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Lift kit installing help

Sorry for the noob question but what are locking rear differentials and why do they make the truck prone to dying? And ya the a/c is on top of my list it gets so hot here..do most have removeable tops? I want wanna them. And I think I'd probably end up bed lining all the interior, or is that a bad idea?
 
They all have removable tops. 73-75 are full convertible. 76-91 are 1/2 tops, the cab cover stays and the rear seat/cargo area gets uncovered.

The locking rear diff in these trucks is a weak design when handled improperly. It's not a bad design in it's function, it just can't handle the abuse it usually sees in an off road environment, larger tires, heavy foot, etc. Known as the G80, gov lock, or gov bomb they have been known to explode at the worst possible time. I wouldn't NOT buy a truck because of it, mine had one and it served me well. It has since been replaced with a much stronger axle assembly.
 
K5trs said:
Sorry for the noob question but what are locking rear differentials and why do they make the truck prone to dying? And ya the a/c is on top of my list it gets so hot here..do most have removeable tops? I want wanna them. And I think I'd probably end up bed lining all the interior, or is that a bad idea?
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Oh, boy.
Jessie kinda mistyped.
Locking differentials do not make a truck more likely to die. But, some of the factory ones are not strongly built, and are likely to die violently under a load.
The ones he was talking about are called Gov Lock, usually called a Gov Bomb around here.
They are fine for driving on the road, and under usual loads, but you put a strain on them, and they kinda crumble.

There are a lot of locking diffs out there, and most of them are pretty good about surviving.
The clutch type are pretty darn tough, but do not lock up as solid as some of the others.

The king I suppose is the Detroit Locker. They can be damaged, but its like breaking a 205 transfer case.
Hard to do.

But they are noisy, and not super driving friendly. You usually put them in hard core offroad trucks.

Its a strange situation in a way. You seriously want a locking diff in an offroad truck, but for Blazers it is not something you want to see in the truck you are thinking about buying, unless its aftermarket .

You also asked what they do, but I will save that for later.
 
Locking diffs and what they do, in short, is send power to both rear wheels equally in a low traction situation. That is the most basic of explanations.

And they are not to be confused with locking hubs, entirely different thing.
 
K5trs said:
And I think I'd probably end up bed lining all the interior, or is that a bad idea?
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It will probably diminish the resale value of the truck, should you ever want to sell it. For example, the only people who will want to buy it are guys looking for an off-road only vehicle. So you're limiting your future options. Keep it nice and clean and you can sell to average guys and off-road guys.

If you're going to drive it in deep water or lots of mud it will be a good thing. Easy to hose out ...

Your truck will also be hotter and louder once you remove all the carpet and backing. And if you plan on driving a lot, like for hours and hours, the road noise can lead to fatigue and headaches. Carpet = comfort.

Beware plugging drain holes in the body. There are probably a few although I am not sure where. If you plug them, water gets inside and cannot get out, so it rusts from the inside out.
 
How can I tell if it's a gov bomb? And thanks for explaining that to me guys! I'm still a bit mixed up about how they work, are They always engaged or do you engage them? damn Im such a noob haha. And looks like the carpet is staying!
 
They always engaged or do you engage them?
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Both, see how simple this all is???

Actually most of the ones you might install or encounter are automatic. When you go around a corner, one wheel goes farther than the other and has to turn faster. That is why you have a differential, so the wheels can move at different speeds.

But, due to the design, if one wheel loses traction, all the power goes to it. That is called an "open" differential.

A locking differential works in a couple of different ways. The clutch type have slip clutches inside that lock the two axles together so they have to turn at the same speed.
But, when you go around a corner, the load exceeds the clutch strength and they slip letting the wheels go at different speeds.
In a slick place, or with one wheel off the ground, some of the power still goes to the good wheel to the limit of the clutches.

Others will let small amount of differences slide by, but when the different wheels start trying to turn fast than a set speed, they lock up with gears or cams. The are better for bad places, but are not as nice on the highway.

All those are automatic, and you don't have to do anything to turn them on or off.

However, there is an Australian outfit that makes one that is fully open for driving normally, and then you flip a switch, and air pressure from a small onboard compressor slides a locking collar over inside the rear end and locks the axles together.

So, you have either automatic ones or manual ones and all kinds of flavors.

Don't even bother asking which is better. Wait until you get your truck, and post a separate thread for opinions.
You will get plenty.
 
That's so helpful those codes tell me a lot about the car as long as they didn't add their own stuff. How can I tell if it's after market besides them telling you?
 
That is the problem with old offroad trucks like these. Unless its obvious, lots of times you can't tell.
And a lot can change 25+ years........

Sometimes there are clues, like if it says its an open diff, and you jack up one side and it won't turn, then someone put a locker in it.

Or, if its got 8 lug wheels, then it ain't stock.....

Most of the time, you have to either take someone's word for it, or pull the cover and look.
 
Man I still have a lot to learn obviously haha. So before I even go look at blazers I ask the owner to send all 9000 pictures Jessie's guide recommends right?:haha: that should save me a trip but I guess the pictures won't tell all, right?
 
K5trs said:
Man I still have a lot to learn obviously haha. So before I even go look at blazers I ask the owner to send all 9000 pictures Jessie's guide recommends right?:haha: that should save me a trip but I guess the pictures won't tell all, right?
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if the owner is willing to get all the pics you want:thumb:.id say look in a 200 mile radius.so its not a waste of time and money to go look personnally.have them get a few pics under the rocker panels under the doors and inside the wheelwells and front by the steering box and rear by the tailpan.those are the worst for rust and frame cracks.if those few pics look good,its probly worth your while to go look at it.i wouldnt go without some cash as well.a 200 to 500 dollar deposit goes a long way.and get a receipt.ive held cars for a short time on a deposit if the guy sincerely wanted it.a brand new paint job can hide a lot of imperfections and bondo,so take a magnet and make sure it sticks aound the problem areas around wheel wells rockers and doors.
 
Alright I'll add those pictures to my list! And judging by the way it's been going I should have 4k cash by mid July! And what's this about receipts?
 
And be sure to get a bill of sale. In some states, like CA, you also need to fill out a release of liability form. You should hit up your state DMV website and see what is required to register is and be all legal.

Whatever you do, don't buy anything without a title and double-check the VIN to be sure it's 100% correct. I didn't do that once, and I ended up surrounded by cops at work one day because the car was stolen.
 
I'm sure you could put the deposit down, but how long is he going to hold it? For two months? Unlikely. FYI - When I allow someone to put down a deposit it's for 1-2 weeks, and it's non-refundable if you don't buy the truck.

I'd ask if you could make payments... and then write something up. He might go for it if you give him $1k or something. That can be a bit of a headache, though, like if he holds title and you get in a wreck ...

And offer him $4200 and see what he says ... bargain up from there. :)
 
Jessie would you mind explaining that to me? I mean how to I get proof of the deal? And do I send the money or what since im 5 hrs away I'd check it out first of course and If it was good i'd give the 1k in person right? I have an uncle up there that's a lawyer if that helps anything.
And if this all goes through..well before I'll post the pictures he sent for you guys to look at.
 
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Well, all things considered, I probably should not have mentioned making payments. I would recommend you wait until you have all your money saved up. Getting in debt to a private party has a good chance of being a major problem if any little thing goes wrong, and you're likely to get taken advantage of and lose your money.

As far as buying a car, check out what the DMV requires. You should get a legitimate bill of sale (not hand written), the title to the truck that is signed by the seller and ONLY the seller, and run a CarFax on the VIN to be sure it's not stolen.

When you do buy your truck, do it in person. Don't bring cash. Instead, agree on a price and then drive to a local bank and get a cashiers check made payable to the buyer. Give him the check, he gives you the title and completed bill of sale.

Here's one that I use, just copy and paste, print it out (found the NM one for you too):

http://www.ilrg.com/forms/billofsaleauto-asis/us/nm

Get a photocopy of his drivers license (or snap a photo of it) and give him one as well.

That form has a place for a Notary, which is someone who verifies the information for a small fee. In your case, it might be wise to have your BOL notarized.

Other than that, ask your uncle. I am sure he can give you some tips.
 
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