Lock-Rite Locker Pulls Hard During Turns

[pierce88K5]

I found a good deal on a lock-rite locker for my 10 bolt front end in my 1988 K5 Blazer (brand new for free!). I upgraded my front rotors and hubs to 8 lug to match the 14 BFF in the rear (lots of grinding on the backing plates and calipers to make those 15" rims fit!) and while I had everything apart, I installed the lock-rite. I noticed that there were not any C-clips in the front like there are in the rear on a 10 bolt, but I suppose that is normal? After everything was together and it passed the operation check on the jack stands, when I drove it though it would pull hard to the right in a turn. I would let go of the steering wheel and it would straighten itself out and go straight without any problems. It will do this under power and when I let off the gas. It would even do it when out of 4 wheel but with the hubs locked in. Would the front disc brakes dragging cause this problem by not letting the tires disengage the locker? It acts just like a full spool (outside tires chirping during the turn). I am currently having some proportioning valve problems also. Any ideas would help.

 

[AZ79K5Project]

Did you check the spacing with the spacer block during the set-up? Did it unlock like it is supposed to when checked during the setup?

I would not run with my front hubs locked on the road with that locker. I run the same locker in my front 10 bolt with no issues. I do not run on the street with the front hubs locked. I'm only locked when I am on the trail.

The locker will not disengage while under power. I may be misunderstanding, but you don't want to run locked in 4WD while on pavement.

 

[pierce88K5]

I did not check the spacing with a spacer block since the locker did not come with one. The locker operated fine while on the jackstands (locked and unlocked when it was supposed to). I am thinking that trying it out on the pavement may have been what was causing the problems. I have not had a locker in the front before and apparently the front does not like being locked on the pavement. Time to get on the local proving grounds and try it out there instead of on the pavement. Thanks for the info.

 

[Stomis]

You cant drive with a front locker on the street. Its just not doable nor is it safe, especially with a lunbox locker. Theres a reason guys convert to manual hubs and or buy selectable lockers. Your front axle needs to be completely free spinning on the street.

Besides why are you driving around with your front hubs locked? Its just more wear.

 

[pierce88K5]

I was just testing to see if it worked off the jack stands. I thought it would work the same way as the rear end (clicking noise in the turns as the outside wheel unlocks) but apparently with the front end pulling vice pushing like the rear end, it behaves differently. I now know the error of my ways and will only wheel with it on the trails vice urban settings!

 

[6.2Blazer]

I've ran a Lock-right in the front with drive flanges (i.e. no locking hubs) for years and if you have it in 2wd there shouldn't be any issues driving on the street. With no power coming in from the driveshaft it should be unlocked.

With that said, if you were driving in 4wd with the hubs locked on the street it would likely pull in a turn. The reason is that even though you may be coasting around a corner, the front and rear axles are binding a little and thus not releasing the pressure on the locker gears and letting it unlock.

FYI: I've ran my K5 with a welded 14FF and Lock-right front, 10 lbs. of air in 39.5" Swampers, on dry pavement for a couple of miles before realizing it (kids were playing jungle gym in it and hit the shifter). Straight lines and normal turns onto streets obviously did not seem any worse as compared to the normal welded rear/low tire pressure driving, only when I tried to do a u-turn was it noticed..........and no, it did not explode and kill a bus full of nuns either

 

[pierce88K5]

Thanks 6.2Blazer. I believe as you do that even though the front and rear are 3.73 ratio, there is just a little bit of difference between the 14 BFF and the 10 Bolt front revolutions while on pavement that keeps the front locker locked while turning to cause it to pull to one side. I still have not had a chance to test it in the dirt yet (three week old baby keeps me busy ).

 

[BILTIT]

You cant drive with a front locker on the street. Its just not doable nor is it safe, especially with a lunbox locker. Theres a reason guys convert to manual hubs and or buy selectable lockers. Your front axle needs to be completely free spinning on the street.

Besides why are you driving around with your front hubs locked? Its just more wear.

Up here we drive with the front hubs locked all winter. Never notice it pulling until in 4WD (have lockrite in the front too). Keep them locked up and in 2WD with no issues though.

We lock them because you can go into the ditch at anytime, in well over 4ft of snow. Good luck locking hubs in that situation.

It is very noticable on pavement in 4WD but most streets are covered in snow and ice so the tires slip easily.