CK5
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Looking for Dynamat Equivalent product...

How many coats did it end up being??? And how thick???


it was pretty hot out when i did it. so it was drying pretty quick. by the time i was done with both sides, the first side was pretty tacky. so i just rolled some more on it. used about 1/3 of the gallon. then i waited until it was pretty dry as per the destructions, then i just poored the rest of the gallon on and around the trans tunnel, then used the roller to move it around the rest of the floor.
i dont think its more than 3/16 thick, but maybe in some spots it is. i wanted it pretty thick so the weld marks where hidden better without a ton of grinding.
 
X2 on the Hurculiner for some sound deadening. I have it on the floor of my pickup. Doesn't do much for heat tho.
 
Your points are valid and well taken. I am sure that Everyone is in a slightly different situation. For example My rig is a low buck project and that is what is important to me. It is internally stripped of everything except one seat. Its like driving inside a tin can across a driving range and being pelted with golf balls. LOL Keeping it on the cheap is a priority. My rig will be 85% off road and totally trashed within the coarse of two years. I cant see paying $500.00 for sound proofing which is more than I paid for the Engine/Trans/Tcase combined. Like I stated early on I am looking for a less expensive alternative. It may be that I end up throwing something completely different in there, but if there is something available that is close to Dynamat and not cost prohibitive I will be a happy camper.:thumb: :waytogo:

have you thought of just rhino lining it?
 
how strong is the dynomat or fatmat stuff?
Here's the scenario:
trail truck, sees water, sand, mud, all that good stuff, but also highway driving and good tones.
It has dynomatish stuff on the floors, with LMC rubber flooring on top of it. The edges are sealed using sealing tape under the rubber.
How does it stand up?
Maybe why I'm thinking LineX and rubber flooring.
 
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