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Lockright or Detroit

carpeonnel

carpeonnel

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 12, 2005
Posts
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Location
Sylvester, Georgia
I've been saving for a detroit to get put in my k5 but I ran across a guy yesterday that said he's got a Powertrax lockright locker he was gonna put in his K30, but sold the K30 before he did. Said he'd take $175. Said it's brand new in the box, never been taken out. So here's the question: Should I save up for a Detroit or is the Lockright Locker a good deal and worth it?
 
I will personally never run another lock rite... The thing almost killed me and two of my friends in my blazer. I had just finished the gear in my 12bolt and had picked up a lock rite cheap so i threw it in. I was on the way to friends house when the rear end locked up on me, bound up and then shot shrapnel out the cover. I had less than 15 miles on it b4 it self destructed. I later found out they are only meant for 35's or smaller. I was running 37 boggers at the time.

Save for a detriot ive yet to have 1 fail on me in my rigs.
Just my .02$
 
Save up for the detroit. Best locker out there IMO.
 
D60 Lock Rights seem to survive very well, the rest don't.

If its for your front D44 I wouldn't expect it to survive.
 
what about 14BFF lockright ?
is it strong enough for 33" tires ?
 
I have a 10bolt with Yukon Axles and a Loc Rite. I dont do any hardcore wheeling, mainly sand trails and what not, but I havent had any issues with mine. Ive launched pretty hard on pavement with no ill effects. Personally I think it comes down to how you drive. If you are hard on the skinny peddle, save up for the detroit, The detroit replaces the whole carrier and requires the rearend to be setup. The loc tire just replaces the spyder gears.

For the record ive got 305cid, 700r, 4:10 gears and 33 x 12.5 x 15 tires (M/T baja radials)
 
I have been running my same lockright in my rear end for 2 1/2 years. I have never had a problem with it. I am also very hard on launches usually. Since I have installed it, I have adjusted my driving so not to buck going around corners nor to allow the locker to become slacked then pound it in a hard take off.

for the record I have a 305/465/10bolts/35"s
 
Txchevy18 said:
I will personally never run another lock rite... The thing almost killed me and two of my friends in my blazer. I had just finished the gear in my 12bolt and had picked up a lock rite cheap so i threw it in. I was on the way to friends house when the rear end locked up on me, bound up and then shot shrapnel out the cover. I had less than 15 miles on it b4 it self destructed. I later found out they are only meant for 35's or smaller. I was running 37 boggers at the time.

Save for a detriot ive yet to have 1 fail on me in my rigs.
Just my .02$
Click to expand...

And you installed it right...
Did you set the gears back up, or at least check them...

I've seen lock rite's spin 42's in dana 60's all day long, and handle a rather heavy foot behind a doubler...

I will run a lock-rite any day in a front dana 60 :laugh:

Detroit is great, but it's also more $$$,
 
bigjbear said:
So what is the differance between a Lock-Rite and a Detroit in a FF14B? Just trying to understand your reasoning here.
Click to expand...

From what i recall...

The lock rite in a dana 60 is big... therefor it's size allows it to be MUCH stronger than a 12 bolt or 10 bolt version. It WILL hold up just fine with a trail rig.

The lock-rite doesnt replace the carrier in a 60, it just replaces the spider gear/guts...

The detroit replaces the carrier...
Biggest draw back on a detroit (in a front 60) is if you snap a front inner axle shaft, it's a 75% chance it's gonna kill the detroit as well...
this isnt an issue with the lock-rite.
 
Reading the specs in his sig (since he didn't bother to say what it was going in) this would be for a 14b, both are drop in.


As far as breakage- Detroit vs LR- they function the same so the risks are also the same.

Most drop in locker failures are due to week or worn cases and center pins.
 
I pushed 560HP through a 465/205/60/14ff, both ends lock-rited, heavy pedal alot. Never had a problem!
 
I'd venture to say that anyone blowing up a rear end after 15 miles on the road did something horribly wrong. Doesn't matter what tires are on there. Personally, I thrash a lockright with 38.05's and a doubler. No issue with it, and I bought one cause my friends wheel with 42's and a lockright, behind well built 383's and a doubler. I don't worry about it at all.
 
So basically what I hear everyone saying is that if you have a lockright installed correctly you shouldn't have a problem. Yes it's going in a 14bff. If your LR exploded after 15 miles, I think I'd have to lean on side of an improper install
 
Ive ran lockrites, had one in my 12 bolt rear and 10 bolt front. They worked great, even swapped into different 12/10 bolt housings for better gears and still worked great. Pony up and get a hardened centerpin, mine were so worn down after a year of use that i had to pound it out and get new ones. Randy's r+p sells the hardened centerpins. I ran mine on 36-12.50-15 tsl's.
 
When they get worn, I've heard of guys swapping the couplers around so they wear the other side of the teeth and get a 1 or 2 more out of them.
 
I had to beat it out when i was taking it apart, they start to oval in certain spots. When i installed it, it dropped right in. I really didn't want to beat it back in and try to line up the bolt that holds it in the carrier. The hardened centerpin was 15.00 each about 3-4 years ago, who knows now.
 
onetonbb74 said:
Ive ran lockrites, had one in my 12 bolt rear and 10 bolt front. They worked great, even swapped into different 12/10 bolt housings for better gears and still worked great. Pony up and get a hardened centerpin, mine were so worn down after a year of use that i had to pound it out and get new ones. Randy's r+p sells the hardened centerpins. I ran mine on 36-12.50-15 tsl's.
Click to expand...

x2, get the hardened center pins
 
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