That's weird...when I search on NAPA for neutral safety switch I get a little plug shaped thing with two bladed on it...looks nothing like my column switch
CK5
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Lighting Issues
- Thread starter Chief Brody
- Start date
The neutral safety switch and back up switch is on top of the steering column by the firewall. It looks like a half circle.
The switch should have slots in the mounting holes to adjust the position.
The switch should have slots in the mounting holes to adjust the position.
OK...it's called a Park/Neutral position Switch....and they are $40
Chief, when I look at the schematic, I see a LG and a DG, light green and a dark green on the two sides of that switch.
You should be able to jumper between those two and the backup lights should come on.
Do not know if the key has to be on or not. It might.
There are two switches for that truck. A backup light switch, and a backup/safety switch.
The backup only is for manual transmissions. The safety for them is on the clutch, I think.
Again, Ford guy here...........
You should be able to jumper between those two and the backup lights should come on.
Do not know if the key has to be on or not. It might.
There are two switches for that truck. A backup light switch, and a backup/safety switch.
The backup only is for manual transmissions. The safety for them is on the clutch, I think.
Again, Ford guy here...........
yes, that connector does have a lt green and a dark green wire....unfortunately it did not do anything when I shorted it...
I did get the switch adjusted to where it starts in neutral.
I freakin' hate electrical...makes no sense
I did get the switch adjusted to where it starts in neutral.
I freakin' hate electrical...makes no sense
those two green wires are in the column aren't they? They come from something up in the column?
What if I were to short the two tabs on the switch itself?
What if I were to short the two tabs on the switch itself?
nope...that did nothing...
Is the fuse good? If so, does the fuse have good connection?
the fuse is good but I replaced it anyway...
I've tried key on and still nothing...
I haven't put a meter on the connector yet...guess I will do that...
The backup light has to be a separate circuit from all the other rear lights....
I've tried key on and still nothing...
I haven't put a meter on the connector yet...guess I will do that...
The backup light has to be a separate circuit from all the other rear lights....
According to the schematic, there is a fuse, labeled "bu lps" that should power the dark green wire.
There is one other thing.
Have the backup lights ever worked since you put in the new wiring harness?
My schematic shows the light green wire also going into the engine compartment through the bulkhead connector and hooking to a switch on a 4 speed transmission.
If they have never worked, your harness might be wired for that switch. Which, of course, you don't have.
If so, I guess you would just tie those wires together and let the column switch do the job.
There is one other thing.
Have the backup lights ever worked since you put in the new wiring harness?
My schematic shows the light green wire also going into the engine compartment through the bulkhead connector and hooking to a switch on a 4 speed transmission.
If they have never worked, your harness might be wired for that switch. Which, of course, you don't have.
If so, I guess you would just tie those wires together and let the column switch do the job.
There is no wire going to the transmission...there never was...not on the old harness and not in the new harness....
I can't be sure...I am almost positive that they were working when everything else wasn't....
I am just about sure of it because that is the only time the 1156's work...and I have seen them light up.....
I am seriously crashing tonight. Its been a long day of work at the hunting camp trying to get it ready, and I am running slow.
I saw the 4 speed switch as an option in the schematic, and thought it might have been in the new wiring harness.
The backup lights go through the plug in the back, and I think change to a black wire.
I'll have to look again.
Meanwhile, I would put a meter on the dark green wire to make sure its hot.
If not, then put the meter on both sides of the bu lps fuse to make sure it is hot. If you have power at the fuse and at the switch, then its after the switch.
Let me see what I have in the way of schematics I can post.
If I don't get back, I fell asleep......
I saw the 4 speed switch as an option in the schematic, and thought it might have been in the new wiring harness.
The backup lights go through the plug in the back, and I think change to a black wire.
I'll have to look again.
Meanwhile, I would put a meter on the dark green wire to make sure its hot.
If not, then put the meter on both sides of the bu lps fuse to make sure it is hot. If you have power at the fuse and at the switch, then its after the switch.
Let me see what I have in the way of schematics I can post.
If I don't get back, I fell asleep......
Looks like the same problem as before...I got power in the green wire up to the fuse block but not on the other side of the firewall...
Something is still not making good contact in harness buckle...everything is working but the backup light wire...I don't see how this is possible...the harness is firmly seated all the way in...I hate to mess with it again but if I want the backup lights to work it looks like I will have to
Something is still not making good contact in harness buckle...everything is working but the backup light wire...I don't see how this is possible...the harness is firmly seated all the way in...I hate to mess with it again but if I want the backup lights to work it looks like I will have to
This may make things worse. But one of my schematics shows something strange that concerns the backup lights.
Check this out and see if you have anything like it.
You are looking for a wire labeled 18LG-24.
If you look close, you will see it in the number 24 position of the engine bulkhead fitting, going to that 4 sp backuplight switch I was talking about.
I don't think you have it there.
It also appears in the front lighting plug, number 24 position. But, it goes to another plug and then it seems to head back toward the back of the truck.
Not sure, I will try to check the other schematics.
But, if you have that other small plug, that might be where the problem is.
And, don't forget the plug under the back end where the lights split up to go to both sides of the truck.
You have been working around that on the tailgate problem and might have bumped that plug.
Check this out and see if you have anything like it.
You are looking for a wire labeled 18LG-24.
If you look close, you will see it in the number 24 position of the engine bulkhead fitting, going to that 4 sp backuplight switch I was talking about.
I don't think you have it there.
It also appears in the front lighting plug, number 24 position. But, it goes to another plug and then it seems to head back toward the back of the truck.
Not sure, I will try to check the other schematics.
But, if you have that other small plug, that might be where the problem is.
And, don't forget the plug under the back end where the lights split up to go to both sides of the truck.
You have been working around that on the tailgate problem and might have bumped that plug.
OK, I checked. That LG wire, after going through the bulkhead, and supposedly going to that other connector, then goes all the way back to the rear lighting connector under the back end.
Given the first rule of troubleshooting, which is to go back and check on the last thing you did before the trouble started, even if it seems to have not link, I would check that plug under the back end.
Since you have pulled the tailgate off recently and worked real close there.
And I hate to abandon you, but I am going to hit the rack as Quint would say......
Check out my shaking thread in the lounge. I hope our far Northwest members are OK....
Given the first rule of troubleshooting, which is to go back and check on the last thing you did before the trouble started, even if it seems to have not link, I would check that plug under the back end.
Since you have pulled the tailgate off recently and worked real close there.
And I hate to abandon you, but I am going to hit the rack as Quint would say......
Check out my shaking thread in the lounge. I hope our far Northwest members are OK....
that 24 comes out in a short "pigtail" harness that plugs into the the other half of the connector on the ribbon that goes all the way back to the rear....I suspect that somehow the #24 tab inside the main buckle is not making contact for some reason...the wire has no power as it comes out of the buckle and before it reaches that pigtail connector
I will try to fix it tomorrow...it's later than I thought...
Man, I just woke up. What the heck was wrong with me last night??
Anyway, hope you get this in time.
The LG wire is not hot unless the switch is closed. The DG wire is the power lead, so unless you have jumpered the switch, looking for power on the LG wire will not work.
Make sure you are either using an ohmmeter to check the bulkhead connections, or have jumpered the switch if you are checking for volts.
Of course, DO NOT use an ohmmeter if there is a chance the wire is hot.....
Anyway, hope you get this in time.
The LG wire is not hot unless the switch is closed. The DG wire is the power lead, so unless you have jumpered the switch, looking for power on the LG wire will not work.
Make sure you are either using an ohmmeter to check the bulkhead connections, or have jumpered the switch if you are checking for volts.
Of course, DO NOT use an ohmmeter if there is a chance the wire is hot.....
