newk5driver
Registered Member
Hi, like my title said I am wanting to lift my k5 I'm 16 and don't have a ton of money so I have a slight budget. All advice is appreciated.
CK5
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Lifting my K5
- Thread starter newk5driver
- Start date
newk5driver
Registered Member
what do you recommend?
ccarley
1/2 ton status
I completely understand being on a budget... although it may take some time, I bet you can find all the bits & pieces to get a lift done fairly inexpensively. Or, at least you can spend a little bit at a time on it. Keep your eyes on the local Craigslist, and there's a for sale section here as well.
Myself, owning a Suburban with a 4 inch lift on 35's, would recommend a 4 or 6 inch lift. But, let me tell you, you don't want to end up with something that isn't fun to drive anymore. Spring brand is something to watch out for. I always hear decent things about the Tuff Country springs, and am running their HD version of the EZ-ride up front. When I got the Suburban, it had Pro-Comp springs in the front, and they rode like a dump truck. The rear was bad as well; stock saggy springs with blocks, and the original shocks in the rear. Now I have Pro-Comp 4" lift 56's in the rear, and it's so much better. Damping is by Bilstein; 5100's in the rear, and 7100's in the front. There are deals around... I bought each component individually, so the cash outlay didn't feel so bad.
Don't forget some sort of steering correction as well! And, make sure your ball joints, tie rod ends, shackles, etc. are all in good shape before you start. Any lift and bigger tires will just make the problems worse.
Get ready to get dirty!
Good luck!
Clay
Myself, owning a Suburban with a 4 inch lift on 35's, would recommend a 4 or 6 inch lift. But, let me tell you, you don't want to end up with something that isn't fun to drive anymore. Spring brand is something to watch out for. I always hear decent things about the Tuff Country springs, and am running their HD version of the EZ-ride up front. When I got the Suburban, it had Pro-Comp springs in the front, and they rode like a dump truck. The rear was bad as well; stock saggy springs with blocks, and the original shocks in the rear. Now I have Pro-Comp 4" lift 56's in the rear, and it's so much better. Damping is by Bilstein; 5100's in the rear, and 7100's in the front. There are deals around... I bought each component individually, so the cash outlay didn't feel so bad.
Don't forget some sort of steering correction as well! And, make sure your ball joints, tie rod ends, shackles, etc. are all in good shape before you start. Any lift and bigger tires will just make the problems worse.
Get ready to get dirty!
Good luck!
Clay
Carcinogen
1/2 ton status
How much lift are you looking for? or what size of tires are you looking to fit? Are you willing to chop up your fenders?
I'm with Clay, I'm running 4" lift and 35's and would like to go to 6" of lift. I have not cut my fenders and they rub when stuffed and the wheel is turned but a body lift and/or zero rates would also probably fix it.
I'm with Clay, I'm running 4" lift and 35's and would like to go to 6" of lift. I have not cut my fenders and they rub when stuffed and the wheel is turned but a body lift and/or zero rates would also probably fix it.
newk5driver
Registered Member
I want a 4 inch with 35s, no fender trimming this is a daily driver not a offroader.
meanboyjr
1/2 ton status
Not trying to be a jerk, but if it's your DD with no offroad plans, why are you lifting it at all?
If you are planning to keep it mostly on the pavement, and must have a lift, I'd say go smaller - maybe a 2.5" bump on 33s. 4" and 35s isn't a great recipe for a street truck, IMHO.
Check out my build thread on my 1988 V10 Suburban if you want to see the cheapest ways of doing things.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251067
My recommendation is to look for a three pack of front springs, buy a set of zero rates for the front, and 2" lift blocks for the rear, and then install a 1" body lift with new body mounts.
Martin
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251067
My recommendation is to look for a three pack of front springs, buy a set of zero rates for the front, and 2" lift blocks for the rear, and then install a 1" body lift with new body mounts.
Martin
EXJAY
1/2 ton status
if its going to be done on a budget and street use only just go with a 3" body lift to get "the look". Personally I'd look at a 3-4" suspension lift (blocks rear/packs or add aleaf front) and some 33's. Like others have said, shop around and piece it together as money allows, look in the classifieds for someone selling theirs on the cheap for a taller lift etc.. Dont forget the lift/tire pic thread to see some more options.
Keep in mind though, on a short wheelbase truck like the K5, if you go to a 4-6" suspension lift, you then also have to think about driveline issues. Vibration, pinion angle, etc. Each truck is slighly unique but a lot of these issues start popping up around the 4" lift area.
I have 2.5" and had to drop my T-case because of driveline vibration. I guess mine is more sensitive.
More issues means more dollars. Yes, it can be addressed but it just takes more dollars.....
I have 2.5" and had to drop my T-case because of driveline vibration. I guess mine is more sensitive.
More issues means more dollars. Yes, it can be addressed but it just takes more dollars.....
newk5driver
Registered Member
When building a four inch lift what are the parts I need? Steering stabilizer, extended brake lines, shocks, leaf springs, drop steering arm, drop t-case kit. Is that all I need or do I need other stuff?
figure out your budget for parts and call these guys for the 1 stop shop deal . www.offroaddesign.com
and as said even some guys with 4" need a c/v rear drive shaft to eliminate drive line vibrations. and DONT drop the t-case crossmember it creates more problems than it solves a lot of the time.
me i would do 2" -3" tuff country springs and rear shackle flip in the 2.5" version with a 1" zero rate in the mix . all parts from ord link i posted.
then new body bushing kit with 1" body lift all from ord . this will get you best all around and 3-4" depending on your front lift of 2-3 " you pick .
and if your rig has any rust or you live in the rust belt be prepared for extra work and down time . trust us on this one .
and as said even some guys with 4" need a c/v rear drive shaft to eliminate drive line vibrations. and DONT drop the t-case crossmember it creates more problems than it solves a lot of the time.
me i would do 2" -3" tuff country springs and rear shackle flip in the 2.5" version with a 1" zero rate in the mix . all parts from ord link i posted.
then new body bushing kit with 1" body lift all from ord . this will get you best all around and 3-4" depending on your front lift of 2-3 " you pick .
and if your rig has any rust or you live in the rust belt be prepared for extra work and down time . trust us on this one .
Those are the main parts. New, longer shocks too. Stabilizer shock not "required".
Probably new driveline u-joints too unless they have been changed recently. You'll be putting more strain on them so want to have fresh ones in there.
T-case drop is not a fix all solution, but a band-aide. You'll get some negative comments here when suggesting this option as a fix. The better solution would be keep the t-case in stock location and get a new drive shaft with a CV joint up at the t-case. Still though, $400-$500 driveshaft. And this would be still with the slip yoke option on T-case.
Others would suggest a SYE (slip yoke eliminator) to your t-case. Another $400-$500 plus your new Driveshaft.
So, as I said, a can of worms starts openning up.....
Post some pics of this truck.
Don't body lift more than 1 inch. Idk who recommended that
. Your truck will look terrible. Even a 1 inch will make the stock bumpers look a bit off.
What are the specs on your truck? Engine, trans, gears, axles...etc. We need more information to give you proper advice.
What is your experience with working on vehicles?
Being 16 I would hate to see you take a truck apart and not get it back together for months. I do this all the time (I'm also like captain slow at working on things), but at age 16, months feel like a lifetime when you'd rather be chasing tail and cruising around. I'm guessing this is your only and first car?
Don't body lift more than 1 inch. Idk who recommended that
. Your truck will look terrible. Even a 1 inch will make the stock bumpers look a bit off.What are the specs on your truck? Engine, trans, gears, axles...etc. We need more information to give you proper advice.
What is your experience with working on vehicles?
Being 16 I would hate to see you take a truck apart and not get it back together for months. I do this all the time (I'm also like captain slow at working on things), but at age 16, months feel like a lifetime when you'd rather be chasing tail and cruising around. I'm guessing this is your only and first car?
They usually have a christmas sale on tuff country springs and other parts. This is definitely worth waiting/ saving up for.
euzoa
1/2 ton status
This! What do you want to do with it? on 31s I've gotten into places I shouldn't have been, had tons of fun and broken things. Even stock you can have a lot of fun with some decent tires on it
newk5driver
Registered Member
My k5 has zero rust but I do live in Michigan, so It may be a problem in the future. What do you think about a 3 inch suspension lift and a 1 inch body and 33 to 35 inch tires.
A 1" body lift is one of the best lifts you can do.
Martin
Martin
Well, I guess thats a matter of opinion. I think a lifted body looks a little on the dorky side. He's trying to do this on a limited budget. A 4 inch lift is the most common lift out there and will be the easiest to find used and probably the cheapest. Why buy a lift and then spend more money on a body lift? Plus a lift is the same amount of work if it's 3 or 4. No need to add the work of a body lift that makes more work to line the bumpers back up or just leave it and have the bumpers not line up to the body any more. Just my view, not saying your view is wrong.
I agree from an offroading standpoint. It gave me more clearance to work on lots of things under my truck also.
If the ops truck is rust free and he wants it to be showier I know I personally would not be happy with the fit of my bumpers.
I also had a lot off difficulty with seized bolts in collars making installation require cutting grinding and air hammers.
