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lockright?

gmc4cw

gmc4cw

1/2 ton status
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any one running a lockright in a front 60? I ran one in a 44 before and broke the pins after a few times out. But I tend to push the truck hard sometimes.

are they worth looking at for a 60? I know everything is bigger but if the pins are the same size it wouldn't last an hour in my truck.

I would love a selectable locker for the ease of turning when I don't need to be locked but they are big $$$.

If your suggestion is to just weld it then don't bother posting. If I was going to weld it then I would put a spool in. no point in ruining a good carrier that someone else might pay for.

I AM very tempted to just run a spool. the parts to do hydro assist are on the way. but would there be a noticeable difference in turning with a spool versus locker?

I currently have slugs and do not have a desire to run selectable hubs. I could, but thats more money. $200 for a spool and $160 for hubs is close to $385 for a lockright.

Am I thinking about this too much? It really needs to get busy here at work.:rolleyes:
 
87BrnRsd said:
Detroit.:deal:
-Harrison
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I know, I know. I just don't want to spend that much. I want an ARB but I definitely do not have a $1000 laying around to throw at a truck I'm lucky to drive once a month. I'm not cheap, just poor enough right now.
 
I ran a Lockright in an '84 Dodge Crew Cab with 39.5" boggers and a strong 360. Never had a problem with it. Had a buddy with a 454 Chevrolet in his that busted it. If I remember correctly though they replaced his at no charge. I just put one in the rear of my V30 (Dana 70HD). I guess it depends on how hard you're gonna beat it!
 
tvguy said:
I guess it depends on how hard you're gonna beat it!
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isn't that why you go to a 60. so you can beat on it. I would love to be nice to my truck but some things require throttle. Haven't rolled it yet, but you never know.

this is my truck. click on the image to play the video.
 
I have one in my 60. A friend bought it used off ebay and it blew up but it showed decent signs of wear. He warrantied it and I bought it and have it behind a big block on 40s and I like the skinny pedal and so far no problems. I have the hardened center shaft.
 
Did you speak to Richmond about the pins breaking? I can't see why they should break unless your centre shaft was badly worn. They don't really do and 'work' as such.
I've never driven with a spooled front but I'd imagine it's almost impossible to steer?
 
southernspeed said:
Did you speak to Richmond about the pins breaking? I can't see why they should break unless your centre shaft was badly worn. They don't really do and 'work' as such.
I've never driven with a spooled front but I'd imagine it's almost impossible to steer?
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I didn't think to try and go the warranty route. I just bought new pins and springs. it was $13 from my local speed shop. I realize the center pin keeps them from doing much work but some how they broke. I bought one at a swap meet once that had broken springs for $10. I geuss the guy thought it was junk at that point. $13 for new pins and I had a $200 locker for a 10 bolt.
 
gmc4cw said:
I didn't think to try and go the warranty route. I just bought new pins and springs. it was $13 from my local speed shop. I realize the center pin keeps them from doing much work but some how they broke. I bought one at a swap meet once that had broken springs for $10. I geuss the guy thought it was junk at that point. $13 for new pins and I had a $200 locker for a 10 bolt.
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Nice find! May be worth an email to them to ask their opinion. Just can't see why those pins would break unless, like I said, the centre shaft was in a real bad way.
 
barneybasher1010 said:
in the owners manual it says the pins must be hardened. Mabey thats why they kept breaking.:dunno:
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The manual talks of the cross shaft being hardened, unless I've lost the plot we're talking about the small pins and springs that keep the unit aligned under coast.
 
one word..WELD...same as a spool...remeber you not looking to spend big $$$ then theres your anwser
keepItSimpleStupid.....
 
gmc4cw said:
If your suggestion is to just weld it then don't bother posting. If I was going to weld it then I would put a spool in. no point in ruining a good carrier that someone else might pay for.
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you must have missed this. welding a carrier is not keeping it simple. it is ruining a part that has value.
 
I have had mine for 4-5 years now, first on 37's and first day out popped a mile marker hub---locker was fine (have heard stories of hubs breaking and killing the detroit.) then on 42's and now on 39's and havent had a single problem. I tore the axle down a few months ago and i noticed one chip on one of the teeth but nothing worring about.
 
southernspeed said:
The manual talks of the cross shaft being hardened, unless I've lost the plot we're talking about the small pins and springs that keep the unit aligned under coast.
Click to expand...
OOPS I read it again and you are right.:D
 
gmc4cw said:
you must have missed this. welding a carrier is not keeping it simple. it is ruining a part that has value.
Click to expand...

I don't agree with your logic. Not like a stock open D60 carrier is that valuable. If you paid the cash for a spool and decided you didn't like it, the money you would loose reselling it is probably the same or more than if you welded the diff and then threw it away versus selling it.

Anyway, I've ran a Lock-right in my front D60 with 38's for several years now with no problems. It's survived a broken necked-down inner shaft, 2 broken 30-spline stubs, and 1 twisted 30-spline stub. I do know two guys who broke a Lock-right but both were big-block powered fullsize trucks with 42" tires.
 
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