 454. But I did do the shackle flip for better flex and to remove them.
 
There is a risk of axle wrap when running blocks. They're like anything else, properly installed, good quality pieces that are used for their designated purpose will likely do just fine. Buy cheap ones, or fail to recognize their limitations, and you will be disappointed. Lift springs or a shackle flip are better options, but people have sucessfully used blocks for a long time without issue. Do what fits your budget and needs.
 
One thing nobody seems to take into consideration, when talking about lift blocks, is that you need to make sure the centering pins in both the spring pack and block are the correct diameter. Too many people use centering pins, which are too small for the saddle hole they seat in. This causes the axle thrust angle to shift, thus causing "dog legging".

I put a lot of effort into making sure the centering pin fit on my trucks lift blocks where exactly correct, by taking my lift blocks with me when I bought new centering pins for the spring pack, and test fitting them, then taking the centering pin on the lift block, which was too big, and slowly grinding it down until it was a perfect fit for the spring saddles on my diff.
 
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