Looking for a good thread on Cross Over Steering including parts to replace

[cesandvik]

Hi all,
I'm looking for a very thorough thread on a Cross Over Steering build/install. Specifically, as I work through the process, what other basic parts should I replace or consider such as seals, bearings, etc... that a rookie installer should consider/plan to have on hand.

Installing on 10 bolt corp GM diff on an 89 K5. ORD cross over kit. I'm upgrading both knuckles to go nut down and adding new tie rod and ends and got the install kits for the knuckles.

Thanks for guidance.

 

[dremu]

There's a tech article on doing it, albeit on a D60... https://ck5.com/forums/resources/ord-cross-over-steering-kit.61/

Some other thoughts that come to mind:

When you say "install kits", did that include ball joints? While in there, I'd replace them even if they're not wobbly. You'll need the magic ball joint tool, OTC #7080 or equivalent (http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7080-Joint-Spanner-Wrench/dp/B0002SRDEG or your local NAPA, for instance.) Moog is generally a good brand for ball joints. "Random Name Lifetime Warranty Parts" is not. Warranty doesn't mean squat when you gotta tear down half the axle to get at 'em. My experience with wheel bearings is to inspect and re-grease, reuse them if they're not obviously scored.

Also read up on the procedure to tighten the spindle nuts (which can vary by book or thread, but in general is to tighten the first nut until the wheel drags, then back off a smidge, install the lock washer and then tighten the second nut.) The idea is to give the bearings a bit of play so they don't cook, but not so much play that the wheel wobbles.

Specific to the D44/10b knuckle is the removal of the factory steering arm. Depending on the rust condition of yours (you're prolly in luck, given your truck's age and your location), you may need to soak the three studs in PB Blaster or the like overnight and then whack the arm with a mini sledge. It's a bear, but eventually you'll find just the right place on the bottom pretty close to the knuckle and TINK it'll pop free and you're off to the races. Does help if you can extract the studs first (I'm assuming you're replacing those so the old ones can go.)

If you get a case of Might-As-Well-Itits, you can also do the axle shaft U-joints while you're in there.

It's also a good time to have your rotors turned and/or replace wheel studs if either is nasty ..shrug..

-- A

 

[cesandvik]

There's a tech article on doing it, albeit on a D60... https://ck5.com/forums/resources/ord-cross-over-steering-kit.61/

Some other thoughts that come to mind:

When you say "install kits", did that include ball joints? While in there, I'd replace them even if they're not wobbly. You'll need the magic ball joint tool, OTC #7080 or equivalent (http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7080-Joint-Spanner-Wrench/dp/B0002SRDEG or your local NAPA, for instance.) Moog is generally a good brand for ball joints. "Random Name Lifetime Warranty Parts" is not. Warranty doesn't mean squat when you gotta tear down half the axle to get at 'em. My experience with wheel bearings is to inspect and re-grease, reuse them if they're not obviously scored.

Also read up on the procedure to tighten the spindle nuts (which can vary by book or thread, but in general is to tighten the first nut until the wheel drags, then back off a smidge, install the lock washer and then tighten the second nut.) The idea is to give the bearings a bit of play so they don't cook, but not so much play that the wheel wobbles.

Specific to the D44/10b knuckle is the removal of the factory steering arm. Depending on the rust condition of yours (you're prolly in luck, given your truck's age and your location), you may need to soak the three studs in PB Blaster or the like overnight and then whack the arm with a mini sledge. It's a bear, but eventually you'll find just the right place on the bottom pretty close to the knuckle and TINK it'll pop free and you're off to the races. Does help if you can extract the studs first (I'm assuming you're replacing those so the old ones can go.)

If you get a case of Might-As-Well-Itits, you can also do the axle shaft U-joints while you're in there.

It's also a good time to have your rotors turned and/or replace wheel studs if either is nasty ..shrug..

-- A

Thanks for the insight and response! I wasn't sure if the ball joints would be coming with the kit and/or what other studs are coming with the knuckle "install kit." I've reached out to ORD for the breakdown. Thanks for the other insight. I hadn't thought about the axle u joints, duh... but that's a good one to do while everything is apart.
note: I'm originally from Alameda, so from your neck of the woods. been in so cal for 30 years now though. boy, I'm getting old.

 

[brut4s]

Where in Alameda? I lived there for a long time

 

[cesandvik]

Where in Alameda? I lived there for a long time

Hey, I lived over by Otis School/Krusi Park on Fountian St. Graduated "86

 

[MEANSTREAK K30]

What knuckles? Did you spring for the expensive Deadenbear, or did you just get a flat top D44 passenger side and keep your stock 10B driver side knuckle?

 

[Magikal]

When you locate a 2wd gear box be sure it is NOT from a van as the steering is backwards. Go ahead, ask me how I found out this bit of info.....I learned the hard way.