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Lock-right, Detroit, power Lok

C

crazyrc

1/2 ton status
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Jan 20, 2003
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Location
Northern Alberta, Canada
Hey guys, of course I would prefer a full detroit...but right now $$ are the big issue. I found a new take out power lok posi for $100. I'm wondering if I'm wasting my time with a posi. Will it even keep both 40's spinning. THis is for a front Dana 60. Some is better than none

Next question...I've heard from a couple of guys lately that lock rights for a Dana 60's are actually fairly tough. I'm running 460HP and 540lbs torque. Will a lock right grenade or would it be a good investment. By the way I run mostly mud etc. No rocks where I live!
 
Welcome to CK5 dude...fill out yer profile when you get a chance./forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

You already know my opinion on the Lock Right...

Also you could try a search through the archives. There was a long thread on Lock Rights a few months back.

Rene
 
I've heard that Power-locks are a very strong and very positive limited-slip that should work good in mud...but no personal experience. I know that it's little brother, the Trac-lock, is not very positive.

I know several people who have ran Lock-rights in front Dana 60's. All of them were running 39-42" tires and used them mostly for mud with healthy V-8's. Only one guy actually broke one while running 42x15 Swampers and a built big block, but this guy is VERY hard on parts such a breaking numerous Dana 60 stub axles and just about everything else on his truck.
 
I run Power-locks front and rear. Front for me is a Dana44 and rear is Dana60. Hands down the Power-lock is the best and tightest posi out there(my opinion of course). My rear and front seam to stay hookup most all the time. THe PLock can be rebuilt and you can set the preload for super tight or some what loose by adding or removing cluch rings. My front PLock is much newer than my rear and the rear has never let me down.
Make sure the PLock you looking at will carry the gear ratio you want. I am running 4.11 in my D60 and if I wanted 4.56 I would not beable to use my current PLock, that is the cutoff ratio....
Good Luck and WELCOME!!! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Burt, what you said is true about the Powr-Lok being the best clutch-type posi ever created. I am running one in the front 60 of my Suburban with 44s and it has never let me down. /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
 
For a D60 front, I say put a Lock-Rite in it. For details on my opinion (if you care), do as was suggested and try the search...
 
Hey guys, thanks for all the input. I read the post on Lock-rights in Dana 60's and I think thats what I'm going to end up doing. Bang for the buck it looks pretty tough to beat the Lock right.

Oh yeah, in case you guys didn't know, the Detroit Electrac is now available for the Dana 60. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif Nice, but somewhat pricey...about 1500can. About 940 for U guys. THis selectable acts like a limited slip until you engage it.
 
Yeah, the electric locker is a great (if obvious) concept. However, I think they screwed up making it a LS/locker. I would much rather have it open/locked. Open for cruising at speed, no "pushing through" (which a good LS does). Open is also what I want for best turning radius, and even on icy side hills and such. Works good with cutting brakes too. I fail to see what LS/Locker really gets you, but I can clearly see advantages to open/locked...
 
on ice a LSD is better than open or locked, because it won't chirp the tires and loses traction, but if one tire is on ice the other will receive some power. that's my guess why they did it like that
 
Have ya ever been on an icy sidehill with posi front and back? It's downright scary! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif The rig only wants to go one way, downhill. The posi units force all 4 tires to turn, so as soon as they slip sideways, they all slip together. Guaranteed to ruin your undies. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif Sometimes it's actally a good thing to have a tire or two acting as an anchor. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
I see someone with experience here.
Yeah open is better on icy roads.
The worst is quicklocks front and rear /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
I almost wet my pants a few times in one trip.
 
Looks like Harry saved me the trouble... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
i am so glad to live in the desert and not have to worry about ice,snow,mud but it would probely be pretty cool to wheel in that stuff for a change!!! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
 
Just to let you know, I just ordered a lock right for my Dana 60 front axle.
Price was $304 total
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />

Qty Name SKU Price Sub Total
------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 Lockright Dana Spicer 60 35 spline axle 1 piece carrier2620 $304.40 $304.40
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sub Total $304.40
Tax Total $0.00
Shipping: Ground $0.00
Grand Total $304.40


[/ QUOTE ]

Looks good to me! Lunchbox locker AND strong.

On a side note, I found that Powertrax sells Zytanium (brand name) cross shafts for most axles, but I can't find any reference to a d60 Zytanium cross shaft. I have found the Dana 30 and Dana 44 cross shafts listed. I am assuming the stock cross shaft is deemed strong enough.
-- Mike
 
For a front application I agree that an open/locked would be better. However for a rear application, especially for a truck driven on the road, I like the idea of a l.s./locked option. After having pickups with open and limited slip I will never get another one without at least the factory limited slip in the rear (again, this is for daily driver and very mild off-road). I hate driving pickups with open diffs, especially in the rain because you just can't get going without spinning tires, and having to constantly lock and unlock the diff would be a pain.
 
National Drivetrain

Free shipping on orders over $300, which mine barely made.
I can't wait for it to come in.
I like this - I paid $300 for my rear detroit and now $304 for this front lock right. That's less than just an ARB costs. Plus, no resetting the gears which can really add to the cost /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
-- Mike
 
Hope you have better luck w/ your Lock-Right. I had one in my rear 10-bolt, $250 from Randy's R&amp;P. Shredded it in 3 months - stock 350 w/ 200,000 miles and 33s. Not playing that game anymore. Scored a 14-bolt for $100. Building it up and stuffing in a Detroit - $330 for the 14-bolt from Randy's.
 
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
Hope you have better luck w/ your Lock-Right. I had one in my rear 10-bolt, $250 from Randy's R&amp;P. Shredded it in 3 months - stock 350 w/ 200,000 miles and 33s. Not playing that game anymore. Scored a 14-bolt for $100. Building it up and stuffing in a Detroit - $330 for the 14-bolt from Randy's.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yeah, I've heard the lock rights are weaker in the d44/10bolt version. Mine is going in a d60 and is a much bigger/stouter piece.
I got my detroit from Randy's too - good people there.
-- Mike
 
Thanks, that would save me $75 vs Reider racing. Have to pay the 6% sales tax since I'm in the same state as reider racing. Was about $394 delivered from them.

I've bought several trucks with detroits in the 14bolt FF. Had good luck with all, except the detroit I bought brand new. It was for a 14FF as well. Never seemed to work right, more noise than usual. Most noticeable was when I had the 44s and driving on a flat pipeline with about 4" of mud and the back tires quit turning. Drive shaft turned, not tires! Would back up, then go forward and nothing.

I called the factory and they said "It can't do that". Well it DID! Got it on tape where the front went in the hole and started to spin while the back tires were high and dry doing nothing. 2 months later got my money back.

Still recommend the product, customer service needed a little work.
 
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