Lock right is acting up

[Chevy305]

So I have been running a lock right in my 14bsf rear end since I swapped it in last fall. I know they bang and pop but mine is really bad and does it even when driving in a straight line sometimes. Its been getting progressively worse. I am running 80-90 blend in it, should I kick it up to 85-140?

I had a lock right in my 10bolt rear for almost three years prior and it was never this bad.

 

[TerryD]

Sounds like the locking teeth are wearing out and it is slipping. A friend of mine had this happen in is Ranger and it eventually wouldn't move it's self. He just put in the spiders again, welded them up and ran it till he swapped to a 9" with a full spool.

 

[Chevy305]

Sounds like the locking teeth are wearing out and it is slipping. A friend of mine had this happen in is Ranger and it eventually wouldn't move it's self. He just put in the spiders again, welded them up and ran it till he swapped to a 9" with a full spool.

I should pop the cover and inspect then. Good thing its still under warentee

 

[rcamacho]

Check your clearances between the lockright couplers if your carrier allows it. If the clearances are off it will not function properly.

 

[pauly383]

Is it actually a Lockright , or another brand . I had the same problem with a Genuine gear Quic Loc ( same as Detroit EZ locker ) . Wouldn't go away even after a new axle housing and carrier .

I went with a real Richmond Lockright in 2005 , and haven't had issues .

If you have beat on it , and its a real Lockright , try flipping the crosshaft so it hits new metal and pushes the sides out farther ( Marv Springer taught me that one ) ...... although you shouldn't have to do this for a long time .

Oh , and use a heavy shockproof oil , like Redline , Royal purple , or Amsoil . It will quiet down a little and not sheer off in use .

 

[Chevy305]

Is it actually a Lockright , or another brand . I had the same problem with a Genuine gear Quic Loc ( same as Detroit EZ locker ) . Wouldn't go away even after a new axle housing and carrier .

I went with a real Richmond Lockright in 2005 , and haven't had issues .

If you have beat on it , and its a real Lockright , try flipping the crosshaft so it hits new metal and pushes the sides out farther ( Marv Springer taught me that one ) ...... although you shouldn't have to do this for a long time .

Oh , and use a heavy shockproof oil , like Redline , Royal purple , or Amsoil . It will quiet down a little and not sheer off in use .

It is a brand name Richmond lock right. I dont beat it any harder than I did with my 10bolt lock right. But then again I did buy the hardened cross shaft for my 10bolt... I'll have to open it up and take a look, that could be my problem...

 

[keelue]

I had a lock right in my 10bolt rear for almost three years prior and it was never this bad.

sorry i can't help, but i was wondering what size tires you were running in the 10 bolt with the lockright and did you break any axles? i'm thinking of getting one but i run 35's and i've heard mixed things about tire size

 

[Chevy305]

sorry i can't help, but i was wondering what size tires you were running in the 10 bolt with the lockright and did you break any axles? i'm thinking of getting one but i run 35's and i've heard mixed things about tire size

I have been running 35s with that combo and this one as well. I did break one axel shaft attempting to do a brake stand on dry pavement... I figure that one was my own fault, but otherwise I have had no other breaks. My only reason for upgrading to the 14bsf is in preparation for a 400hp+ 355 that I am building.