Looking to Build a 1991 1500 4x4 TBI Suburban

[belezeebub]

Okay I Loved my 1989 ¾ Ton 4x4Suburban but sold it a decade ago when I had to drive 100 miles a day (got it used I put 90K miles on it replaced a flex plate front hubs the alt and ac compressor and had LS do a horrid louset brake job that I should have done myself but I didn't have time to do ended up taking it back to them six times till corp office sent me an letter asking me to no longer be their customer re-did the brakes myself and it was fine haven't been in a LS shop since then)

Now I have a family and I am looking to get one to haul the kids and the dog on vacations, this will not be a daily driver this will be trips and haul the boat (10000 to 12000 Miles a year max) I figure from what I remember went out on mine and the age I will be putting money into it (see below)

It may not get used everyday but I want rock soild ready to go anytime we toss a cooler and the kids in it, we might be going to Mt Rainner or to Montana but I don't want to have any concerns about this hauling my family from point A to point B

Here are my questions

I am looking to spend no more than 6k TOTAL! hard limit, carved in stone, no wiggle room wife put her foot down.

I am looking to spend 1500 ish for a 1991 ½ Ton 4x4 Tail Gate (unless there is a barn door model were the rear windows open Dog has to hang her head out of something)


1000 to 1500 to rebuild the engine
500 to 750 to rebuild the tranny
500 Paint
250 Brakes (Doing them myself Never letting LS touch the brakes on my truck again )
250 New Hubs
200 two new Batteries
100 New Alt
500 water Pump, adjust/Rebuild TBI
500 Seat covers / carpet
200 Change all fluids
300 Boil out / rod out radiator
Add Tranny and Oil cooler if not installed.



Total $5550.00

After all of these work it should be good as new and ready to take us anywhere we want to go.


Did I miss anything I would like the model with front and Rear AC but it was a nightmare on mine I think I put in 3 compressors (could have been cheap napa comprossors too) would like the 700R4 and If I remeber correctly the 1991 has front and rear disk brakes.

 

[Pookster]

If you want tail gate, you pretty much have to get 1500.

Unless you are confident in your building abilities, a crate motor might be a better choice- though I've heard of a lot of people having bad luck with those too (rebuilt, not OEM crate).

I've never liked rebuilt trannies. But thats up to you. In 92, you'd not find a 700r4, you'll find a 4L60e, which is actually better. They tend not to fail as commonly as 700r4's as it is electronically controlled, but it still happens.

Trans coolers is a must, and should be *replaced* along with the transmission, if you do end up replacing it.

I'd budget 500 or so for tires at least. Maybe 600 in case you have a bent rim or something.

I'd also add tie rod ends, ball joints (possibly) and u-joints. Just inspect them.

One of the things most important to check- is the u-joints. If they fail.. bad juju. A friend cracked his transmission housing from the vibrations.

Also a starter. Its hard to tell how old a starter is externally,

you might need a new exhaust.

Front and rear ac's tend to develop leaks easier- twice the length, twice the tubes. repairng them is a major pain in the!@!, but its that.. or no ac for the rear passengers.

 

[longbedder]

I'm certain you could find a Burb that's pretty well good to go for way less than $6k. Just rebuilding the motor/trans unless they're demonstrably bad seems pretty excessive, and there's no guarantee that just because they're rebuilt that you're not going to have a failure on the road (especially during break-in and early rebuilt life). You can tell alot about the engine through oil pressure and a compression test, and the trans by watching temp/fluid/shifts/etc. You can also tell a helluva lot about drivetrain health by buying a $50 cable and watching the ALDL datastream.

Is there something unique about a '92 that makes you want that year?

FYI: I've got a '94 3/4-ton with rear tailgate.

 

[belezeebub]

To be honest I did a quick search and the 92 was the newest one that has a roll down rear window for the dog you can't drive with the hatch glass up (learned that the hardway with my Jeep) if the side windows or back windows would open I could get a newer one but the big baby sits and whimpers if she doesn't have a window to stick her head out of and that plus two teenagers is the max limit of my tollerance.


I know it seems excessive but 6k to have a nearly good as new makes me feel safer I kind of care about the safety of my family
I would trust a rebuild engine and trans more then I would trust one with 150K where the guy tells me "I changed the oil every 3k like clockwork"

While I know things can go wrong with a rebuilt it seems less likely that it would happen.

I figured 6 K would get me all thde major parts replaced

Personally if I had unlimited funds I would do a ground up restore of a 1972 3/4 ton 4x4.

while I wouldn't do the machine work I can install the engine with out breaking a sweat I replaced the 22r in my Toy in under 3 hours R&I so I have been known to turn a mean wrench when the need calls for it.

 

[496truck]

The new body style started in 92. And those were the IFS trucks. Maybe I'm wrong, but, I thought all of those trucks equipped with tailgates instead of barn doors had the lift up hatch style back glass.

I think you are looking for a square body 87-91 (if you're looking for fuel injection) burb with a tailgate instead of the barn doors. That would get you a roll down back glass.

 

[belezeebub]

The new body style started in 92. And those were the IFS trucks. Maybe I'm wrong, but, I thought all of those trucks equipped with tailgates instead of barn doors had the lift up hatch style back glass.

I think you are looking for a square body 87-91 (if you're looking for fuel injection) burb with a tailgate instead of the barn doors. That would get you a roll down back glass.

I stand corrected the dealer had it listed as a 1992 figured it might have been a split year so I am looking to build a 1991 thank you for the correction

 

[72blazerguy]

Unless you plan on doing all the rebuilding yourself, I don't think you have budgeted enough for the the engine/tranny rebuild.

I would try to find something with a solid motor and go from there. A decently maintained 350 w/ TBI from that era will easily go 200k.

 

[belezeebub]

Unless you plan on doing all the rebuilding yourself, I don't think you have budgeted enough for the the engine/tranny rebuild.

I would try to find something with a solid motor and go from there. A decently maintained 350 w/ TBI from that era will easily go 200k.

Local Shop with a 5/50 for 1500 good local reviews and nothing bad on BBB I was a bit low on the tranny found one with a 3/36 for 1000

I took a guess on the cost. just as a ball park

 

[Pookster]

I'd go with a 91- or at least a 87+. 87 will give you TBI instead of carb. One of the years you will get an upgraded axle splines, IIRC.

And if you go higher than 89? you get galvanized panels which really cut down on the rust. Whichever year moved to the 4 horozontal head light shape.

I had a 83 burb 2wd diesel. It was pretty nice to drive around, but given its age, it had deteriorated pretty badly.

 

[gone huntin]

I'll sell you my '90 GMC Suburban with all of that stuff done already for $6k. It does need a paint job as the clear coat is blistered on the hood and top. ZERO RUST! It's been converted to 3/4 ton, Jasper engine w/warranty remainig, trans rebuilt 20k ago, front and rear air. power everything, but seats.

 

[belezeebub]

Looks nice same color layout as my 89 but I am in Oregon would cost me a grand to take off work plus gas just to get it, just for laughes barn door or tailgate?

I'll sell you my '90 GMC Suburban with all of that stuff done already for $6k. It does need a paint job as the clear coat is blistered on the hood and top. ZERO RUST! It's been converted to 3/4 ton, Jasper engine w/warranty remainig, trans rebuilt 20k ago, front and rear air. power everything, but seats.

 

[belezeebub]

mine was an 89 I heard those panels are what caused the paint to have GM/Chevy leporsity if I could find a newer one with a rear window that would open for the black shedy licky beggy thing I would do so, but all I have seen so far are windows that don't open or rear hatch glass that you can't drive with open. (correct me if I am wrong)

I'd go with a 91- or at least a 87+. 87 will give you TBI instead of carb. One of the years you will get an upgraded axle splines, IIRC.

And if you go higher than 89? you get galvanized panels which really cut down on the rust. Whichever year moved to the 4 horozontal head light shape.

I had a 83 burb 2wd diesel. It was pretty nice to drive around, but given its age, it had deteriorated pretty badly.

 

[gone huntin]

Barn doors. Just so you know, LMC sells sliding side windows for 'burbs.

 

[belezeebub]

Barn doors. Just so you know, LMC sells sliding side windows for 'burbs.

Didn't know that what is LMC? that openes up more options


Smacks forehead LMCtruck (sometimes my brain goes on vacations with out me)

 

[ccarley]

lmctruck.com ; they have a bunch of stuff for our rigs. You can even have them send you a free catalog with '73-'91 Suburban parts only!

Good luck with your search,
Clay

 

[dave w]

I posted the cost of my 1993 GMC K1500 engine build here http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=282646

The purchase price of the pickup was about $1500 (bad motor) a few years ago. I'm sure if I had paid for the work I did myself the total budget would exceed $6K. I really enjoy the performance I built into my 93 K1500.

dave w