90BCk5
1/2 ton status
detroits front and rear. i run em' just unlock your hubs! 
CK5
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Locker choice.
- Thread starter hammermachine
- Start date
Lockers
Thanks for the advice. I have alittle time to think this through. (I won't get my tax check until late April or May). I still don't know which way to go.
Thanks for the advice. I have alittle time to think this through. (I won't get my tax check until late April or May). I still don't know which way to go.
k20
3/4 ton status
my k20 is a street queen. I got a locked pretty much as its wheeling days ended, but I was tired of the 1 wheel peels on the street with the 496. I put a Lock-rite in it, it was a little strange when I first put it in, it took awhile to 'wear in'. At first it took forever to unlock and when it did, it let you know. After 1000 miles or so, it was fine, and now I dont really even notice it unless I have the window down and I can hear it click. The tight on & offramps on the interstate can be fun in the rain, if you are on the gas and let off really quick, or vice versa, it can be a little fun, but you quickly get used to it. Go with a detroit, lockrite, or something like that
Huffed Blazer
1/2 ton status
As I'm in the north, I'm pretty much required to use a selectable due to ice and snow. That leaves ARB and the electrac for selection. I was going to run ARB's until I was informed that the air lines can ice up and block off.
Prolly not a problem in Australia where they are built, but up here...
Looks like I'm gonna be running a wire.
Prolly not a problem in Australia where they are built, but up here... Looks like I'm gonna be running a wire.
hoodride
1/2 ton status
As I'm in the north, I'm pretty much required to use a selectable due to ice and snow. That leaves ARB and the electrac for selection. I was going to run ARB's until I was informed that the air lines can ice up and block off.
Looks like I'm gonna be running a wire.
I would think that if it's properly installed with a filter to remove water from the air in the lines (which you would want even if it wasn't freezing, as the line goes straight to your diff
) there would be no freezing, but i've never run ARB's, let alone in freezing temps.
Huffed Blazer
1/2 ton status
I would have to run an air dryer or something similar in the lines. It's condensation buildup in the lines, from the air being compressed. Being that they are so small (about 1/4"), it doesn't take much to plug up.
trucknace
1/2 ton status
WHAT ABOUT AN OX LOCKER. Cheaper than ARB's no compressor no electricity just a cable. Sounds like a good idea in theory 
Locker hunt
I couldn't find one for a chevy 10 bolt anywhere online.
WHAT ABOUT AN OX LOCKER. Cheaper than ARB's no compressor no electricity just a cable. Sounds like a good idea in theory
I couldn't find one for a chevy 10 bolt anywhere online.
I've heard bad things about OX - the company has been unstable, so that would worry me. they have also done a few design changes in the past, because of engagement issues - who knows if they're fixed yet
Lockers
So I'm still weighting the options, right now I'm thinking 1) upgrade to manual hubs, 2) run lockrites front and rear. Please let the advice fly!
So I'm still weighting the options, right now I'm thinking 1) upgrade to manual hubs, 2) run lockrites front and rear. Please let the advice fly!
Thunder
3/4 ton status
If the truck is going to be driven on the street. I would go with a powertrax up front. Lockrite in the rear. Powertrax is a far more forgiving locker for the front than a lockrite. I have used both lockers in the front. Powertrax is way better than the lockrite.
Locker
Still undecided, the issue is the snow/ice problems with automatic locker.Leaning towards a lockright for the rear.
Still undecided, the issue is the snow/ice problems with automatic locker.Leaning towards a lockright for the rear.
I ran, and will again, Lock-Rites front and rear. 14ff and D60. Terrible on slippery roads. Wet and rainy, no probs, but snow and ice are a different story. I think any locker in the rear will cause stability probs on the slippery stuff. You don't have the one wheel rudder to keep you straight. With both being "driven", the rear tends to go all over. Maybe in 4 wheel drive without a locker in the front, you can make some headway, but I don't know. Just my experience. I probablly won't go far if there is snow on the road. But, I willl still go with the Lock-Rites front and rear, and drive it daily aside from snow and ice.
Lockers
Yeah that is a concern, but one guy in my crew says if I get one for the rear and switch to 4wd it would be fine in snow and ice. I never drove my last Blazer (which was locked) in the winter.
Yeah that is a concern, but one guy in my crew says if I get one for the rear and switch to 4wd it would be fine in snow and ice. I never drove my last Blazer (which was locked) in the winter.
Thunder
3/4 ton status
I drive my K5 locked front and rear in snow and ice all winter. I have no problems at all getting around. It is my primary DD in the winter.
Usually dont use 4x4 unless the snow is real deep. Most times on the road with a lot of snow or ice I run with just 1 hub locked in the front.
I have a detroit in the back and powertrax in the front.
You just have to learn how to drive your truck different than you are used to when your axles are locked.
Usually dont use 4x4 unless the snow is real deep. Most times on the road with a lot of snow or ice I run with just 1 hub locked in the front.
I have a detroit in the back and powertrax in the front.
You just have to learn how to drive your truck different than you are used to when your axles are locked.
Alot of my problems may be the tires themselves. The TSL radial is probably not the best snow tire. Maybe a set of studded mudders or studded all terrains would be very helpfull!
I have a Detroit in my burb drives fine in the snow/ ice / rain whatever. Its no different then my old Nova with a posi get on it and the rear steps out get off it straightens back out. Does doughnuts really nicely . ARB or OX for the front for me just haven't decided which, just want a selectable for crawling issues.
. ARB or OX for the front for me just haven't decided which, just want a selectable for crawling issues.
Locker
Still undecided, tore between a lockright and a Elocker. This last winter my car (rear wheel) was bad in the snowy hills around where I moved. Next winter I want to be prepared with the Blazer, So I'm still leaning towards the Eaton Elocker.
Still undecided, tore between a lockright and a Elocker. This last winter my car (rear wheel) was bad in the snowy hills around where I moved. Next winter I want to be prepared with the Blazer, So I'm still leaning towards the Eaton Elocker.
Ultimate CC
Registered Member
i am in the same boat as you...
Burbdood 74
Giver of not a single damn...
I had a 1990 Blazer that puked out it's 10 bolt rear. I got a replacement with an Auburn Limited Slip. I mainly trail drive and I never had a problem with having just a limited slip instead of a full locker. In the snow and ice, the limited slip had good manners and when it came time to have traction on both rear tires, it handled it everytime.
The only drawback to having a limited slip rear end is having to put in the extra additive for the clutches. That means one more thing you'll need to carry in your truck when your out on the trail to be fully covered.
The only drawback to having a limited slip rear end is having to put in the extra additive for the clutches. That means one more thing you'll need to carry in your truck when your out on the trail to be fully covered.
