CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Lift (to lift a vehicle off the ground)

Dirsuper

1/2 ton status
 Premium
Joined
Nov 1, 2012
Posts
681
Reaction score
567
Location
Ramona, CA
Two post lift, or four post lift, that is the question.

I have worn out the search function, but we use 'lift' in a different context most of the time so I have not found much about the subject.

My dream shop (30' x 50' with 12' ceilings) is just about done. Too late to change anything with the shop, so I have what I have. Now I am lift shopping. I've read a lot of stuff on GarageJournal and it seems like a pretty even split between 2 or 4 post lift. I have used both, but it's been over 25 years (gas station mechanic before my career in the Navy).

I have two K5s ('88 & '72). The '72 will be torn apart as soon as the shop is done. The '88 is in great shape and I drive it all the time, so really just maintenance on that one. Point is, I will be lifting K5s most of the time.

I know that it is easier to do a lot of stuff on a two post, but I also know that a four post is easier to use (no hitting doors, no setting lift arms, greater stability, etc). I did some measuring and it looks like lifting from the frame with a two post will only have the arms about 4' apart. Will it be stable on the lift like that? Anyone on here using either a two post or a four post to work on a K5? If so, any insight or lessons learned?

Your input is greatly appreciated.
 
2 post all day long IMO.

Can't really do any suspension work or take suspension or axle parts off on a 4 post. Well unless you have other fancy accessories to do so.

Have had mine on my buddies lift hundreds of times. Plenty stable.
 
Same, I have access to a two post lift and have used it on my 76 many times, never had any issues with stability.
 
Another vote for 2 post. Although a 4 post would be nice to use for storage reasons, for something smaller. I'm into hot rods & kustoms as well. If I ever have a big enough shop to have 2 lifts, I would probably get a 4 post as one so that I could put something up in the air & then park a short vehicle under it
 
2 post, just get some good stands to put at either end of the frame. 4 post is nice, but seems like all the work I do couldn't be done on a 4 post without the crazy accessories. I really like how open a two post is.
 
I feel nervous under a 2 post lift,even though they are supposed to be "safe"..they do offer easier access to the undersides of a vehicle,but I like driving on ramps better than guessing where the "right place" is to position lift arms on a 2 post lift..

Many vehicles my friend puts on his old 2 post Rotary lift need wood blocks placed between the lift pads to avoid crushing the "nerf bars" and fiberglass steps on many SUV's,and you have to place the lift arm pads on the leaf spring hangers (the solid ones towards the front of the vehicle on the rear springs),and he's had a few try to slide off when he's torquing a bolt,or removing a heavy item like a transfer case..(his lift pads have no rubber on the pads,if they used too,they are gone now).

He's had a few close calls as far as vehicles sliding off it,also he's had a lift cable fail with a vehicle on it,leaving it "stranded" ,and it was a real chore to lower it safely,so the cable could be replaced (and it took 3 tries to find the right one to)--last year a leaf chain failed on it,luckily it broke just as he went to lift a full sized pickup,not while it was up in the air..

I had a chance to buy a nice 11,000 lb ramp style lift that was used mostly for 4 wheel alignments,(alignment machine included & the turntables too)--but it also had two rolling air jacks, so the tires could be lifted off the ramps to do brake & tire work,and to lift a transmission up into place,etc..it was a bit awkward to work under it ,but it felt a lot safer to me than any of his other 2 post lifts..his boss decided to sell the shop he was renting from him,all the old equipment "had to go"..

I could have owned it for 100 bucks,but unfortunately someone else heard about it sooner than I did..he bought it,had a guy haul it to his yard,where it sat outside for 5+ years..far as I know it might still be there,probably junk now..:(..would have been perfect for my garage..:doah:

My friend also had a "FIAP" lift made in Italy that had a electric motor mounted on one of the two posts,and it used a timing belt drive to spin 2 long Acme threaded screws on each post to lift the arms up..it had a floor plate with a motorcycle chain driving the other post's Acme screw..

He had the brass "nuts" that did the lifting fail after years of use,and had to have a machine shop make new ones,as no parts were available any longer..
It had a 6500 lb capacity,I was offered that one for 100 bucks too,but I passed on it,it was a scary lift, and my truck weighs more than 6500 lbs..

I ran out of money after erecting my garage,so I never did get a lift,it was the first thing I wanted to get for it too...once you hit 40 or so,lying under a vehicle sucks royally,puts you in agony for weeks...without a lift your pretty much boned as far as doing a lot of the repairs on newer cars like FWD that need the sub frame dropped,etc...
 
2 post / name brand ( rotory - bendpack ) / 10-12k rating on weight for good overkill buffer zone / know the floor spec requirments before you put in concrete. if in floor heat will be used leave a section out for the lift to be bolted in later .

also celing hight is a big factor . the cross bar requirments are 1 thing . hood up or roof rack = more room needed.
 
2 post / name brand ( rotory - bendpack ) / 10-12k rating on weight for good overkill buffer zone / know the floor spec requirments before you put in concrete. if in floor heat will be used leave a section out for the lift to be bolted in later .

also celing hight is a big factor . the cross bar requirments are 1 thing . hood up or roof rack = more room needed.

I agree with this. I have been looking into a lift for my shop in the next year or so, and I am down to Bendpak or Rotary. A 2 post asymetric is what I want so I can open the door easier on the lift if needed.

For me a 4 post wasn't even an option. If you plan to do any actual work to the vehicle you will want a two post. If you just plan to lift it to store it or change the oil then a 4 post would be better.
 
I feel nervous under a 2 post lift,even though they are supposed to be "safe"..they do offer easier access to the undersides of a vehicle,but I like driving on ramps better than guessing where the "right place" is to position lift arms on a 2 post lift..

Many vehicles my friend puts on his old 2 post Rotary lift need wood blocks placed between the lift pads to avoid crushing the "nerf bars" and fiberglass steps on many SUV's,and you have to place the lift arm pads on the leaf spring hangers (the solid ones towards the front of the vehicle on the rear springs),and he's had a few try to slide off when he's torquing a bolt,or removing a heavy item like a transfer case..(his lift pads have no rubber on the pads,if they used too,they are gone now).

He's had a few close calls as far as vehicles sliding off it,also he's had a lift cable fail with a vehicle on it,leaving it "stranded" ,and it was a real chore to lower it safely,so the cable could be replaced (and it took 3 tries to find the right one to)--last year a leaf chain failed on it,luckily it broke just as he went to lift a full sized pickup,not while it was up in the air..

I had a chance to buy a nice 11,000 lb ramp style lift that was used mostly for 4 wheel alignments,(alignment machine included & the turntables too)--but it also had two rolling air jacks, so the tires could be lifted off the ramps to do brake & tire work,and to lift a transmission up into place,etc..it was a bit awkward to work under it ,but it felt a lot safer to me than any of his other 2 post lifts..his boss decided to sell the shop he was renting from him,all the old equipment "had to go"..

I could have owned it for 100 bucks,but unfortunately someone else heard about it sooner than I did..he bought it,had a guy haul it to his yard,where it sat outside for 5+ years..far as I know it might still be there,probably junk now..:(..would have been perfect for my garage..:doah:

My friend also had a "FIAP" lift made in Italy that had a electric motor mounted on one of the two posts,and it used a timing belt drive to spin 2 long Acme threaded screws on each post to lift the arms up..it had a floor plate with a motorcycle chain driving the other post's Acme screw..

He had the brass "nuts" that did the lifting fail after years of use,and had to have a machine shop make new ones,as no parts were available any longer..
It had a 6500 lb capacity,I was offered that one for 100 bucks too,but I passed on it,it was a scary lift, and my truck weighs more than 6500 lbs..

I ran out of money after erecting my garage,so I never did get a lift,it was the first thing I wanted to get for it too...once you hit 40 or so,lying under a vehicle sucks royally,puts you in agony for weeks...without a lift your pretty much boned as far as doing a lot of the repairs on newer cars like FWD that need the sub frame dropped,etc...

Two post is only as safe as the guy using it. wood blocks...thats scary, and equalizer cables are sized WAY overkill, they would have to be in really bad shape (plenty of warning) before they failed completely.


Two post clear floor is the only way to go. 10k pretty overkill for a blazer, but will lift heavier stuff if you ever need to.
 
2post lift gets my vote as well.

Working on finishing up my shop and it will be getting a 2 post in a bay on the end. They are so much more versitile.

You might want to go higher with your ceilings too. Or specify to the builder that you want 12' after the floor is in. Most overhead crossbar 2 posts are 12'9". One with a floor bar can be a little shorter. Most also require room to be able to stand the post up. I know the one I'm looking at needs 13' to stand the post.

FWIW: I went with 14' ceiling in mine. Room for a loft you can stand up in is nice.
 
I have heard and seen a lot of lifts in my shop days .

all I can say is my money if I buy one is ROTORY :waytogo:

not to say others are bad just my preference for some few little things .
 
2 post 100%.

I lift crew cab 3/4 ton diesel trucks on them all the time with out issues.

If the rocking scares you get a couple of tall screw jacks to support it.
 
Two post without a doubt. I have lifted a lot bigger rigs than a Blazer on 2 post lifts.

Is your ceiling finished at 12'? That is gonna be a little low.

Martin
 
So I will play devils advocate here. If it were a money no object I think I would buy a 4 post. The problem lays in the 3500 bucks worth of sliding jacks stands and removable ramp sections and stands after I spent the 2500 to 3k on the lift.

So for me 2 post all day long cause a 4 post would run me several thousand dollars to get it set up the way I want.
 
I've used 4 posts with jacks. I still say 2 post.

Martin

The one I used had some fancy jacks. Just not under axle jacks like most but you could lift the frame up. Not high enough for a suspension that had alot of droop, but with adaptors it would work.

Like I said the jacks cost each nearly what the lift did. So pretty cost prohibited. I don't remember what company it was either.

Hence the reason in my actual world I would buy a 2 post
 
2 post 100%.

I lift crew cab 3/4 ton diesel trucks on them all the time with out issues.

If the rocking scares you get a couple of tall screw jacks to support it.

x2 on this .

but also make up a sign to hang on the down valve handle / button . JACK UNDER VEHICLE so you don't have a oh shiiiiiiiit :doah:seen a guy almost do this 1 time he forgot he had a screw / tripod jack in the back . :whistle:
 
Two post for all the above reasons.....Plus It make easy to lift bodies off frames. Also if you get one wide enough, you can back a trailer in between the posts and easily lift a non running vehicle off it.
 
x2 on this .

but also make up a sign to hang on the down valve handle / button . JACK UNDER VEHICLE so you don't have a oh shiiiiiiiit :doah:seen a guy almost do this 1 time he forgot he had a screw / tripod jack in the back . :whistle:

Good Idea. Haven't had that happen..........Yet.
 
A 2 post is more versatile,no doubt..you can back under one with the arms raised and use them to hoist a heavy object out of a truck bed,like an engine,etc..and lift a cab up ,which is a must on some trucks to do certain engine work,like Ford's 7.3 oil pans,etc..

My older brother bought a monster 2 post lift,I forget what brand,but it had 12K capacity and the two "posts" did not have the bridge going across both ,he had some issues when it was first installed ,the posts tended to tilt inwards with a heavy truck on it..
He had to do some re-working to the floor & concrete to anchor it better,and used angle irons to spread the load across more area..
That solved the problem..its something to think about when you have an existing floor,whether it'll be suitable or not to support a lift..

He said he'd opt for the lift with the "bridge" if he had to do it over,but then you cant lift a box van or other high profile vehicle..

In my case the "ramp" lift would have been best,because the slab in my garage is only 4" thick and tapers to about 3" near the sides,it would be marginal for a 2 post lift without having to jack hammer the floor up and pour some deeper footing pads..the particular lift I missed out of could have probably been used without anchoring it too,and be able to be moved out of the garage if need be..
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom