CK5
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looking for a drivetrain mechanic near Long Beach…
- Thread starter CamCal
- Start date
I would kind of like a shop to tell me they don't want to take more of my money than necessary. Usually, a shop is all too eager to do what you tell them is wrong, then fix what is actually wrong when you bring it back with the same problem. It would seem, however, that if your rear end is good, and your T-case is good, the only thing left would be your driveshaft. If you've got the ouput on the trans moving, and the T-case is good, then the only link between there and the known good rear end is the driveshaft. Unless maybe you've snapped both axles. I'll second Roberts Custom Trucks, but he's not quick. He's more of a custom build type of guy, but he does know his stuff.
i’ll see what happens once i get the Tcase back in. it’s a bummer, rear differential looked fine to me, the shop confirmed it and said Tcase was the issue, some people on the thread have described similar 208 issues so…one step at a time guess?
The thing is...the T-case has a main shaft that passes all the way through from the front planetary to the rear output. It's the front output that disconnects, so a lack of rear drive is in the rear end, driveshaft or maybe stripped splines for the yoke.
You can easily diagnose this through observation if you have a helper.
You can easily diagnose this through observation if you have a helper.
yes im aware of that. the Tcase was already out so i figured may as well pull it apart and look. while it was out i put a breaker bar on the rear diff yoke to see if it would slip, it was tight and moved the truck with my 210lb ass jumping on it so…
i hate unfinished threads so let me close it up and hopefully help the next guy or gal with a 208 problem:
per the previous comments on similar 208 2/4 issues, yep.
per the crowd that kept telling me my rear diff, etc. was the issue, nope (i already knew that).
so the fix:
took the Tcase apart, no visible wear that threw a red flag.
it did seem low on fluid.
planetary gear bushing was loose as hell, took to Boston trans in Pico Rivera as recommended. they said that wasn’t the problem, i had them replace it anyway because why put it back together with play?
new fluids in tcase/trans/diff.
suddenly i have 2h back, shifts perfectly through the range.
moral of the story?
go with your gut.
i hope this helps someone else!
per the previous comments on similar 208 2/4 issues, yep.
per the crowd that kept telling me my rear diff, etc. was the issue, nope (i already knew that).
so the fix:
took the Tcase apart, no visible wear that threw a red flag.
it did seem low on fluid.
planetary gear bushing was loose as hell, took to Boston trans in Pico Rivera as recommended. they said that wasn’t the problem, i had them replace it anyway because why put it back together with play?
new fluids in tcase/trans/diff.
suddenly i have 2h back, shifts perfectly through the range.
moral of the story?
go with your gut.
i hope this helps someone else!
Have any photos of the bushing? It’s been a while since I had a 208 apart, but I also have a hard time thinking of where all this slipping could happen when the main shaft passes directly out of the planetary assembly to the rear driveshaft?
I’ve had a couple 241s apart recently and they are really similar
I’ve had a couple 241s apart recently and they are really similar
no unfortunately i tossed it out. there wear on it was way beyond usable and the seam was separated. from my understanding they are supposed to be tight as **** and bed in over time.
my guess is that given the play, and a full throttle it slipped the lock plate (because there was visible wear) and never re-engaged allowing it to ride neutral? **** i dont know. im not a drivetrain guy, this is my first…i would like to believe being in 4wd gave it enough pressure to engage and move.
obviously next step is ti lower the gearing because now that everything is tight its waaaaaay. too high. this is a project truck so im finding out as i go
One of these parts?
i have the Gm schematic so numbers are different but worn parts were as follows:
1. annulus gear bushing (steel/brass) we call it a Du Bearing in the cycle world
2. low range lock plate
3. synchronizer shift struts
once replaced, i could not turn or shift without by hand without a lot of force…major difference bench testing , i gotta imagine the amount of play was the cause of 2wd going out.
1. annulus gear bushing (steel/brass) we call it a Du Bearing in the cycle world
2. low range lock plate
3. synchronizer shift struts
once replaced, i could not turn or shift without by hand without a lot of force…major difference bench testing , i gotta imagine the amount of play was the cause of 2wd going out.
Huh. In any of the 241s I’ve cracked… I don’t remember any amount of noticeable play in those components… (I know this is apples/oranges and the 241 has the oil pump)
When I put the SYE on the 241 years ago, I was worried about chain wear, but the local drivetrain guys showed me a new chain -wasn’t much different than what I already had -Gave me some perspective.
When I first read your thread here, I was worried we would find out this is a 700r4/4l60 transmission issue… (I have general distrust issues with those things!)
But interesting read, and thanks for the recap on the transfer case!
But interesting read, and thanks for the recap on the transfer case!
when it was removed it had a ton of rattling, i was expecting to have a bunch of metal fall out…nothing beyond what was in the magnet. the shift forks had some gouging, but bushings were in good shape, so maybe from the previous ohaul.
bottom line is play is never good for any component
