Lost and Found - LS3 6L80 NP205 Full Frame Off

[mattrains]

I got the motor installed today with the Dirty Dingo mounts everything went together fairly easy.

There is still around an inch I can move the motor back to clear the cross member on the drivers side.

My question for Teck is how far back to place the mounts when you installed your motor?? See the pic below, mine are about half way and I still need to move them more. That willake the trans mount too far back.

 

[drew4x4]

based upon your top picture, the clearance between your main belt pulley and the front cross member looks huge!! mine is roughly about 4"... yours looks 6-7"?

 

[Teck]

These are the only ones I could find tonight.
I can get some better ones later.
Looks like my motor is pushed a little more forward then yours.
The part you are not looking at right now is the firewall.
I have very little room between the motor and the firewall and I do have 1" body life.

Pan clearance on front crossmember.


PM me and I will send you my number if you need to talk about all these issues.

 

[mattrains]

Drew what mounts are you using?

Teck yours looks like it sits higher than mine?? I'll send you a pm a little latee

 

[mattrains]

Hey Teck

How many beers can I buy you to measure from the bolt head in the picture to the furthest part of the slidable portion of your motor mount.

Pretty much measure how much more room you have to move the motor back on the mounts?

I'll be running the 1" body lift as well and don't want to mock everything up the have the body hitting the motor at the firewall.

 

[drew4x4]

my mounts are ORD competition mounts paired with DIY4x LS plate adapters. plus, what i did was bolt up the transmission to the transmission cross member, then set the engine in place, and welded my ORD mounts to the angle mounts. that way the transmission is set in the exact same place, and everything is adjusted off of that. going from a th350 to a 4l60e is +2" in length, going from a 400sbc to an lq4 is -2" in length, and using an advanced adapter plate between the 4l60e and my np205 is +2" in length, so my engine is pushed forward 2" overall.

 

[Teck]

my mounts are ORD competition mounts paired with DIY4x LS plate adapters. plus, what i did was bolt up the transmission to the transmission cross member, then set the engine in place, and welded my ORD mounts to the angle mounts. that way the transmission is set in the exact same place, and everything is adjusted off of that. going from a th350 to a 4l60e is +2" in length, going from a 400sbc to an lq4 is -2" in length, and using an advanced adapter plate between the 4l60e and my np205 is +2" in length, so my engine is pushed forward 2" overall.

This is like the set up I have. I went from a 383sb,700r4,205 set up. To a LS,4l65e w/ an advanced adapter to 205 kit, to np205.
1 thing I had to deal with is that my transfer case crossmember is lowered almost 2" to fix drive line angles. This does tilt the motor downward which did contributed to the top of the motor being closer to the firewall.
I did change to an LS set up after my frame was done so I did the research so it would all fit without having to move the transfer case crossmember and building a new rear driveshaft

 

[Teck]

Hopfully this is what you asked for.

 

[mattrains]

Perfect. Thank You.

 

[mattrains]

It is finally in and sitting on its own.

Teck quick question. Can you take a pic of how you bolted the trans cross member to your frame? The dingo mounts are 1" back like yours but I had to rotate my tans cross member 180° and can only get 1 bolt in because its in backwards to make room for the longer trans.

 

[Teck]

It's in the stock postion I never in bolted the crossmember

 

[Teck]

Man I can remember when I had just a frame painted. There is a lot of work to do but it will be worth it in the end. I want to see this one get done

 

[mattrains]

Thanks Teck!

Here's a quick update. I've had the move the cross member back 1.5" because I guess the 6l80 is a little longer?

Instead of drilling new holes in the frame I am modding my cross member by moving the bolt hole section back and welding in some new plates to make it look factory.

Here are some.pics of the start. I'll have more soon as I clean it up and finish it.

You can see in this one how I plan to just move this entire section back and weld everything back together then fill the empty spaces with plate so it will look factory. It gives me my 1.5" of extra length and I can bolt the cross member into the factory holes.

 

[82355]

Seems like a lot of extra work. Is there a reason you didn't want to drill four holes? Will your crossmember interfere with the drive shaft?

Martin

 

[mattrains]

The frame starts to spread at the cross member and there are already 4 holes on each side so it would look like swiss cheese if I drilled 4 more holes and where they would need to be would drill through current holes and make it impossible to bolt up.

This way it will look factory.

 

[mattrains]

I put my passenger side accessory drive on today along with my water pump and some other final torque downs.

I really like the Holley accessory drive unit. It came out nice and is very easy to install.

I plan on having my driver side steering unit on next week but I want to have it sandblasted first.

 

[drew4x4]

nice man, its looking really good.

 

[y5mgisi]

Super cool!

 

[mattrains]

I had some time today to install my new steering gear and my ORD steering support kit. The gear came from redhead steering out of Seattle as they were rated higher than PSC and AGR. Should be a vast improvement over my old sloppy one.

I put on a 2WD unit to go with my crossover steering kit. Can't wait to get it done!

Here are a few pics.

I've also picked a new color. It's a jeep color called Granite Crystal Metallic

 

[mattrains]

Fuel tank installed.