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Locking factory temp sender connector?

dyeager535

dyeager535

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Anyone ever seen one? Can't believe GM continued to use the same connector that (apprarently) doesn't lock. Maybe all the ones I've ever seen are broken, but it doesn't look like it ever locked like some of the other connectors.

Just wondering if there is anything else out there thats "standard" in it's readings for the 0-90 ohm gauge, that will actually lock. Usually not a problem, but was checking my wires, bumped that wire, didn't notice it, and it got a touch hot. Rather just prevent the problem if possible.

Don't really care if I have to swap the sender, as long as it's something I can find in the 'yards...maybe Vortec (since that's what my heads are with the "small" diameter temp sender), Van 4.3L or later SBC apps in the Camaro's?

Hmm, now that I think about it, did they ever combine the ECM and gauge senders? Never seen it, but since they did similar with the oil pressure switches/senders, it might exist?
 
I recently worked on a 94 GMC 1500 and it had a "locking" connector on the temp sender but IIRC it is a 2 wire sender. It was very similar to the CTS.
 
Hmm, I was hoping you would have seen something. :)

I wonder what they did with a 2 wire...perhaps used the same principle as they did on the ECM, reference voltage, but that would seem overly complex and costly.

How about a water pressure sender? Ever mounted one of those on a block? I'm curious what they actually run... Just a one time deal to check, not a constant thing, although would be interesting to see the t-stat open. :)
 
My 94 Astro has a locking connector on the water temp sensor. I just can't remember off hand if it was two wire or a single wire connector. I will take a look when I get home in the morning, since it is all disconnected right now.
 
I'd appreciate it. I'd be able to clean the wiring up some if I could ensure that the connector will stay on. Any tension on the wire now at all and it pops off, as it did at least one other time simply from bouncing while driving.
 
The 94 has a two wire clip, the older 88 I had had a clip on the connector, but it was broke. Basically it slides on, then in the center of the sending unit post there is a small dimple that it locks into. Unfortunately, the sending unit is in between the exhaust manifold so the plastic doesn't last long.
 
Don't have a wiring diagram for the '94 by any chance, do you?

I'd like to figure out why or how GM used a 2 wire lead on the later rigs, but got away with 1 wire for a bazillion years earlier...
 
I do in the manual I have at the house. I will take a look and post up on Sunday when I have access again. I will be offline for a few days getting the engine swapped out of my 92 into my 94.
 
My best guess is that GM ran the gauges through the ECM on the later rigs so a 2 wire sender was needed.
 
That would make the most sense, in the crappy '94 Astro wiring diagrams I could find online last night, only could find a HD app. coolant temp switch and/or one coolant sender.
 
Did a bit more research into the 94's setup, and although it appeared to be a two wire setup, it is a single wire. It has an oval shaped two prong style connector, with the rubber baffle to seal it, but a single wire. Completely possible to steal this setup from an Astro and install into a Blazer or truck. I have an Autometer connector that screws on, so I don't need it for my setup. The older 92 has the older style connnector that is already broken. I couldn't figure out why my wiring diagrams only showed a single wire, so I pulled the wire wrap back to see it.
 
Cadillac 500 uses the same sending unit ohm range and the terminal is single wire with a screw to attach.

EDIT, Can't remember the pipe thread size though.
 
When the connector fails on any of my GM vechicles...I just replace it with a female spade connector. Been doing that for about 6 years on about 9 vehicles. Never had a problem with any of the gauges reading wrong.
 
toomany said:
When the connector fails on any of my GM vechicles...I just replace it with a female spade connector. Been doing that for about 6 years on about 9 vehicles. Never had a problem with any of the gauges reading wrong.
Click to expand...
I think the problem is the connector falls off since it does not have any way to lock itself after it breaks. Ron Francis sells a replacement connector body but it looks like it does not have a locking tang.
 
JDNobodi said:
I think the problem is the connector falls off since it does not have any way to lock itself after it breaks. Ron Francis sells a replacement connector body but it looks like it does not have a locking tang.
Click to expand...


I know that is the problem...the factory one has the metal tab on the back of the connector. Basicly using the presure from the way the tab is bent to hold it on. After removing/replacing a few times it will get bent out of shape. By replacing it with a connector that has more surface area, it stands a better chance of staying on. Plus you can tweak the fit of it by squezing the sides.

You might also try safety wiring the factory one on. May want to put something over the wire to protect it from getting cut first.
 
Hmm, thats good news, thanks!

I'll see if my dad can't grab one from the wrecking yard, verify that the sender threads are the same as what my vortec heads have. I expect that they will be.
 
Mine is a Vortec 4.3l, so it should be the same. Of course I say that before I actually pull the two to swap.
 
I did swap the sending units and they are both the same size thread. Everything has gone together so easy on this thing, I am starting to get worried about what is going to go wrong.
 
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