Could be ?..I tried linking the sales flyer from their web page but it wouldn't work..
CK5
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Locking rear storage for soft tops?
- Thread starter urbex
- Start date
Billyworld
I now know that i will never finish this truck.
I am of the opinion that an expensive looking box is just as tempting as anything it might contain. Also, high end box denotes high end contents. I'm getting a worn-looking army foot locker. The best we can hope for is to deter the "lazy" thieves anyway. Besides, the footlockers are cheap, and cool as hell.
A leash and a live version of Abusfullofnun's avatar!
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I was gonna build a sweet set up that would have a rear hatch lid that was level with the roof rack mounts, but then I said screw it and just bought a husky tool box. But I really like it, you lose big stuff storage but gain security
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If the weather is appropriate, he’s in there. If the windows are down, I’d recommend not taking a closer look. He’s a sweet boy as long as one doesn't cross the line.
He looks like a nice German Shepard(?). I miss the one I had when I was a kid; part Shepard, part coyote. He was a really great dog.
That ammo can mount is badass!
He has donated 3 of those each year for the last 2 years. BB is the only event he donates to.
Yep, and I can vouch for how cool it is. Got one mounted in the back of the K5 thanks to Swag and BB18!
I need some more info on those side panels
urbex
1/2 ton status
Actually, your pictures gave me another idea earlier today as well. I'd really like to get a pair of subwoofers back there, but security issues aside, I still don't want a typical sub box back there eating up room. I'd gladly give up some SPL for a stealth type box, which is exactly what I did in the Z28, S10 Blazer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee.
What I'm thinking now is to build some plywood side panels, but bring them out to be even with the inside edge of the wheelwells where they meet the cargo floor. Along with the obvious top panel, this should give me plenty of cubic feet of air space to drop a 12" sub on either side, between the wheel well and B-pillar area, utilizing otherwise wasted space. Whatever space is left oven could be under a hinged cover, providing additional storage space. Carpeted well, it could even blend in well enough that no one would realize it's storage, and perhaps just assume it's a flat top area like the back of a Jeep Wrangler. Would be easy to build out some wooden drawers in the middle, or just put a hinged cover over that as well, along with the carpeting.
I just built em outa 3/4” plywood and added a door for random tools and one for a small rifle painted inside and out with waterproof paint. I like the way they turned out
The long slide out drawers don't make sense strictly for security unless you're storing an expensive inventory in there. Their main purpose is for convenience of access. I think I could have all my gear stolen a couple times and then replace it for less money than the drawers cost. When I work out of the back end of a low rider (i.e. stock Suburban), it's no problem climbing in the back from time to time to move tool bags around. For overlanding or working out of a lifted rig, drawers would be awesome. I'll probably get some 48" slides at some point and figure out to make plywood units that are solid without adding 200lbs.
I built side panels out of marine plywood and covered in blue vinyl (the previous rendition was MDF and it began to swell in places after several years). The idea was to get all the cubic feet available behind those panels. There are 6x9s up between the 1st and 2nd row seats and low profile 12" subs behind the wheel wells. Definitely not a high performance enclosure since you can't get a real seal, the shape profile is all wrong, the plywood isn't super rigid and neither is the sheet metal. I just got tired of leaving the sub box home whenever I had any gear to carry. I recommend building the sub boxes as complete independent enclosures, rather than using part of vehicle as part of the enclosure. Then build your side panels to fit around them. For in front of the wheel wells like you propose, look at that carefully. Having those stick out will really effect loading passengers into the back and also storage of stuff behind the front seats. I use that rear footwell space all the time.
urbex
1/2 ton status
Ease of access is exactly my thoughts as well on the drawers. Between the lift and tires, AND the tailgate on the Blazer, reaching things that have moved up against the rear seat is essentially impossible for me without climbing up into the truck. Part of me wishes GM would have taken a page from International, and just made the whole back end a liftgate like International did with the Traveller. If I end up doing full length drawers, I can see wood as not being able to handle the weight of a drawer full of steel tools and accessories well without overbuilding the drawers and seriously cutting into available interior space of the drawers.
With the exception of the Z28, where I purchased a JL Audio Stealth box, I built the rest of them out of MDF, and fiberglass to follow the curve around the wheel wells in the rear cargo area, but doing that molding is a real PITA with the fiberglass. Doesn't bother me to lose of bit of CF inside the enclosure to just do it all out of wood and flat pieces. I learned a long time ago that going overboard on trying to get perfect acoustics out of speakers and enclosures in a vehicle is pretty much a waste of time, especially in something like an old truck with a softtop, as the acoustics of the vehicle itself is so lousy to begin with. $5000 worth of Focals aren't going to sound any better at 65mph than $500 worth of Kicker or Infinity in this thing. In the Caddy, it may make sense to go to that level, but certainly not in a drop top Blazer, lol.
Losing rear seat access isn't a problem either for me...I can count on one hand how many times that rear seat has been used, and the only reason I haven't pulled it already was not wanting to take up space in the garage with it, lol. I'm thinking the space between the wheel wells and front seats will become dead space to me pretty quickly, and it seems like a couple subs in there would be the perfect solution to that
With the exception of the Z28, where I purchased a JL Audio Stealth box, I built the rest of them out of MDF, and fiberglass to follow the curve around the wheel wells in the rear cargo area, but doing that molding is a real PITA with the fiberglass. Doesn't bother me to lose of bit of CF inside the enclosure to just do it all out of wood and flat pieces. I learned a long time ago that going overboard on trying to get perfect acoustics out of speakers and enclosures in a vehicle is pretty much a waste of time, especially in something like an old truck with a softtop, as the acoustics of the vehicle itself is so lousy to begin with. $5000 worth of Focals aren't going to sound any better at 65mph than $500 worth of Kicker or Infinity in this thing. In the Caddy, it may make sense to go to that level, but certainly not in a drop top Blazer, lol.
Losing rear seat access isn't a problem either for me...I can count on one hand how many times that rear seat has been used, and the only reason I haven't pulled it already was not wanting to take up space in the garage with it, lol. I'm thinking the space between the wheel wells and front seats will become dead space to me pretty quickly, and it seems like a couple subs in there would be the perfect solution to that
Jim burton
Registered Member
cabelas has a fast and easy $100 box for the wheel well. https://www.cabelas.com/product/aut...0/cabelas-wheel-well-box/1955891.uts?slotId=0
