Lifting an 86 one-ton

[ILYA]

I am looking for the proper way to lift my 1986 one-ton flatbed diesel... All I want is about 4-6 inches of lift, nothing too crazy... Some day I d like to get a 4-link done though, just not yet...

I've heard of people using 1/2 or 3/4 ton front springs, which are obviously softer, and then some cheap blocks on the back... I am not planning on hauling a bunch of weight, but would not mind a bit softer ride and more articulation... My front springs are 49" and rears are 56"... Are all front springs the same? So, if I just picked up a cheap used block lift kit from say a Blazer or Sub, would it just bolt in? Or are there some diffeernces? Am i going to need a drop pitman arm with a 4" kit? Am I going to need to change the driveshaft or axle angles (its longbed, 135" wheelbase)???

What are the pros and cons of using lower-rated springs?
Also, how about rear blocks vs shackle flip vs add-a-leaf?

 

[nvrenuf]

All off the shelf front lift springs are the same, 1/2 to 1 ton. The only way to get "1 ton" springs is to have them custom built. As for the rear, towing vs shackle flip is an on going debate.

I had a 91 crew cab that I lifted 6" with a Rough Country kit. I used the Rough Country brand because they had the highest spring rate to help carry the weight of the 4 door cab. My kit originally had a 2" add-a-leaf plus a 4" block. I had problems with the aal's breaking so I eventually swapped that combo for a 6" Dodge block.

 

[ILYA]

so it looks like i would have to get different D60 u-bolts to use the blocks from a lighter truck...
is there any cheap way to do a shackle flip?

 

[nvrenuf]

so it looks like i would have to get different D60 u-bolts to use the blocks from a lighter truck...

Huh? you mean blocks for the rear not the front, right?

 

[ILYA]

yes... so i guess its the 14BFF blocks...

 

[nvrenuf]

Most likely you'll need to get a 3/4 ton kit so it will automatically have the correct rear u-bolts and then you'll have to request the D60 u-bolt substitution.

As for steering, a dropped pitman arm would probably be perfect for a 4" kit.

 

[ILYA]

the tires shown are 235-85-R16
here are some pictures:

 

[SUPERSUB87]

rough country is a great kit because they have everything you need and you can buy them all at once. i have a six inch kit for my 3/4 sub and it is great. it has the higher spring rate which is good for when i'm towing our boat and other things. hardly any sag. and it has great road manners. if you do go with the 6" kit make sure you get replacement rear springs and blocks. so you don't have to deal with the a-a-l.

 

[425 Xpedition]

I used 6" Tuff Country springs front and rear when I changed the lift on my crew cab. Still tows well and rides good. Hell it rides better than my K5 with 4" Tuff Country EZ Ride springs.

 

[gmc4cw]

I have seen you say in more then one thread that your truck is an extended cab. It is a regular cab. GM only made regular and crew cabs in 1986.

If you use anything other then blocks on the rear of your truck you will lose the use of your overload springs. this is not necessarily a bad thing. just something to point out if you want to keep taking advantage of the high payload of your truck.

If I were lifting your truck I would use 6 inch springs in the front with longer shackles and crossover steering. In the rear I would install a 2.5" shackle flip, 6" long shcakles and 4 inch springs.

 

[ILYA]

well, by "extended" i guess i meant the wheelbase, it was mentioned that its actually called "longbed", so i stand corrected, its wheelbase is actually 135"

what i need to figure out now is what is the biggest size of tires i can fit on these particular rims, or other dually rims, without changing out the hubs... that will determine what size of lift i will need - 2", 4", or 6"

what are the steering differences between the above three heights?
there are drop pitman arms and there are steering blocks...

also shackle flip vs the blocks - what are the ideas?