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Looking for Dynamat Equivalent product...

Metal Twister

Metal Twister

1/2 ton status
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Jan 8, 2010
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Im looking for a Dynamat equivalent Product that wont break the bank. Im looking for something I can use it as a sound and heat barrier on the floor of the rig. Ive seen other Asphalt filled aluminum rolls that are self sticking somewhere but cant seem to put my finger on it. Dynamat is awsome stuff but a bit to pricy for me. Any suggestions?:dunno:
 
Ice & water shield for roofing. Don't remember the name. Its sold at Home Cheapo or Slowe's. Sold in huge rolls.
 
All of the roofing stuff will come loose if exposed to extreme heat/sun. I've used it a lot around the house. It's meant to seal water out and not be a heat/sound barrier.

I'd recommend some of the lizardskin type paintable stuff, although I haven't tried it personally.
 
To do a project like that right it is going to take a toll on your time and also your body. The time it took to tear apart my rig, apply the product, and then put it back together got a bit overwhelming at times. Some say the me too products are just as good but all my research pointed me back to Dynamat. For me there was value in the peel and stick application process too vs something you spray or roll on. I don't think enough attention can be brought to the fact that the bulk of this job is in the time it takes to do...not the cost of materials.

How much is too much? Dynamat Extreme is $135 a bulk pack with free shipping on Amazon. It takes 2 bulk packs to do the entire floor and wheel wells. I got another 2 packs to do the doors, ceiling, and dash too for a total of $540. I only used a 1/2 sheet out of the 4th pack too so a professional could get by with less. The results are completely worth it!! :waytogo: I also have the peace of mind knowing that I wont have to redo it in the event a substandard product were to fail.
 
Your points are valid and well taken. I am sure that Everyone is in a slightly different situation. For example My rig is a low buck project and that is what is important to me. It is internally stripped of everything except one seat. Its like driving inside a tin can across a driving range and being pelted with golf balls. LOL Keeping it on the cheap is a priority. My rig will be 85% off road and totally trashed within the coarse of two years. I cant see paying $500.00 for sound proofing which is more than I paid for the Engine/Trans/Tcase combined. Like I stated early on I am looking for a less expensive alternative. It may be that I end up throwing something completely different in there, but if there is something available that is close to Dynamat and not cost prohibitive I will be a happy camper.:thumb: :waytogo:
 
I've used the "Peel and Seal" from Lowe's and while it may not be quite as good as Dynomat, it is a fraction of the cost and does make a difference...
I live in Texas and it gets quite hot here; especially this summer. I've not had a problem with it coming loose or the asphalt smell that some people say it will have.
I've been happy with it considering the cost compared to Dynomat.
 
lak2004 said:
just buy the dynamat, it lasts forever and works the best IMO
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You like the Dynamat because it works the best? Which others have you used and for what application have you used them. Did you personally compare them in real life applications? Looking for as much first hand info. that I can find. Thanks :waytogo:
 
Dynamat and other products like it do not work that well when used on the inside of the truck to block heat. Once heat hits the metal floor sheetmetal, it spreads pretty easily through the rest of the metal portions of th chassis. It helps a tiny bit, but if your goal is blocking heat, using something on the underside of the truck works much better. I did some informal testing of different ideas in my build thread over in the firstgen forum.

Dynamat works pretty well for sound reduction, but not for heat reduction. If you are building a budget rig, I'm not sure why you'd care about sound, but heat reduction makes sense. If i cared about my budget, I'd focus my efforts on shielding the heat sources so it doesn't have a chance to heat the stuff you dont want it to.
 
bp71k5 said:
Dynamat and other products like it do not work that well when used on the inside of the truck to block heat. Once heat hits the metal floor sheetmetal, it spreads pretty easily through the rest of the metal portions of th chassis. It helps a tiny bit, but if your goal is blocking heat, using something on the underside of the truck works much better. I did some informal testing of different ideas in my build thread over in the firstgen forum.

Dynamat works pretty well for sound reduction, but not for heat reduction. If you are building a budget rig, I'm not sure why you'd care about sound, but heat reduction makes sense. If i cared about my budget, I'd focus my efforts on shielding the heat sources so it doesn't have a chance to heat the stuff you dont want it to.
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Makes perfect sense... Heat is the primary issue and maybe wrapping the exhaust or a heatshield might help. Any sound deadening would be a plus.
 
I use dynamat at work (installer) all the time, like Brian said sound reduction is amazing, heat not so much. It does help with heat but unless you are going to be using some sort of heat shield on the exhaust its probably not going to do as much as you would like. Look into the lizardskin or spray on dynamat or some other spray on heat shield
 
if its wheeler, then why not just roll some hurc in there? $89 a gallon. i put a whole gallon in the front of my k5, and it made a huge difference. quieted the swamper and exhaust noise pretty well. i havent done the rear yet, but i did pressure wash it after my last outing. made it easy. just a thought
 
1BEATK5 said:
if its wheeler, then why not just roll some hurc in there? $89 a gallon. i put a whole gallon in the front of my k5, and it made a huge difference. quieted the swamper and exhaust noise pretty well. i havent done the rear yet, but i did pressure wash it after my last outing. made it easy. just a thought
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Good thought as well... I have some more hacking to do on the body and doing some mods inside. After that is finished Hercaliner might be a good choice. Thanks for the reply.
 
djtejas said:
I've used the "Peel and Seal" from Lowe's and while it may not be quite as good as Dynomat, it is a fraction of the cost and does make a difference...
I live in Texas and it gets quite hot here; especially this summer. I've not had a problem with it coming loose or the asphalt smell that some people say it will have.
I've been happy with it considering the cost compared to Dynomat.
Click to expand...

I agree, back in the day I have used thick tar paper and liquid nails painted on the tar paper lightly then stuck it to the body panels. Never did the floors with this but for body panels it worked amazingly well!! Now that peel and Seel is out I would imagine it works just as well.

The only draw back to any of these products is that if you get into an accident fixing any damage becomes that much harder. Repair shops will hit you with an extra bill to remove that stuff. But since this is a 20+ year old truck I doubt many of us are going to professional body shops LOL!
 
1BEATK5 said:
if its wheeler, then why not just roll some hurc in there? $89 a gallon. i put a whole gallon in the front of my k5, and it made a huge difference. quieted the swamper and exhaust noise pretty well. i havent done the rear yet, but i did pressure wash it after my last outing. made it easy. just a thought
Click to expand...


How many coats did it end up being??? And how thick???
 
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