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Long travel front end guys: What front DS?

zcarczar

zcarczar

1/2 ton status
Joined
Feb 10, 2002
Posts
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Location
Apple Valley California
Well I finally managed to break my clearanced stock front driveshaft. Im curious as to what everyone else is running. As some of you know im running the 52's up front, and will probably be switching to 56's in the near future. So here are my requirements: Bolt to stock saginaw flang, long slip shaft, 1310 u-joint at the axle end, and not cost an arm and a leg.

4351tdsshaft.jpg
 
Pony up and let Jesse at High Angle build you a 1350 12" slip front shaft and be done with it. Just swapped out the t-case flange and front diff yoke and bolted it up tonight, very very nice :D
 
Yeah but thats still using the stock CV which is the problem, Ive broken two of them now and I need something different, I also need to be able to drive in 4-hi when i go snowboarding.
 
No, they used a different cv section, had to machine my transfer case flange down to fit the different cv. Compared to the Saginaw cv the new one has at least 15 to 20* more flex. Not sure on the measurements but compared side by side the 1350 cv was alot more. Also drove 50 mph with the hubs locked on the street and zero vibrations.
 
The CV in the pictures appears to be a saginaw style, which is going to offer more angle than probably any other 1/2 ton CV.

Call jesse and have a 1 ton CV made. There's no other options in my opinion.
 
I ordered a tom woods shaft yesterday. I dont need a 1 ton shaft up front, ive never broken u joints up front, just broken the centering ball from too much angularity. Plus I doubt the 1350 CV will clear my trans pan.
 
79chevyk10 said:
Pony up and let Jesse at High Angle build you a 1350 12" slip front shaft and be done with it. Just swapped out the t-case flange and front diff yoke and bolted it up tonight, very very nice :D
Click to expand...

I broke my HAD, long travel, 1350 cv on my first trip out. It didn't have enough angle to handle my droop(52" fronts). I even have a 1410 on the axle end. I since upgraded to 1410 cv but I still have to get more angle on the pinion side so I don't screw up that end of the shaft again too.

With my Atlas clocked at 11* from flat, the 1410 cv clears my th400.
 
I just ordered a Tom Wood's BAMF 42deg CV with 20" slip and offset "Super-Flex" gold series u-joint. I have 6 inches of lift on 52's & fully clocked 208.

"Without costing an arm & a leg" That's the tricky part:D Mine cost every bodily appendage I have!
 
I use a TW 1350 CV that we got after with a die grinder and got about 36 degrees out of. My advice to you is keep the ride height low, do not rotate the T-case and hopefully that will keep your angles in the reasonable range for a shaft that can still run at high speeds. For going fast in the dirt you're probably going to want 4wd so you need the high speed capability.
 
DougK20 said:
I just ordered a Tom Wood's BAMF 42deg CV with 20" slip and offset "Super-Flex" gold series u-joint. I have 6 inches of lift on 52's & fully clocked 208.

"Without costing an arm & a leg" That's the tricky part:D Mine cost every bodily appendage I have!
Click to expand...

Yep, to repeat what mudblazin said, those super flex joints will vibrate. I am sure you were informed of that when you purchased it. I have a 42* CV with a 1410 u-joint on the axle side. I am considering swaping to a 1350 on the axle end so I can run the super flex joint. I also have 52" springs and I bottom out the 1410 driveshaft yoke on the axle yoke before full droop. This in turn broke my cv. I ripped it in half :eek: .My problems come from a flat clock on my Atlas t-case and a 32" long front driveshaft. I have invested a ton of money in my set-up so I will continue to work towards a solution to get it all to work. As of now, I have as much invested in my front driveshaft as I do in my set of 40" tires:screwy:

My next option will be a high pinion Rock Crusher center section for the D60. Then a Klune V in front of the Atlas. I think the 1350 superflex option will be a cheap temporary solution for the time being.
 
you can also cut the axle tubes out and rotate the diff to point straight at the Tcase like it should be. get a little less angularity on the shaft and a better joint angle. not quick and easy, but cheap if u do it yourself. best thing about the 10b IMO.
 
Nonesuch said:
That would be great if I were running a 10b. D60's have the cast in spring plate mount :(
Click to expand...

that comment was for zcarczar, the one who started this thread. if u got a 60, then your SOL. probly the only bad thing about going to a 60.
 
I think my clearanced tom woods shaft is going to work. It has enough clearance to still rotate smoothly at full droop with the limit straps stretched out so I think I will be ok. I will see in a few weeks out at the hammers. It looks like its gonna be fun getting my rear shaft to work now, 20" of wheel travel on a blazer, luckily I have a SYE kit on the way and im pushing the rear axle back a few inches so I think I should be ok.
 
20"? is that what your shooting for with the 63's? are you gonna just slipshaft the stock driveshaft or go with a new one? CV?
 
I found when I had my Alcan springs on my old K5 and could max out 18" travel shocks mounted at 10* that I had way too much travel. Being a ramp queen didnt make my truck wheel any better. With limit straps and bump stops in the proper locations, my truck not only wheeled better than before, i.e. I could run harder trails with ease, but I also broke less parts which made for more of a fun day. Some time fine tuning your suspension might go a long ways in stopping all of these problems everyone seems to be having.

All that being said, I ran a non CV shaft with 1350 joints at both ends with 21" of spline on my old rig. I needed only about 10" of that travel, but I had the 21" piece and it made it convienent to work around my deep dranny pan using that much spline.
 
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