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Looking for a Painter

Frankie, Rustoleum is lawn chair paint. It doesn't even require a hardener for christ sakes. You could have bought a decent but cheap Nason single stage $100-150 and had something that will last a while. Rustoleum will not last long at all, if it's parked outside in the direct sun and heat, you'll be able to start seeing it loosing sheen by year 2.
 
Frankie, Rustoleum is lawn chair paint. It doesn't even require a hardener for christ sakes. You could have bought a decent but cheap Nason single stage $100-150 and had something that will last a while. Rustoleum will not last long at all, if it's parked outside in the direct sun and heat, you'll be able to start seeing it loosing sheen by year 2.
Dude, you seem hell bent in trying to be combative. I realize the damn paint won't keep it's "sheen " very long . I have heard it lasting longer than two freekin years, seen it last five with periodic buffing. There are plenty of people on this sight that have used it. I said real car paint is better , don't know why you decided to add this, If you know so much , why did you have to have someone else paint your truck . LOOK, I am just trying to help out and if you don't like my views , do me a favor and don't comment and try to discredit me,cause you are really making yourself look like an ass. You have offended me by using the Lords name in vein , and that is uncalled for.I know I am a newb here , but have heard that Colorado k5 is supposed to be laid back , and I don't think that you responding like you are reflects this.
 
Relax, seriously.

You are trying to convince someone that wants a professional paint job, to paint it himself in his garage with cheap paint. He said he didn't want to do that.

Dude, you seem hell bent in trying to be combative. I realize the damn paint won't keep it's "sheen " very long . I have heard it lasting longer than two freekin years, seen it last five with periodic buffing. There are plenty of people on this sight that have used it. I said real car paint is better , don't know why you decided to add this, If you know so much , why did you have to have someone else paint your truck . LOOK, I am just trying to help out and if you don't like my views , do me a favor and don't comment and try to discredit me,cause you are really making yourself look like an ass. You have offended me by using the Lords name in vein , and that is uncalled for.I know I am a newb here , but have heard that Colorado k5 is supposed to be laid back , and I don't think that you responding like you are reflects this.

I had someone else paint my K5 because I don't own a $50K paint booth, a $500 gun, and years experience spraying automotive high quality jobs. That is the result I wanted, no exception. If you read through my build thread you will find that I did paint my K5. The results were good, but no pro quality. Again, I wanted pro quality and there was no exception. I wasted my time and money painting it myself the first time.

I've sprayed tons of Rustoleum, probably more than anyone else here. I used to paint 48ft trailers with it all the time, gallon after gallon.... Once I started seeing trailers completely go flat after a year in the sun, I quit using it. I now use Sherman Williams high solids urethane industrial coatings. Covers better than rustoleum, takes an actual hardener, better MEK thinner, and I am seeing decent sheen retainment for nearly 5 years.

I am not trying to pick a fight with you, it's simply that what you are recommending, is not what the PO wants, and anyone that paints a lot, knows that rustoleum is really just rattle can paint in bulk form. I'm not trying to piss you off, I'm sure your paint project looks fine. Rustoeum is, what Rustoleum is.
 
Justin, after you have replaced all of your sheetmetal , and everything like you have , I am sure you don't want to use a synthetic enamel paint like rustoleum. BUT, if you actually are going to use your truck and scratch it all up on trails and what not , it might actually make more sense -you will be able to touch up scratches and blend them into the paint easier and cheaper than using a base coat clear coat urethane.I am not saying that Rustoleum is better than real car paint in any way other than cost , and easy touch ups . My $900.00 wonder c-10 is a case in point where it actually made more sense to use Rustoleum. After I made sure the body work was lazer straight , two coats of industrial primer gray was laid down . after extensive wet sanding I used a flat black guide coat and block sanded until all high and low spots were eliminated . Then one more coat of primer ,sanded again with 600 grit to knock down any orange peel.Three coats of gloss sunrise red were laid down ,one coat per day letting it cure good before again using 600grit between coats. After the final coat I let it cure in the sun for two days before the wet sanding started . on up to 1500-2000 grit using foam sanding blocks . Iguess Iwas lucky because no runs and only minor orange peel , the only thing I had to contend with was little bugs here and there, and they were easily wet sanded out . I used meguires m105/ m205 using w-5000 wool pads on a variable speed dewalt buffer/ polisher. All this was a lot of work and working by myself took well over a week to complete. I myself had no choice but to use cheap products because I don't have the money, and could not justify ruining a high dollar paint job on the gravel roads I travel, so this made sense to me. Like I said earlier , I get compliments all the time , the paint has all the shine of any single stage urethane paint job I have ever seen , and cost me $250.00. So , the statement made by guitar is in my opinion just not true . This paint job looks every bit as good as a factory paint job. I only now wish I had mixed the paint with a darker red to match the original shade apple red . I have three older brothers that have experience in painting also, and I have learned from them , but hands on experience is key. Get a junk trunklid or hood and practice on that . There is nothing like the feeling of accomplishment you get after completing a paintjob and marveling at your handy work.My brothers also thought I was nuts for using Rustoleum, but they now agree that I made the right decision as per use of the truck . One of these days I will save up the coin and give this old truck a proper paint job , but for now I am totally satisfied with this.If you guys don't believe me ,give it a try yourself with a spray can of sun rise red and spray a small piece of metal and wetsand and polish it out- you won't believe how good it looks .Ican't post picks right now , but I promise you guys will see my 84 c-10, and my trazer .



I didn't read this whole thing... coughparagraphscough


but blending /fixing rusto being easier than base/clear is not remotely true.... why do you think all collision work is done in base/clear? it's VASTLY easier to blend a panel with base/clear than ANY single stage ever was, or will ever be.....
 
Frankie, post up some pics of your restoleum paint job on your truck. I am actually very curious.

Here's the results when I painted my K5. Nason 2 stage.
005_zpsj1nekz4e.jpg

004_zps4pwyzw2n.jpg

Here's when I brought it home from the body shop.
full

full
 
I didn't read this whole thing... coughparagraphscough


but blending /fixing rusto being easier than base/clear is not remotely true.... why do you think all collision work is done in base/clear? it's VASTLY easier to blend a panel with base/clear than ANY single stage ever was, or will ever be.....
And boy do they have that figured out well these days. The same shop that did my K5, did some collision repair last year on my '06 Mega cab 3500 and I couldn't believe how well they got the panels blended together. Their fresh paint looked exactly like the other panels that had 9 year old paint on them.
 
you'd never know I painted what on your car... :deal:

real painters actually learn the different spraying techniques needed to achieve various manny finishes, Ford orangepeel vs BMW, etc, etc... obviously a bit of scuff and buff can help you achieve it, but it definitely helps to start out close out of the booth...

2000+ paint jobs unfortunately learn'd me a couple things... :doah: :haha:
 
I didn't read this whole thing... coughparagraphscough


but blending /fixing rusto being easier than base/clear is not remotely true.... why do you think all collision work is done in base/clear? it's VASTLY easier to blend a panel with base/clear than ANY single stage ever was, or will ever be.....
Well , now that my blood pressure is back down......I'm sorry about lack of paragraphs, the way this computer is working,I am lucky to even get to type.My friend with an IH tractor touches up his scratches easy enough , with a brush ! After it cures , and is wet sanded and polished you could not even see it was there. I know that Rusto is not as good as base coat clear urethane , but it isn't nearly as expensive ,either. Again that is why I used it on my c-heap 10 . I think that rustoleum is almost as durable than any acrylic out there, just not as expensive, that's all.
I didn't read this whole thing... coughparagraphscough


but blending /fixing rusto being easier than base/clear is not remotely true.... why do you think all collision work is done in base/clear? it's VASTLY easier to blend a panel with base/clear than ANY single stage ever was, or will ever be.....
 
Relax, seriously.

You are trying to convince someone that wants a professional paint job, to paint it himself in his garage with cheap paint. He said he didn't want to do that.



I had someone else paint my K5 because I don't own a $50K paint booth, a $500 gun, and years experience spraying automotive high quality jobs. That is the result I wanted, no exception. If you read through my build thread you will find that I did paint my K5. The results were good, but no pro quality. Again, I wanted pro quality and there was no exception. I wasted my time and money painting it myself the first time.

I've sprayed tons of Rustoleum, probably more than anyone else here. I used to paint 48ft trailers with it all the time, gallon after gallon.... Once I started seeing trailers completely go flat after a year in the sun, I quit using it. I now use Sherman Williams high solids urethane industrial coatings. Covers better than rustoleum, takes an actual hardener, better MEK thinner, and I am seeing decent sheen retainment for nearly 5 years.

I am not trying to pick a fight with you, it's simply that what you are recommending, is not what the PO wants, and anyone that paints a lot, knows that rustoleum is really just rattle can paint in bulk form. I'm not trying to piss you off, I'm sure your paint project looks fine. Rustoeum is, what Rustoleum is.
I told him that he probably wouldn't want to do that. Simply told him what I did and why I did it , and that it was cheap . Just added how I applied it .
 
Frankie, post up some pics of your restoleum paint job on your truck. I am actually very curious.

Here's the results when I painted my K5. Nason 2 stage.
005_zpsj1nekz4e.jpg

004_zps4pwyzw2n.jpg

Here's when I brought it home from the body shop.
full

full
I also said in a previous post that I can't post pics right now. I will post as soon as I can.Some of us aren't as fortunate as others.That is why I am probably using Rustoleum!
 
Frankie, Rustoleum is lawn chair paint. It doesn't even require a hardener for christ sakes. You could have bought a decent but cheap Nason single stage $100-150 and had something that will last a while. Rustoleum will not last long at all, if it's parked outside in the direct sun and heat, you'll be able to start seeing it loosing sheen by year 2.
Oh, and I used Valspar hardener.
 
Thanks for the vote of Confidence 4XFrankie. There are a bunch of reasons I don't want to take this on myself, Time as well as unfortunately not being set-up well enough to paint at my house. There are some things I am good at, and being an artist (like a painter) is not one of them. I want this to turn out good. It is so nice up to this point, I don't want to bring it down a notch by doing a crummy paint job. I am hoping for a nice driver quality paint job. Something equivalent to a factory paint job but not show quality. I am not the guy who would ever go to Maaco. It's going to be sweet when it's done and I am going to be selling my nice American Racing rims and 33 inch tires to get a different set-up. Truck is currently on a new 4 inch spring lift.
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I got a great paint job from Maaco in Nov for $600.00 It included primer,urethane paint and sealer. I did the prep work and they painted everything but the top They do alot more that just $200.00 paint jobs It might be worth a phone call

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iphone111-15 151.JPG
 
the big thing with Maaco is who's squirtin in the booth... some guys are good, some suck....
 
You're right, it probably does depend on who is laying the paint at Maaco. Awhile back I used them just to lay primer for me on a job. I got everything ready to go and explained in detail what I was looking to have primed. That message either didn't get from the front to the back or the guy in the back just didn't care. It was a disaster. They created so much extra work for me I swore I would never go back.
 

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