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Looking to buy a 69-72 K5

M

mountainibis

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Morrisville, NC
I'm looking to buy a 69-72 K5. Sorry to sound stupid, but what are the weak links I should know about when I'm looking at one? Do the 1st gen's have the same steering box/frame problem as the 2nds? Also, what's the difference between the single wall and double wall top (why is one better than the other)? And finally, would I be giving up anything by going with a 4-speed instead of a 350 auto?

I'm not new to the old 4x4 scene, but my daily driver pick-up needs another bow-tie to keep it company, and got tired of being the rescue vehicle when the POS Scout I used to have broke down. And, I finally have some cash to get what I really wanted in the first place.

If any of y'all could help a country boy out, I'd appreciate it.
 
Rust is gonna be your biggest concirn.
Haven't seen much first gen stering box frame cracks. My 72 has an inner fram plate with factory riviots holding it in so it would seem they were reinforcing the inside of the frame were the box mounts. Then in 73 stoped doing that??
A single wall top will be alot lighter when removing. The way to tell is the single wal top bolts to the bed rail from the top and the double bolts from under the bed rail up into the top. Everyone seames to like the single walls better.
I have a 4spd in my 72 and love it! The manual linkage would be the only real problem, espcially when installing headers. But with a little fab work no more problems...
some were around late71 Front disk brakes were factory standard, prior to that I beleve they were sold as an option.
Happy Hunting /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
One thing that comes to my mind is to check the window frame for rust or rot. Ideally you would want to inspect a full convert with the top off, but that probably won't happen, so make sure you check the window frame closely from the inside. Also check the floor boards and the metal on the interior wall just in front of the doors. My top leaks and the water runs straight down the interior side. If the top leaks or has in the past, rust in these spots may be a good indicator. Anyway, replacing a rotten window frame is a lot of work and can get expensive, so just keep that weak spot in mind.
Good luck!
 
Welcome!

#1: Fill out your profile! That helps everyone know who you are, where you are, etc. More important once you actually OWN a Blazer, because we'll know how to answer your tech questions better, but it's a good way to start off here.

#2: If you dare.....check the "CANCER SUPPORT GROUP" thread at the top of this forum. It has some "graphic" photos of typical 1st Gen rust.....I hate to say it, but ALL 1st Gens have rust....and usually in the same places. Windshield posts, front footwell corners, rocker box as well as the inner and outer rocker panels. All of it can be fixed if you are willing to spend the $$$ or time. Less rust is better.....

#3. Tops - Single wall is generally considered more desirable. There are two dome lights in a single wall top, and none in a double wall.

#4. Automatic VS. Stick - WHAT ARE YOU CRAZY!!??? Them's fighting words around here.....I'm not even going to take the bait on that question! /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
 
I appreciate all the info in the replies. I don't want to make the same mistakes I made before (frame rot and rusted body mounts, to name a few).

I filled out the profile, too - sorry about not getting that sooner.

Hopefully, I will soon have the pink slip to a beautiful piece of Detroit thunder, as well as stories of rescuing lesser vehicles.
 
i'll sell ya mine 72 350 auto, new engine, wheels, all weatherstripping, too much too list. 3500.00 can deliver up to 150 mi /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
all 71-up truck models have disk brakes, the entire truck line, standard equipment not optional

rocker boxes, wheel arches,wheel tubs, radiator supports, fender bottoms, tailgate, winshield frame, doors, last 3" of bed floor just in front of the gate, floors at the kick panel bases, etc.,

these areas are always rusted out in these areas clear through, in other regions it may just be minor surface rust

good luck
 
My take on Auto vs. Stick:

1. Better control with the stick (less slop due to torque converter and the valve body trying to out-guess you).

2. Faster shifting with the auto (the SM465 has BIG gears in it and they take time and finesse to deal with, while the auto can bang-shift its planetary gear sets quickly).

3. Much lower first gear with the stick (6.5:1 vs. 2.6:1).

4. Better gas mileage with the stick if you putt it around, especially on the freeway due to less loss of motion through the torque converter (if you put a loose torque converter in the truck so that you can climb things, it's going to slip!).

5. Changing filters in the auto is easier than changing clutches on a stick.

6. The 4-speed is a much stronger gear box than the TH350 (stock vs. stock).

That said, I took a lot of time to find a relatively clean 4-speed Blazer. Looking back on that, I should have bought an auto with a better body than mine has (although mine has a prety good body with only four rust spots and one dent). That's because I swapped out the doggy-shifting SM465 for a New Venture 4500 with synchros in all six gears (5 forward and one reverse synchro). I came to my Blazer out of sports and GT cars, so I place high emphasis on a strong tranny that also shifts well. I got that with the NV4500.
 
I have one. It maybe a little far for you though. It is a 72 blazer, 350/350, A/C PS, PB, I have a single wall top and I have a home made half top for it. The body is in really good shape. Let me know if interested.
 
Burt,
so the first gens have a factory plate on the stering box, I was just looking at it cause I'm getting a pop from the front and saw it, wasn't sure if it was stock or not. The poping was the cross member, the bolts were loose.
 
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