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Lift question

78Troublemaker

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have a chance to buy 4inch lift front springs with rear blocks and a steering drop, planning on getting a shackle flip if i do, and i was wondering what else i would need to get to complete the lift?

pretty sure my k5 has 1-2in blocks on it already so i would be taking those off, also would use the shackle flip instead of the block for the rear. so would it even out to a 2-3 inch lift?

apologies if this pops up a lot, im still learning
 
Shackle flips usually come out 4-5" of lift unless you specifically buy the 2" shackle flip. This usually works out well to level the truck since most have saggy rear springs.

You will also need some type of steering correction - raised steering arm, dropped drag link, etc. You will likely need new extended brake lines to keep from popping your hoses at full droop.

In the recommendation department:

1. A shackle flip will rotate your pinion upward which, at least in my case, put it at the perfect angle for a double cardan (CV) rear d-shaft. Some people have drive angle problems and vibes at 4" and some don't. I switched to a CV and had no problems.

2. I would consider the steering box brace if you don't have one already. If your steering angles aren't correct after the lift, it will put a lot of strain on the gearbox/frame. Even if the geometry is corrected, the larger tires we usually run after a lift don't help things, especially since the frame was a weakness even bone stock.
 
For my 4" lift I used:

4" lift springs in the front like your set up.

ORD crossover steering for steering correction (or the other steering corrections mentioned will work)

2.5" ORD rear shackle flip with 6" super shackles and 1" zero rate add-a-leaves in the rear
--This stopped my rear end from sagging and gave me a level ride because the 2.5"+6" of lift at the rear of the spring netted 4.25" actual lift, then the 1" zero rate brought the total to 5.25" total lift.
--The zero rate add-a-leaf also came in handy because by using the shackle flip (which only drops the rear end of the spring), it caused my axle to relocate forward about and inch. Fortunately the Zero rate had pre-drilled offset holes, so I used the 1" offset holes to move the rear axle back and keep my rear wheel centered in the wheel well.

Pics of my 78' with the 4" lift:

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=314931&page=7
 

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