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Lost and Found - LS3 6L80 NP205 Full Frame Off
- Thread starter mattrains
- Start date
Ya guess your right, truck is junk.....so might as well just give it to me 
Looks like super solid truck
Looks like super solid truck
mattrains
MRAINS
Another great Saturday. This time I was going after a major exhaust leak and I needed to replace my air filter so I got a new chrome air hat and filter.
So here's the new hat. It's just a basic chrome Mr Gasket brand but it sure does dress up the engine bay compared to the old crusty one.
My exhaust leak had gotten pretty bad, to the point it was embarrassing to drive. A quick visual inspection showed someone had put 2 exhaust gaskets on the passenger side and the one on the driver side was original to the motor. I could see where exhaust was escaping on the drivers side with the original exhaust gasket but I figured since someone put two on the passenger side I would go ahead and replace both.
I ordered some nice ARP 12 point bolts from Summit and also went to Lowes and got a nice set of wrenches to help the job along a little easier :-)
The passenger side went pretty well, I found some 3/4" original bolts, 3/4" ARP bolts and some 1" ARP bolts. I even found where one bolt was missing completely?
Once I got the header off the 2 gaskets came out easily but weren't in that good of shape. Also, those wrenches were AWESOME! I used them for almost every bolt.
Here are the two gaskets that were both installed on the passenger side. I thought it may have been because of a warped flange or something but I installed the new gasket and everything was fine?
and here is one of the 1" ARP bolts. Take a look at the threads :-(
The drivers side was actually very easy to take apart. It had the original gasket and all original 3/4" bolts. Once I had the header off I had to break the original gasket into 3 parts to get it out. Getting the header back in place was a little harder due to the mount for the A/C compressor.
Here is a pic of an original bolt... So clean and nice haha
Here's a pic of the gasket I took out and you can see at the top on the second exhaust port where the leak was coming from.
Here it is closer up...
Everything went great and i'm just that much closer to getting it running right. I cannot wait to get this thing torn apart so I can go through everything thoroughly.
-Matt
So here's the new hat. It's just a basic chrome Mr Gasket brand but it sure does dress up the engine bay compared to the old crusty one.
My exhaust leak had gotten pretty bad, to the point it was embarrassing to drive. A quick visual inspection showed someone had put 2 exhaust gaskets on the passenger side and the one on the driver side was original to the motor. I could see where exhaust was escaping on the drivers side with the original exhaust gasket but I figured since someone put two on the passenger side I would go ahead and replace both.
I ordered some nice ARP 12 point bolts from Summit and also went to Lowes and got a nice set of wrenches to help the job along a little easier :-)
The passenger side went pretty well, I found some 3/4" original bolts, 3/4" ARP bolts and some 1" ARP bolts. I even found where one bolt was missing completely?
Once I got the header off the 2 gaskets came out easily but weren't in that good of shape. Also, those wrenches were AWESOME! I used them for almost every bolt.
Here are the two gaskets that were both installed on the passenger side. I thought it may have been because of a warped flange or something but I installed the new gasket and everything was fine?
and here is one of the 1" ARP bolts. Take a look at the threads :-(
The drivers side was actually very easy to take apart. It had the original gasket and all original 3/4" bolts. Once I had the header off I had to break the original gasket into 3 parts to get it out. Getting the header back in place was a little harder due to the mount for the A/C compressor.
Here is a pic of an original bolt... So clean and nice haha
Here's a pic of the gasket I took out and you can see at the top on the second exhaust port where the leak was coming from.
Here it is closer up...
Everything went great and i'm just that much closer to getting it running right. I cannot wait to get this thing torn apart so I can go through everything thoroughly.
-Matt
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It looks a lot better with out those tacky driving lights on the front bumper. Are you going to get a new set of GM 454 stickers for the air cleaner? Those looked pretty good on the old one.
Martin
Martin
bsgreen
1/2 ton status
Nice ride. that's pretty cool that you found it again and bought it back.
that's pretty cool that you found it again and bought it back.
mattrains
MRAINS
Parts have started arriving for the diff rebuild... :-)
What are the 2 hex bolts for on the cover?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Awesome! Looking good so far!
They put some tension (preload) on the carrier bearing caps. Helps to keep everything aligned and where it's supposed to be under load.
mattrains
MRAINS
Hey Guys,
I continued to rip out the carpet in the K5 today and I found some depressing stuff. First thing, there were 2 complete sets of carpet. The new carpet was on top of the old carpet and even worse all of that was on top of the original insulation/padding and the padding was wet which of course caused RUST!
See the pics below but the back half isn't that bad, it has some rust near the tailgate but nothing all the way through. The major rust is where the rear floor pans are or where the back passengers put their feet and also right where the door closes.
Today I took a grinder with a scotch pad and started grinding away. It came out okay but I just wanted to see what needed to be done. I know i'm going to need parts of new floor pans some welding and when it's all done i'll cover it in a Rust Bullet/Por-15 type paint.
Anyone ever replaced their floors? Any tips? Any recommendations on a paint?
Thanks,
Matt
I continued to rip out the carpet in the K5 today and I found some depressing stuff. First thing, there were 2 complete sets of carpet. The new carpet was on top of the old carpet and even worse all of that was on top of the original insulation/padding and the padding was wet which of course caused RUST!
See the pics below but the back half isn't that bad, it has some rust near the tailgate but nothing all the way through. The major rust is where the rear floor pans are or where the back passengers put their feet and also right where the door closes.
Today I took a grinder with a scotch pad and started grinding away. It came out okay but I just wanted to see what needed to be done. I know i'm going to need parts of new floor pans some welding and when it's all done i'll cover it in a Rust Bullet/Por-15 type paint.
Anyone ever replaced their floors? Any tips? Any recommendations on a paint?
Thanks,
Matt
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Consider yourself lucky... that doesn't look bad at all. A lot of guys have done repairs like this before though, do a search and read up on some tips. I'll be doing the same thing this summer, and mines 10 times worse than that.
Check out Ryokens guide to body work threads and read up.
Lots of good info on how to prep bare metal and such things.
Lots of good info on how to prep bare metal and such things.
mattrains
MRAINS
Day 2 of the "Rust Evaluation"
I took some 36 grit sanding pads on my grinder and removed the rest of the paint on the passenger side floor. First thing I learned is even if the paint looks fine there could still be rust underneath. I honestly thought of only grinding the areas that had exposed rust or bubbled paint but I am glad I went ahead and stripped it all. There were some places that looked perfect but after the sanding disc went over it I found some rust, nothing bad but rust none the less.
I have everything to the point now where I need some floor pans to measure what exactly I need to cut and what I can leave alone. The good news is the 2 pieces that need to be cut near the back of the floor are square so I could just patch them with some sheet steel but because of the damage so close to the door I will just go ahead and get a replacement pan.
I do have one question for any of you who have replaced your floor pans. Does the pan have the drip rail (piece that the door rubber fits over) on it or is that part of the rocker panel? I checked pictures but it's hard to tell.
I took pictures of everything below. The passenger side kick panels and under the rear window look great so I won't need to do anything there except seal it with POR-15 or the like.
I also checked the drivers side a little and everything looks great except where the floor and the piece under the rear window come together, it's gone completely but should be easy enough to fab up a replacement piece for it.
Anyway here are the pics from today.
I took some 36 grit sanding pads on my grinder and removed the rest of the paint on the passenger side floor. First thing I learned is even if the paint looks fine there could still be rust underneath. I honestly thought of only grinding the areas that had exposed rust or bubbled paint but I am glad I went ahead and stripped it all. There were some places that looked perfect but after the sanding disc went over it I found some rust, nothing bad but rust none the less.
I have everything to the point now where I need some floor pans to measure what exactly I need to cut and what I can leave alone. The good news is the 2 pieces that need to be cut near the back of the floor are square so I could just patch them with some sheet steel but because of the damage so close to the door I will just go ahead and get a replacement pan.
I do have one question for any of you who have replaced your floor pans. Does the pan have the drip rail (piece that the door rubber fits over) on it or is that part of the rocker panel? I checked pictures but it's hard to tell.
I took pictures of everything below. The passenger side kick panels and under the rear window look great so I won't need to do anything there except seal it with POR-15 or the like.
I also checked the drivers side a little and everything looks great except where the floor and the piece under the rear window come together, it's gone completely but should be easy enough to fab up a replacement piece for it.
Anyway here are the pics from today.
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TheBeast_88K5
Banned
Pfft.... I wish my floor looked that good!
You're doing a real nice job on the clean up!
The floor pan has a lip, the rocker has a lip on the outside and another on the inside, so you end up with three lips sandwiched together.
the middle one goes straight from the bottom of the rocker to the seal lip, helps the outside profile keep it's shape and not squish down when you step on this part.
the middle one goes straight from the bottom of the rocker to the seal lip, helps the outside profile keep it's shape and not squish down when you step on this part.
Day 2 of the "Rust Evaluation"
I took some 36 grit sanding pads on my grinder and removed the rest of the paint on the passenger side floor. First thing I learned is even if the paint looks fine there could still be rust underneath. I honestly thought of only grinding the areas that had exposed rust or bubbled paint but I am glad I went ahead and stripped it all. There were some places that looked perfect but after the sanding disc went over it I found some rust, nothing bad but rust none the less.
I have everything to the point now where I need some floor pans to measure what exactly I need to cut and what I can leave alone. The good news is the 2 pieces that need to be cut near the back of the floor are square so I could just patch them with some sheet steel but because of the damage so close to the door I will just go ahead and get a replacement pan.
I do have one question for any of you who have replaced your floor pans. Does the pan have the drip rail (piece that the door rubber fits over) on it or is that part of the rocker panel? I checked pictures but it's hard to tell.
I took pictures of everything below. The passenger side kick panels and under the rear window look great so I won't need to do anything there except seal it with POR-15 or the like.
I also checked the drivers side a little and everything looks great except where the floor and the piece under the rear window come together, it's gone completely but should be easy enough to fab up a replacement piece for it.
Anyway here are the pics from today.
Man talk about attention to detail. You are taking a really nice K5 and making it even better! Way to go
I wish I would have done that with my first k5 oh well. Atleast I did that to my dmax
I wish I would have done that with my first k5 oh well. Atleast I did that to my dmax
Looks better than mine! Im doing the same thing now. Both those rear corners are now cut out on mine. Waiting on some weld through primer (copperweld feom SEM) and im blasting and patching and por-15ing mine this weekend check out the last few posts on my build thread. Itll make. u feel mo better about ur floor
check out the last few posts on my build thread. Itll make. u feel mo better about ur floor
mattrains
MRAINS
I got the entire interior out today except the dash and side panels. I wanted to see exactly the condition of the floor.
It went well and everything looks okay, there is a need for some metal work but nothing major.
I'm keeping the entire build documented at www.ClassicK5.com now so if you want to read up on what I did today you can check it out there.
Have a great weekend and i'll be posting some more stuff tomorrow.
It went well and everything looks okay, there is a need for some metal work but nothing major.
I'm keeping the entire build documented at www.ClassicK5.com now so if you want to read up on what I did today you can check it out there.
Have a great weekend and i'll be posting some more stuff tomorrow.
Classic K5.com did not go trespassing to snap pictures of your lost rig....CK5 did....And CK5 demands equal rights and the same detail in updates that Classic K5 gets,
